Clowdy Water

[OB1Hill]

please help cant see the plants or fish the tank has gone black ?

 

[WILDER]

Size of tank in gallons or litres.
How many fish and which type.
Water stats in ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph.
How long has the tank been set up.

Do you mean the water gone black.
What substrate are you using.

 

[OB1Hill]

6ft tank ,250L, 20 neons, bog wood, 10 plants, eco pro 300 ex filter.
if you take some water out it looks clear in a glass but you can't see though the tank it looks as if i have no light on. But you can't look at the bulb its a 58w 5ft arcadia freshwater lamp. The tank has been set up for 10 days and was set up using safe start after 7days i did a 50%water change and then it was clearish but today has gone dark again please help? PH 6.8 No2 is 0 No3 is 0

 

[WILDER]

Your tanks still cycling.
It will take ages with just the neons as there only little waste producers.

I would take the neons back to the lfs as there very sensitive to water quality, and need mature tanks.
Then do a fishless cycle and read up on cycling a tank and the nitrogen cycle.


http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264

 

[OB1Hill]

Your tanks still cycling.
It will take ages with just the neons as there only little waste producers.

I would take the neons back to the lfs as there very sensitive to water quality, and need mature tanks.
Then do a fishless cycle and read up on cycling a tank and the nitrogen cycle.


[URL="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264"]http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264[/URL]

Thanks but i only had 20 neons when it went dark but today i put 20 zebras and 4 35mm angelfish

 

[waterdrop]

That puts you in a "Fish-In Cycling Situation" and you'll want to switch to reading the article about that. You may be able to save them if you follow the fish-in cycling procedures. The cloudy bacterial bloom is not significant, it will go away. What is significant is the need to hold ammonia to always be at or below 0.25ppm and nitrite(NO2) to always be at or below 0.25ppm as measured by a good liquid-reagent based test kit. It generally takes about a month to get the filter cycled and fairly large water changes may be necessary, sometimes daily.

You have to be a bit of a detective to figure out the percentage and frequency of water changes that will keep the toxins below 0.25ppm until you can get back to the house, test, and possibly do another water change. Ammonia, even in small amounts, causes permanent gill damage and either shortens the fishes life or ends it. Nitrite(NO2), even in small amounts, causes suffocation via damage to the fish blood hemoglobin molecule, causing permanent nerve damage, again leading to a shortened fish life or death. This is why its preferred to have a fully operating biofilter -prior- to introducing fish or why you want to hold those two levels so low via water changes.

~~waterdrop~~