Been To P@h.

It would be any species of betta, preferably a plakat because i like their short fins.

~AJ~
 
Assaye...Without knowing the species of Betta, how do you know the plants will tear the fins? (Just been made aware that there is a video, which I cannot see, so ignore this statement.)

If this was my little project, I'd get an 18*12*12 tank custom built or one from clear seal, a fluval U2 filter, a 25 watt heater and a desk lamp, you could do it for under £50, I'd fill it with live plants and some aquatic compost, and put a Betta in, then I would just leave it, no water changes, this is known as the low tech/ walstad method and it works with good effect, obviously if you're new to plants then you may not want to try this, but it is an easy method to use in my opinion.

U2 is a pretty heavy duty filter for a little tank =/

Interested in hearing how the walstad method gets around the issue of mineral depleation in the water and a steady rise in parasites and pathogens that exist in the water? I know the plants handle the ammonia and nitrite with filter as back-up and turnover, but does it work for all aspects of fishkeeping rather than just "the big three" chemicals?

And yes, it was for a long finned male betta splendens in a vid. If misscosmo wants a PK, then it might be OK but IMO, should still avoid plastic. My PKs still have very delicate fins, even if they are short, and they have both managed to damage their fins without there being sharp objects in the tank so I wouldn't tempt fate by adding some.
 
The minerals are replaced by the aquatic compost slowly over time, it can also take on excess nutrients from food because it has a high cation exchange capacity, and then release them slowly back into the water column. Parasites and pathogens shouldn't be present if you buy good stock.

The walstad method removes ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, if that is what you mean by the big 3.
 
The minerals are replaced by the aquatic compost slowly over time, it can also take on excess nutrients from food because it has a high cation exchange capacity, and then release them slowly back into the water column. Parasites and pathogens shouldn't be present if you buy good stock.

The walstad method removes ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, if that is what you mean by the big 3.


hmmmmmm build up of pathogens and parasites where do they come from then ?
scot :)

From what I understand, there is a natural level of micro-organisms in the water which when you have healthy stock, do not cause sickness because the stock is robust enough to immediately fight it off. However, if the stock get stressed and/or the levels of those micro-organisms rise too high, the fish start getting sick.
 
Where did you hear this? Got a link?

Surely the Walstad method wouldn't work if this is the case, yet there are many people using that method with great success.
 
Got another fish vid and some more pics from a different P@H.

DSC02270.jpg

These are rubber plants and are very soft. Would these be ok for betta's? If not i will get real plants.

DSC02269.jpg

This tank is 17litres. I think it would be very nice as a shrimp tank.



Just a little vid of the fish. Don't think i need any of these identifying.
Sorry for the bad camera work, my camera is bad and my hands shake alot.

~AJ~
 
Where did you hear this? Got a link?

Surely the Walstad method wouldn't work if this is the case, yet there are many people using that method with great success.

No, I don't have a link. It's something I have heard from many fishkeepers on many forums.

I can appareciate that the Walstad method may work - I've been interested in giving it a go myself - but I'd be interested in knowing if people get cycles of disease in mature tanks that they migh not attribute to a build up of pathogens. If this doesn't happen despite no water changes then it implies that the method has a way od dealing with the build up or that the build is is not as significant as people have lead me to believe.

Misscosmo - that little tank would be amazing for a shrimp tank. P@H currently sell an 8 litre Dymax IQ3s that would make very, very pretty shrimp tanks. Awesome filtration as well - they have so much space for filter media! Almost the entire back of the tank. Pity they say you can keep White Clouds in them though :angry:

The rubber corals are fine for decoration - too soft to pose much threat to the bettas fins - but they'll do nothing for the betta as they are not large or soft enough to play and hide in. If you got them you'd need loads of extra silk/live plants.
 
Where did you hear this? Got a link?

Surely the Walstad method wouldn't work if this is the case, yet there are many people using that method with great success.

No, I don't have a link. It's something I have heard from many fishkeepers on many forums.

I can appareciate that the Walstad method may work - I've been interested in giving it a go myself - but I'd be interested in knowing if people get cycles of disease in mature tanks that they migh not attribute to a build up of pathogens. If this doesn't happen despite no water changes then it implies that the method has a way od dealing with the build up or that the build is is not as significant as people have lead me to believe.

Could you quote what others have said? without reputable links from them how do you know their information is accurate, pathogens have to be there for diseases to be caused, so healthy stock should present no problems unless they're introduced.
 
Can we stay on topic please? I don't want to sound arrogant but can't you PM each other instead of using a thread made by someone?

~AJ~
 

Most reactions

Back
Top