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This is not as easy as it seems, You will need to look into RO ( Reverse Osmosis ), DO NOT use things like PH down the stuff is rubbish there is more to lowering PH than just adding x number of capfulls of some product to y number of gallons of water.
Agree, this is not so easy. But I am wondering if we are mixing terms.
KH refers to carbonate hardness, or Alkalinity. There is also GH referring to general hardness. The of course we have pH, which is related to these former.
The GH is the most critical for fish, as soft water fish (like neon tetra) have problems with the minerals in hard water. The KH is usually related to the GH (both will be high, for example, though sometimes this can vary) and the KH buffers the pH to prevent fluctuations.
The above is very simple, but should suffice for the present. As Nick said, adjusting this (and you need to address the GH and KH together, and the pH will then usually follow suit) means diluting the source water with some type of "pure" water, such as RO, distilled or rainwater (rainwater is usually soft, and slightly acidic, and can be useful provided it is not contaminated by industry).
Before considering methods, or even if necessary, what are the numbers of the GH, KH and pH of your source water (tap water, or well water, whichever)? If you are on municipal water, you should be able to ascertain these numbers from their website, or by asking them directly. No need for test kits yet. But if you do test the tap water pH, make sure you out-gas the CO2 first by letting a glass of water sit for 24 hours.
Byron.
KH refers to carbonate hardness, or Alkalinity. There is also GH referring to general hardness. The of course we have pH, which is related to these former.
The GH is the most critical for fish, as soft water fish (like neon tetra) have problems with the minerals in hard water. The KH is usually related to the GH (both will be high, for example, though sometimes this can vary) and the KH buffers the pH to prevent fluctuations.
The above is very simple, but should suffice for the present. As Nick said, adjusting this (and you need to address the GH and KH together, and the pH will then usually follow suit) means diluting the source water with some type of "pure" water, such as RO, distilled or rainwater (rainwater is usually soft, and slightly acidic, and can be useful provided it is not contaminated by industry).
Before considering methods, or even if necessary, what are the numbers of the GH, KH and pH of your source water (tap water, or well water, whichever)? If you are on municipal water, you should be able to ascertain these numbers from their website, or by asking them directly. No need for test kits yet. But if you do test the tap water pH, make sure you out-gas the CO2 first by letting a glass of water sit for 24 hours.
Byron.
Hello! Thank you for your replies, yes I made a mistake, I meant GH. Sorry about that was worried about my fish.
My current readings are as followed:
Ph: 7.3
GH: 168-78ppm
KH: Unsure bottle broke.
The fish in my tank (30L)are a small catfish, 6 neons and 2 guppies. I've had the tank about 4-5 weeks.
My current readings are as followed:
Ph: 7.3
GH: 168-78ppm
KH: Unsure bottle broke.
The fish in my tank (30L)are a small catfish, 6 neons and 2 guppies. I've had the tank about 4-5 weeks.
Your hardness is not bad; 168-178 ppm equates to around 9 dGH, which is moderately hard. I agree that neons would appreciate it lower, but I also wouldn't worry here as it will be quite a job achieving this and there are a great many fish that will not have issues.
What is the catfish?
Byron.
What is the catfish?
Byron.
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