Change To Api

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BlueDragon

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I've deside to change my water testing kit to the API one that most people on here seem to love. Maybe I'll have better luck with my tank if I do. But what I'd like to know is are there any more important tests than others? I'm in a Fish-in cycle so it's important that I know where thing are at, but I know now what my PH, KH and GH are and they never shift. Some people have mentioned that you only really need an ammonia test and a Nitrite one, so could I get away with the same?

The thing is that I really can't be spnding seventy quid on a test kit, I just haven't got that kind of money. And some of the tests don't seem important, like copper tests etc. And often they don't include an ammonia test either : / It's a bit confusing really.

Can I just get away with testing for Ammonia and Nitrite now I know what my other results are?
 
you don't need to spend £70.....the full API kit can be purchased on eBay for about £25.
 
I can't buy anything off ebay. For some reason they won't ever let me join : /

But I'll have a lookie-see anyways.

So I still need the full kit then, I can't just buy the most important tests now?
 
Is this what I should get?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340008336&sr=8-1
 
I'm using the API master test kit after reading that most people use these. I'm not that impressed with it i must say. Apart from the leaky caps on the tubes there are also other issues.
The Nitrate test is widely regarded as inacurate, and a pain to use.
The ph system of two range tests could be better, as anyone with near neutral water finds the result at the high extreem with the low test, and the low end of the high range test. The colour chart is also open to too much interpretation, as the colour differences between levels is not great enough.
The ammonia test at below 0.25ppm is impossible to read accurately. When I feel that the tube looks a little greener, I test with another brand to confirm that in fact I actually have a zero reading.
The Nitrite test seems the only one that's easy to use and establish a meaningful result.
I will not buy this kit again, and if i were in your situation i would buy just another brands Ammonia and Nitrite individually, and you can add ph gh kh and Nitrate as and when.
 
Hmm, me thinks I might have been looking at the wrong test before : /

Explains why it was so expencive! X )

Fish4, I'm sorry to hear you've been having problems with yours. But I think the Nitrate tests are always the most inacurate no matter what test kit you have. It's not the company's fault I dont think. The good news is that the Nirite one is more acurate and that's also the more important test out of the two. And I get the ammonia being a bit of a pain, it's doing that inbetween-colours thing with me too at the minuet.

I think I'll still give this one a go first, see what I think of it. Thanks peoples : )
 
I'm using the API master test kit after reading that most people use these. I'm not that impressed with it i must say. Apart from the leaky caps on the tubes there are also other issues.
The Nitrate test is widely regarded as inacurate, and a pain to use.
The ph system of two range tests could be better, as anyone with near neutral water finds the result at the high extreem with the low test, and the low end of the high range test. The colour chart is also open to too much interpretation, as the colour differences between levels is not great enough.
The ammonia test at below 0.25ppm is impossible to read accurately. When I feel that the tube looks a little greener, I test with another brand to confirm that in fact I actually have a zero reading.
The Nitrite test seems the only one that's easy to use and establish a meaningful result.
I will not buy this kit again, and if i were in your situation i would buy just another brands Ammonia and Nitrite individually, and you can add ph gh kh and Nitrate as and when.
All of these points are valid. However for what we need to know the test doesn't have to be extremely accurate. For Fishless cycling you just need your ammonia between 1-4pmm which is plenty accurate for this. If you have fish in your tank it only matters that ammonia and nitrite are 0 so if you have any color other than 0ppm then it is time for a water change. Same for the nitrate test. Rather than trying to match exact colors on nitrate just think of it as yellow is good, orange is caution, red means water change. As for PH, the exact number isn't so important as just making sure it isn't changing so if your test is 7.6 on the low and 7.4 on the high just assume it is 7.5 and go with it. As long as it doesn't plummet into the 6's or shoot into the 8's your fish should be fine. Rather than thinking of it as an exact figure test you have to treat it as more of a estimation. I am sure that there are better kits out there but they either cost more or are harder to find. Just because everyone uses this kit doesn't make it the best. But it is good enough for most peoples purposes.
 

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