Assaye...Without knowing the species of Betta, how do you know the plants will tear the fins? (Just been made aware that there is a video, which I cannot see, so ignore this statement.)
If this was my little project, I'd get an 18*12*12 tank custom built or one from clear seal, a fluval U2 filter, a 25 watt heater and a desk lamp, you could do it for under £50, I'd fill it with live plants and some aquatic compost, and put a Betta in, then I would just leave it, no water changes, this is known as the low tech/ walstad method and it works with good effect, obviously if you're new to plants then you may not want to try this, but it is an easy method to use in my opinion.
The minerals are replaced by the aquatic compost slowly over time, it can also take on excess nutrients from food because it has a high cation exchange capacity, and then release them slowly back into the water column. Parasites and pathogens shouldn't be present if you buy good stock.
The walstad method removes ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, if that is what you mean by the big 3.
hmmmmmm build up of pathogens and parasites where do they come from then ?
scot![]()
Where did you hear this? Got a link?
Surely the Walstad method wouldn't work if this is the case, yet there are many people using that method with great success.
Where did you hear this? Got a link?
Surely the Walstad method wouldn't work if this is the case, yet there are many people using that method with great success.
No, I don't have a link. It's something I have heard from many fishkeepers on many forums.
I can appareciate that the Walstad method may work - I've been interested in giving it a go myself - but I'd be interested in knowing if people get cycles of disease in mature tanks that they migh not attribute to a build up of pathogens. If this doesn't happen despite no water changes then it implies that the method has a way od dealing with the build up or that the build is is not as significant as people have lead me to believe.