Beginning My Fishless Cycle - Please Advise

[blagger]

Thanks eagles, I'll do it in a table format in the first post as others have done. I'll do the next test this time tomorrow.

 

[blagger]

Just done a quick ammonia test an hour ago, sitting at 4ppm, so I did enter the correct amount!

My 300w heaters settings are a bit poor, had it set at 28C, managed to get hold of a couple of thermometers and they were showing 24C. After gradually increasing it throughout the day I now have the setting at 32C on the heater and the tank has warmed up to 26.5C. Going to leave it like that over night and see what I have in the morning. Need to buy another 300w heater as I don't think the single will be able to hold the temperature up.

 

[KittyKat]

I'm cycling at moment and I want my cycle to run as quickly as possible so I want all my parameters to be optimum. Your ph of 7.6 will work but is better above 8.  As eagle said you will do a large water change before introducing fish.  Your fish selection should be around your normal ph.   During my cycle the ph crashed to 6.4.  The day before it was 8.  So it's something that should be monitored during your cycle or it might stall. That's when some bicarb comes in handy.

A pH crash will harm the cycle more than it would be slowed by having a slightly lower pH, so it is safer to just monitor the KH instead of dosing bicarbonate of soda blindly.

As to the fish flakes, I've read that several times on cycling. No actual evidence just people's experience. As most people have fish flakes then why not use.

Well there is actual evidence that rotting fish food produces an unreliable quantity of ammonia and who wants to do a full gravel clean before adding fish? It is possible that some minerals which are added/included in the fish food may be beneficial to the bacteria, but ammonia is always NH[sub]3[/sub], regardless of the source.

My 300w heaters settings are a bit poor, had it set at 28C, managed to get hold of a couple of thermometers and they were showing 24C. After gradually increasing it throughout the day I now have the setting at 32C on the heater and the tank has warmed up to 26.5C. Going to leave it like that over night and see what I have in the morning. Need to buy another 300w heater as I don't think the single will be able to hold the temperature up.

What about just placing your heater horizontally so that the water from the filter outlet flows over it? When heaters are used in a vertical position with no direct flow over them, they can be heating only the water within a couple of centimetres of them.

 

[blagger]

What about just placing your heater horizontally so that the water from the filter outlet flows over it? When heaters are used in a vertical position with no direct flow over them, they can be heating only the water within a couple of centimetres of them.

Not possible, well is possible if I get an extension lead. My spray bar is on the other end of the tank so the heater won't reach over there with the standard plug lead. I have the heater placed next to the intake at the moment, so it should have a constant water change there. All is ok now though as the thermometer is reading 28.9C, heater is set at 33C. I've ordered another 300w heater with a longer lead so will place this one on the other side of the tank. Should sort everything out and not overload the single heater currently.

Will update you with test results tonight.

BTW I haven't chucked any baking soda in.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Another option is to put the heater on the bias (diagonally). This also for more contact with water caused by the combination of current from the filter flow and natural convection currents.

 

[Xraymark]

Hi kittyKat
I did say monitor the ph and never advised using bicarb blindly. Also did state use a pinch of fish flakes which shouldn't involve a gravel clean.

 

[blagger]

OK, day 2 results:

13-12-11 - PH: 8.4 // Ammonia: 4ppm // Nitrate: 5ppm // Nitrite: 0ppm

I haven't added anything and the pH has gone up from 7.6 to 8.4. So no idea whats going on there, probably just circulation of water and maybe the sand has effected it?

I have turned the heater around and it is now sitting at a 45 degree angle.

No other changes, does this mean the established media failed to work or easy it way too early?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Too soon to say. A lot of times established media can pause when it is disturbed too much. It usually bounces back quickly. But, the bacteria have a whole new set of parameters that they need to adjust to.

The pH rise is probably due to CO2 and other gasses coming out of the water. Did you test (or could you) your tap water after it sits out for 24 hours? This will give you a better gauge of what your true tap water conditions are. Do you know the hardness of the water? This information can help you in determining what fish you should be looking at getting once this is finished.

 

[blagger]

Thanks. I did have the water from the tap in the tank for 24 hours before I did my first base test. After that base test I added the API Tap Safe and Ammonia.

You can view the hardness of the water in my area here: http/www.cambridge-water.co.uk/uploads/waterhardness/Coton.pdf

I want to go for African Cichlids, hope I still can!

 

[Zikofski]

hello blagger i have had the same problem as you with you heater with mine, it is set at 30 and is at 26, my heater was bought used and have moved the filter into position so it blows the heat around the tank to no effect

 

[KittyKat]

You can view the hardness of the water in my area here: http/www.cambridge-water.co.uk/uploads/waterhardness/Coton.pdf

I want to go for African Cichlids, hope I still can!

That's hard enough that African cichlids are the best choice. If you want Malawi Mbuna, you will probably need at least twice as much rock again, but you are probably fine for peacocks as it is. For other types of Rift Lake cichlids, ask for more specific advice.

You may still need to add some crushed coral to the filter if your KH starts to drop.

 

[blagger]

You can view the hardness of the water in my area here: http/www.cambridge-water.co.uk/uploads/waterhardness/Coton.pdf

I want to go for African Cichlids, hope I still can!

That's hard enough that African cichlids are the best choice. If you want Malawi Mbuna, you will probably need at least twice as much rock again, but you are probably fine for peacocks as it is. For other types of Rift Lake cichlids, ask for more specific advice.

You may still need to add some crushed coral to the filter if your KH starts to drop.

Is it really important to get a KH test kit, don't really want to fork out on one if I don't need to (mind you its not that expesnive!)

I've put some pictures up in the African Cichlid section, got quite a few replies and nobody stated that it was not enough rock. I'll soon be sorting out a fish selection and posting in that section again, will definetly ask if I have enough rock for my selction of malawi. Best to get it in there first than have fish ripping each other apart.

 

[blagger]

Just a quick update, been testing only the ammonia over the last couple of days, still reading same 4ppm.

I've just managed to get hold of another complete filter with established media in it and I have that running now in the tank as well. Hopefully that will speed things up.

Have also got the top filtration system in the tank running so according to manufacturer I am now turning over 2900l/h. The top filtration has room for another filter pump which I will add in a few weeks, will take it to 4700l/h (according to manufacturer figures).

Since I have turned the heater around 45 degress the temperature has shot up, so have now reduced the heater a few notches. Sitting at 29C.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

That all sounds good. Just a waiting game now.

 

[blagger]

OK did a test this morning and seeing some change:

pH is still 8.4
Ammonia has gone down to 2ppm from 4ppm
Nitrite is showing 0.25ppm (previously 0)
Nitrate is showing between 5 and 10 (previously 5)