Cycling Tank With Rb Piranha

You really don't need anything special if you are comfortable watching your fish. If you see any signs of stress, a simple 80%+ water change will almost always put things to right. That is not intended to discourage you from getting proper test equipment but is more an endorsement of the water changes you are doing using the fish's symptomatic responses as the determining factor in your water changes. If you can get good enough at watching your fish for adverse reactions, you can actually get to the point where many of us were a few years ago. We knew that something was wrong by watching our fish but had no idea what the details of their chemical conditions were. Instead we thought that people who recognized the symptoms in their fish and did large water changes were the gurus of our day.

Both the local fish store AND the corporate pet store were sold out of the liquid testers. I purchased one in advance and should be here in a few days. All I do is watch the tank. Sometimes I dont even realize that im doing it. I will be doing another 80% water change tomorrow.
 
For the mean time, I am still using the all in one test strip until the master tester is back in stock (should be able to pick that up in 3-4 days?). All of the levels are in the safe zone, for now. I planned on doing a 80% water change tomorrow but I suppose that will depend on what the test strips read tomorrow (or if I notice new behavior from the red bellys). Until then.....THANKS AGAIN TO YOU ALL!!
 
Well, the RB's are still alive. I must be doing something right (thanks to everyones help!) I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good water conditioner? I am currently using "Tetra Aqua, New with bioextract." Is this a good one to stick with? Suggestions?
 
Well, the RB's are still alive. I must be doing something right (thanks to everyones help!) I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good water conditioner? I am currently using "Tetra Aqua, New with bioextract." Is this a good one to stick with? Suggestions?

thats the 1 i use and i havent ever had a problem with it
 
Luckily, conditioner, being one of the few LFS items with a true and usual need (assuming you want to lower risk) also happens to be a product bottled by many manufacturers but where beginners will generally be ok with whatever bottle they first bring home. It may not be the best choice in the long run but its usually ok that first time.

The discussions on TFF generally center around two topics:
1) the concentration
2) the extra features

The vast majority of suppliers use sodium thiosulfate as the chemical to take care of chlorine and chloramines (and more or less all of them take care of either these days) so the behavior is pretty similar for all of them I believe. This chemical does its neutralizing job pretty much as fast as it can spread in the container its been added to. Since neutralizing chlorine or chloramine (whichever your water authority has) is by far the main job of a conditioner, you might as well use up whatever you bought because it was first recommended.

Hobbyists who keep tanks for years and those who have lots of tanks begin to pay attention to the cost-per-gallon because of the expense of the product. To really compare costs, you need to know how much of the product is needed for each gallon or liter of water treated.

By "extra features" I mean the temporary neutralizing of ammonia and nitrite and the binding of heavy metals, although there can be other things like slime-coat maintenance. My reading over the years leads me to believe there can be quality difference among products with respect to the more important features of temporary ammonia and nitrite neutralizing and the binding of heavy metals, but I do not have references to back this up.

The most common advice you'll see here in the beginner section is to us Seachem Prime, due to its high concentration with resulting low cost per water unit. My one bottom line recommendation is to definately use Seachem Prime for the first two years as a beginner, both for its savings due to concentration and also because I believe the extra features to be of very high quality. After that, if one is still thinking about the concentration question, the various pond dechlor products should also be compared as some of these have high concentrations. After two years the typical biofilter is much more robust and probably there will be less need for the extra mini-cycling help the extra features provide. Recommended dosing for beginners is 1.5x to 2x whatever the instructions say but not more than 2x (the main function of dealing with the chlorine compounds is all about lowering risk, and the risk can vary depending on what local water sources do. Sometimes local tap water is "shocked" with large extra doses of chlorine/chloramine.)

There are a few aquarium web sites out there that have kept written reviews of various conditioners over the years.

~~waterdrop~~
 

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