Black stuff or mold on my honeyworth. How to get rid of it?

Jean1984

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Hey Guys,

I have black stuff or mold on my honeyworth and have no clue how to get rid of it. My ph is around 7.0. ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are at 0ppm. I have like 14 sunburst wag platy in my fish tank. All sizes as they reproduce big time. I have a 20 gallons fish tank.

I would like to remove the black stuff on my honeyworth... Should I take it off the fish tank and rince it off or it will come back?

Thanks much.
 

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That is black brush algae. Like all "problem" algae, it occurs when the balance between the light and nutrients is out. You can only keep it under control by establishing (or re-establishing) the balance.

Light involves intensity, spectrum, and duration. Nutrients includes fish foods (after passing through the fish), water changes (replenishing "hard" minerals perhaps), and plant fertilizers (if used). These must be in balance for the plants (species and numbers determine the level of light and nutrients). We can look at this if you can provide data on the light, and any plant additives (fertilizers).

This algae is very difficult if not impossible to remove from plant leaves. You must deal with the balance; the aim is to stop it from spreading/increasing. I have dealt with this algae a few times over the years. I have not had it for five or maybe six years now, after I got the light/nutrient balance established.
 
That is black brush algae. Like all "problem" algae, it occurs when the balance between the light and nutrients is out. You can only keep it under control by establishing (or re-establishing) the balance.

Light involves intensity, spectrum, and duration. Nutrients includes fish foods (after passing through the fish), water changes (replenishing "hard" minerals perhaps), and plant fertilizers (if used). These must be in balance for the plants (species and numbers determine the level of light and nutrients). We can look at this if you can provide data on the light, and any plant additives (fertilizers).

This algae is very difficult if n
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That is black brush algae. Like all "problem" algae, it occurs when the balance between the light and nutrients is out. You can only keep it under control by establishing (or re-establishing) the balance.

Light involves intensity, spectrum, and duration. Nutrients includes fish foods (after passing through the fish), water changes (replenishing "hard" minerals perhaps), and plant fertilizers (if used). These must be in balance for the plants (species and numbers determine the level of light and nutrients). We can look at this if you can provide data on the light, and any plant additives (fertilizers).

This algae is very difficult if not impossible to remove from plant leaves. You must deal with the balance; the aim is to stop it from spreading/increasing. I have dealt with this algae a few times over the years. I have not had it for five or maybe six years now, after I got the light/nutrient balance established.

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That is black brush algae. Like all "problem" algae, it occurs when the balance between the light and nutrients is out. You can only keep it under control by establishing (or re-establishing) the balance.

Light involves intensity, spectrum, and duration. Nutrients includes fish foods (after passing through the fish), water changes (replenishing "hard" minerals perhaps), and plant fertilizers (if used). These must be in balance for the plants (species and numbers determine the level of light and nutrients). We can look at this if you can provide data on the light, and any plant additives (fertilizers).

This algae is very difficult if not impossible to remove from plant leaves. You must deal with the balance; the aim is to stop it from spreading/increasing. I have dealt with this algae a few times over the years. I have not had it for five or maybe six years now, after I got the light/nutrient balance established.

ot impossible to remove from plant leaves. You must deal with the balance; the aim is to stop it from spreading/increasing. I have dealt with this algae a few times over the years. I have not had it for five or maybe six years now, after I got the light/nutrient balance established.
These are the products I am using for my fish tank. My light in the fish tank is working on a timer from 0800hrs to 1700hrs so 9hrs of daylight from the tank everyday.
 

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These are the products I am using for my fish tank. My light in the fish tank is working on a timer from 0800hrs to 1700hrs so 9hrs of daylight from the tank everyday.

Nothing dangerous here, just be careful not to overdose the liquids. The Flourish Tabs are very good, one next to the sword plants, replace every three months. Won't do much for other types of plants, but incredible with swords and large substrate-rooted plants. And the nutrients do not get into the upper water column, which means they do not benefit algae.

I was using the Trace but stopped. You might find the Flourish Comprehensive to be adequate.

I would reduce the light from nine hours to eight; if after say a month the algae is still increasing, reduce another hour to seven. I got my tanks' balance sorted out with 7 hours of tank light, and ensuring the daylight entering via the windows was blocked completely in summer. My tanks are in a dedicated fish room, so it is easy to block window light. But just this alone made a significant difference with the algae. Every summer it sprang up again, and after two summers I realized it was the increased daylight (longer and stronger) coming into the room even with blinds. Heavy drapes completely blocking the daylight solved this.
 

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