Beautiful Big Tank....how Does It Work?

[Stacy84]

Hi,
Well I finally got a large tank (150 gallons acrylic) and I am picking it up this weekend. It is second-hand but brand new as in was used for maybe two months. It comes with what looks like a wet dry filter, lighting etc. First question, how does a wet dry filter work and what do I need to know about water changes ( i assume it is going to be very different than my current 40 gallon set up that has a bio wheel filter)? Do i need to rinse the bio balls before I fill it up? What is the difference between a "sump' and a "wet/dry filter' i seem to find the two name interchangable on the internet yet that doesn't make sense to me. ...Also...do I need to worry about a heater? I have no idea what kind of lighting the tank is coming with but I have been told that with a liight big enough to fit the tank I won't need a heater and might possibly need a chiller. Which is another question...what is a chiller and how does that work? (other than the obvious it make things "chilled").The person I am buying the tank from doesn't seem to know much about it...I think it was her boyfriends and they split and...yeah... The tank is going to be set up as brackish and eventually salt as my GSP, Mono, and scat get larger. I am attempting to upgrade and very excited but at the same time apprehensive because i feel like I am entering whole new much bigger world of aquariums and feel like...well this Any help would be appreciated...I pick the tank up Friday and at that time I can post more details. thanks in advance!!!

 

[ImperfectFaerie]

Hi- I feel like a light can heat a very small aquarium well, but when your talking 150g, it seems that you'd need a heater. I don't see a light being able to consistantly keep things at the same temp. i could be wrong, as I know it's easier to keep temps stable in bigger tanks than smaller.

 

[wuvmybetta]

You'll be okay, a wet/dry and a sump are the same thing. The 'dry' part is just referring to your bio ball area that is only somewhat submerged.

Is the tank up and running right now? If so, I wouldn't wash the bio-balls as you'll kill a large source of beneficial bacteria. If not, go ahead and rinse them out and start fresh and new.

Your filter will work by way of your overflow box syphoning water down into the sump, and the water will drain through the bioballs and then it will be pumped back into the tank via a large water pump. It's tricky to get your water levels just right in the beginning. When you unplug your pump the water will drain into your sump, so you have to be sure not to overfill etc.
I like to turn my pump off, let the tank drain into the sump, syphon dirty water out, turn the pump back on and begin refilling with clean water into the sump. It's really not that hard, but I understand your apprehension, I was nervous at first too.

Other people may do it other ways, I'm interested to hear.

eta~ you can keep your heater down in your sump if you choose to use one. I personally do not.

 

[raptorrex]

Hi- I feel like a light can heat a very small aquarium well, but when your talking 150g, it seems that you'd need a heater. I don't see a light being able to consistantly keep things at the same temp. i could be wrong, as I know it's easier to keep temps stable in bigger tanks than smaller.

would it not depend on the ambient temp of the room in which the tank was kept?

 

[PaPeRo]

Depending on how hot it gets in the summer where you live, you may need to get a chiller. A chiller is kinda like an air conditioner for your tank but it cools down the water instead of the air. Chillers run on electricity and they can be quite expensive for a tank as big as yours. You're looking at maybe $150 for the chiller minimum. If your home is air conditioned you might not need a chiller. Water inside your tank is usually colder than the room temperature. So if your climate control is set to say 74F in the summer, you don't need a chiller. In the winter you may/may not need a heater if your climate control is again at 74F.

 

[mr.dark-saint]

When you fill the tank don't fill the sump. Any extra water will over flow in to the sump when setting up. You can either let the sump get filled this way or directly fill the sump (after the main tank is filled) this way you don't have to worry about flooding. After the water pump is running I like to mark off the level of the water (this will indicate water at full capacity and you can re-fill to the line without turning the system off. You know evaporation). I also like to mark off the lowest the pump can function without sucking in air (pretty useless I know but I'm silly like that ).

I wouldn't bother washing the bio-balls since what is there will just add to the ammonia cycle.

Sump is nothing more than a tank. Wet/Dry, Trickle Filter are the media used in sections of a sump for biological filtration.

You'd need a heater unless you're getting a metal halide (high pressure sodiums) or VHO which will raise the room temp as well . If it's a Power Compact it'll raise a bout 5/10 degrees. Regular Floro. lights woudn't move much in the temp department (but the ballast will since those things get HOT).

Acrylic is better insulated than glass so it retains heat better. One can get by with less wattage heater (I'm using a 125 or 150 watt Ebo and it's doing fine in my 125). When I had four 96 watt Power Compacts I didn't use any heaters to keep the water at 78/80 (slight drop at night but that's supposed to be normal as in expected).

Chiller is more like a fridge than air conditioner (to me at least) but I suppose the principal is similar. Most likely one does not need it unless the lights or the residence gets "HOT". Otherwise you don't need it.

 

[Stacy84]

Hi,
Thank you so much for all your help! I picked up the tank and it is great! However the components seem to outdate the tank by many years. The wet/dry filter box (the thing with the bioballs) seems to be new however the pump seems to be old. The casing is cracked...can I still use it like that? Also there is a UV sterilizer from 1994 it too has a cracked casing thingy on the top and has some salt collected under it...it looks like it was still being used after the crack but I am not sure if that is safe or not ? Also, in the overflow box there is a pipe that comes up that is wrapped in what looks like a cottony spongy thing and then some netting...do I leave that in there? I understand there is suppose to be something to catch the debris so it doesn't accumulate in the bio balls (I have been doing as much research as possible) but I thought it would be in the pipe? I will take picture hopefully tonight of the equipment. I really don't want to /can't afford to have someone come and set up the tank for me so I am hoping that I can get some help on here as to how to hook it up. I understand pictures are very neccessary to answer these questions so i will post them later.
Thanks again for all your help so far!!!