Betta With Fin Rot

Get you a good link to finrot and she knows what she talking about.

You must always increase aeration with meds no wonder he was finding it hard to breath.

Ok found the link but I must of missed this before she does actually the same thing fungus eliminator and tetracycline.
Still don't get why you have to use the fungus med with tetracycline, when tetracycline a gram and pos med.
<a href="http://www.petfish.net/kb/entry/335/" target="_blank">http://www.petfish.net/kb/entry/335/</a>

I have already been to that website, but thank you. This link doesn't mention anything about dosage. I was using the Betta Talk guide for a 1 gallon jar. I don't know what dose I am suppose to use (or how often to change the water) for a 10 gallon. Neither of these sites mention it. The instructions on the package of these medications are different from each other. And different from what the Betta Talk site advised.
 
Tetracycline dosage is usally a tablet to 10 gals will check for you.

Quick Medication Dosing Tip
Since most medication dosing directions are meant for larger tanks and some medications come in tablet or capsule form, it can be difficult to dose a small container. There is a trick to doing this.

If your medication calls for one capsule to 10 gallons, grab a small container that can hold water. Using a measuring spoon, measure out 10 teaspoons or tablespoons full of water into the container (it doesn't matter which you use as long as you use the same unit of measurement the whole way through). Dump the capsule or crush the tablet into the measured water. Then dispense the medicated water into your isolation container - if it is a 1 gallon container, one teaspoon/tablespoon will be the correct medication dosage. This method works for any size treatment container, just be aware that most medications lose effectiveness after 24 hours in water so you will have to discard any unused medication using this method.
 
What type of tetracycline are you using it it tablet, capsule, powder, or gel.
Medicated food would of been far easy if the fish was still eating.
http://www.terrificpets.com/pet_supplies/f...tion/100384.asp


I would follow your med instructions.


Taken from the link.
Simply follow the dosing directions on the medication, keeping in mind that since you are treating in a small container you will have to do full water changes and add new medication instead of doing the partial changes many medications specify.



Go to the betta section and tell them you are having problems with the dosage and water changes.
Plenty of experienced members over there who will help you out.
 
What type of tetracycline are you using it it tablet, capsule, powder, or gel.
Medicated food would of been far easy if the fish was still eating.
[URL="http://www.terrificpets.com/pet_supplies/f...tion/100384.asp"]http://www.terrificpets.com/pet_supplies/f...tion/100384.asp[/URL]


I would follow your med instructions.


Taken from the link.
Simply follow the dosing directions on the medication, keeping in mind that since you are treating in a small container you will have to do full water changes and add new medication instead of doing the partial changes many medications specify.



Go to the betta section and tell them you are having problems with the dosage and water changes.
Plenty of experienced members over there who will help you out.


I am using capsules. I decided to go with what it says on the package. I will have a look at the website, thank you. :)
 
Oh and, I think I was right about the white specks being the TC or Fungus Eliminator sticking to his scales. I see a powdery substance stick to him every so often, when he swims. I'll let you know how things turn out once the fin rot treatment is complete.
 
I disolve meds in a jug of tank water and stir it well till the meds have disolved then add to the tank.
 
Just giving an update on my Betta. I stopped treating him with medication after nearly 3 weeks. It seemed to stress him more than anything. He appears to be doing better now. He eats. He is still in his 10 gallon filtered/heated hospital tank. The temperature is kept at 80F and I added 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt. He also has a bubbler. Here is a close up of him that I took today. His dorsal rays are continuing to grow slowly. However he still has white on the tips of a few fins. Which I think is fin rot. His color is also not as vibrant.

7.jpg
 
Keep water quality in tip top condition.
Also soak some flakes in garlic juice it boost the fish immune system helping them to fight infection.
 
He stopped eating again. It's been 3 days. He spends most of his time hidden in a decoration and comes up for air once in a while then goes back down. He also lies on his side. He still has white on some of the tips of his rays, is that fin rot? I assumed it was but on other sites I read that is new fin growth? I think I saw some black around his dorsal rays where his fins started growing. I have been testing the water and doing water changes when needed to keep ammonia at 0. What should I do?
 
Black on fins can be ammonia burns that are healing.
Laying to onside and being lethagic and not eating can mean bacterial infection.
Dosn't sound good to be honest.
Going to read your thread from the start again to refresh my memory.

The meds havent done anything and with using more than one could of weaken his immune system.
How long is it since you last use a med on the fish.
 
Black on fins can be ammonia burns that are healing.
Laying to onside and being lethargic and not eating can mean bacterial infection.
Dosn't sound good to be honest.
Going to read your thread from the start again to refresh my memory.

The meds havent done anything and with using more than one could of weaken his immune system.
How long is it since you last use a med on the fish.

It's 1 week and 5 days since I last used the medication. I decided to try Triple Sulfa today.
He was lying on the bottom of the tank on his side. He looked dead. :(

But since I added the Triple Sulfa he is not on the bottom anymore. He still won't eat though.
I tried feeding him frozen blood worms, flakes, pellets and freeze dried blood worms. I will try
this treatment and hope that he gets better.
 
With bacterial infectons they stop eating.

Can you post your water stats please.


<a href="http://www.petsforum.com/cis-fishnet/afm/G29060.htm" target="_blank">http://www.petsforum.com/cis-fishnet/afm/G29060.htm</a>

Taken from the link.

The third type of infection produced by Aeromonas is by no means the least. This form is often the most virulent (potent) and can be rapidly fatal. This insidious form does not produce any noticeable external ulcers. The most notable feature is a behavioral change in which the infected fish generally become listless and lethargic. Some fish may lose color or appear darker. The fish do not feed, frequently seem off balance and may sink to the bottom laying on their sides. The course of the disease is rapid, and by the time the behavioral changes are noticed, the entire population of a tank may succumb, sometimes in a day or so. This is an internal infection, with the bacteria being found in the kidneys and blood of these fish. The bacteria produce potent toxins that account for the severity of the disease.
 
With bacterial infectons they stop eating.

Can you post your water stats please.


<a href="http://www.petsforum.com/cis-fishnet/afm/G29060.htm" target="_blank">http://www.petsforum.com/cis-fishnet/afm/G29060.htm</a>

Taken from the link.

The third type of infection produced by Aeromonas is by no means the least. This form is often the most virulent (potent) and can be rapidly fatal. This insidious form does not produce any noticeable external ulcers. The most notable feature is a behavioral change in which the infected fish generally become listless and lethargic. Some fish may lose color or appear darker. The fish do not feed, frequently seem off balance and may sink to the bottom laying on their sides. The course of the disease is rapid, and by the time the behavioral changes are noticed, the entire population of a tank may succumb, sometimes in a day or so. This is an internal infection, with the bacteria being found in the kidneys and blood of these fish. The bacteria produce potent toxins that account for the severity of the disease.

0ppm ammonia
0ppm nitrite
5ppm nitrate
6.7 ph

I think it is a bacterial infection. The question is, will Triple Sulfa do anything for it? I don't know what more to do.
 
I just found him up in a vertical position. Pointing straight up, sort of just floating. I tapped him and he darted away then swam around and went into a silk plant and started doing the same thing (floating upwards). On the Betta talk side they said to use Tetracycline or Triple Sulfa with Jungle Fungus Eliminator or Kanamycin for bacterial infections. But they don't sell Kanamycin in stores. I can only order it online. I used Triple Sulfa on it's own. I am afraid to use Jungle Fungus Eliminator because last time I did with Tetracycline it was stressing him so much and he was struggling to breathe. It also made this thick brownish foam/paste inside the tank.

I don't see black on his fins anymore. I think it was just a shadow. Also the white tips seem to be going away and his dorsal rays are growing.
 
The triple sulfa med fine but not so sure he will get better when you have already used tetracycline.
Bless him good luck and let us know how he gets on.
 

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