Algae killer liquid and Otocinclus/algae eaters

[Neonlights]

I recently developed an issue with hair algae which I've attributed to an entry level CO2 system (bottle/powder job) which I've discontinued and will replace with a gas canister system. I've reduced light, water changes remain at 40% once a week but I want to get a handle on the hair algae problem as it's coating my moss.

I've used API Prevent Algae before so I'm considering a treatment of that as my amano shrimp aren't cutting it. I'm just concerned how much of an impact this could have on the algae on the plants, rocks, etc. and whether it would reduce it too much as far as my otocinclus are concerned. Would this be an issue?

 

[Magnum Man]

With Oto’s in the tank, I would try messing with lightning 1st ( maybe you already have ) but I would try lowering light intensity and or hours 1st, before adding a chemical

 

[GaryE]

No algicide will ever get near my tanks. You have to somehow get at the source, or else live with it. Periodically dosing it with a concoction that is harmful to the rest of the tank life is risky business. And it will just return, if you consider the long game.

 

[WhistlingBadger]

Make a change, wait a couple weeks to see what happens, then make another change. Chemicals are rarely necessary. Eventually you'll hit a balance and all will be well. Remember: In this hobby, only bad things happen quickly.

My paludarium had a bad hair algae problem when I first set it up. I removed it manually (an old toothbrush or other small brush works admirably), and over time it went away as the plants filled in and the biology stabilized.

I have used Ultralife in my 150g a few times to reduce cyanobacteria because I was afraid it would be toxic to my algae eaters, but until I addressed the underlying causes (light imbalance, in my case), it came right back. Once I got the lighting right, the CB too cleared up over time.

In my experience, stability and live plants are the natural enemies of algae.

 

[Neonlights]

Thanks @Magnum Man @GaryE @WhistlingBadger for the respones!

I’ve only really returned to the hobby this year properly after not having kept fish for around 15yrs (last time was a 300ltr tank with Malawi Cichlids and then oscars), so my small set up now is really all about having a nice aquascape for my betta, otos and some corys and dwarf petricolas. As everything (besides the betta) is a “bottom feeder” I’m wary of chemicals.

One of my corys just had a spot of fungus (first time in this aquarium)that I think was caused by too much chlorine remover (Prime) and him itching on the substrate. I put in dose 1 of a fungus medicine yesterday and today it’s already gone. I just want to do a big (40%) water change and switch to API’s Stress Coat) and let everything settle down without more chemicals waiting to be used.

@WhistlingBadger what did you find worked best with reducing light? Did you just cut the hours or alternate some days without any light? I’ve had the tank since June and it’s only in the last month that the problem has occured.

 

[Essjay]

Lights should be on at the same time of day every day for the same length of time every day. The way to cut down on lighting is to reduce the number of hours each day that the lights are on.

 

[GaryE]

Reducing lighting can be hard because we want to see the set up, and most of us are gone all day at work. You have to find a solution that works for you, but light is algae's greatest friend. I always use timers, or bluetooth lights, and control the lighting period. But I am low tech as far as plants go.

 

[Neonlights]

@Essjay my lights have always been on a timer. I have a maximum of 6hrs a day but I’m going to cut that to 5 and see what happens.

@GaryE agreed. I’m going to go for 1hr (reducing it from 90mins) in the morning when we’re in the kitchen and then 4hrs (reduced from 5.5hrs) in the evening when we spend time there.

 

[WhistlingBadger]

I reduced the light for one hour, waited a couple of weeks, then reduced it again. This tank was in a business, and I eventually found out that someone (probably me) had bumped the timer switch and the lights were staying on 24/7. It took a few months for it all to go away, but eventually it did.

To address the problem Gary mentions (we're at work and want to spend time with our tanks in the evenings), you can do a dark spell for a couple hours in the middle of the day.

 

[Neonlights]

I reduced the light for one hour, waited a couple of weeks, then reduced it again. This tank was in a business, and I eventually found out that someone (probably me) had bumped the timer switch and the lights were staying on 24/7. It took a few months for it all to go away, but eventually it did.

To address the problem Gary mentions (we're at work and want to spend time with our tanks in the evenings), you can do a dark spell for a couple hours in the middle of the day.

I’m going to try 5hrs in total a day. The aquatic store recommended 6 when I got the tank. It’s weird that I only had this issue 5 months into having the tank, I thought everything was pretty settled. I’m half-minded to rip all the moss out (which it’s mostly attached to) buy new moss and start again.

 

[Neonlights]

Also thinking getting more amano shrimp might help make a good dent in it.

 

[WhistlingBadger]

I’m going to try 5hrs in total a day. The aquatic store recommended 6 when I got the tank. It’s weird that I only had this issue 5 months into having the tank, I thought everything was pretty settled. I’m half-minded to rip all the moss out (which it’s mostly attached to) buy new moss and start again.

I've had that happen, too, sometimes as long as a year or two into a setup. An aquarium is a complex, living system, and sometimes the thousands of variables work together in unexpected ways. It took about two years for my 150g to really settle down and become stable. That's kind of extreme, but not abnormal.

Is your current light six hours an day? That doesn't sound like enough, especially if you're adding CO2. Could too little light be the problem? It seems weird, but that can favor algae, too (or rather, it can disadvantage the big plants)

 

[Neonlights]

I've had that happen, too, sometimes as long as a year or two into a setup. An aquarium is a complex, living system, and sometimes the thousands of variables work together in unexpected ways. It took about two years for my 150g to really settle down and become stable. That's kind of extreme, but not abnormal.

Is your current light six hours an day? That doesn't sound like enough, especially if you're adding CO2. Could too little light be the problem? It seems weird, but that can favor algae, too (or rather, it can disadvantage the big plants)

Yes, currently 6hrs a day. Right now there’s no CO2 but my wife’s bought me a really nice canister system for Christmas but now I’m worried it will make the algae go crazy.

Actually, I should stick a post in another thread here to ask about CO2 and algae…

 

[Ceez]

I've used hydrogen peroxide in the past when I've had out of control algae blooms. You do a water change to as much as is needed to get the water below the level of the algae then you lightly spray hydrogen peroxide on it and let it sit for 5 minutes. It does a fine job and in small quantities isn't toxic for your fish.

I used more than I felt comfortable with on one occasion so I filled the tank back up and immediately did another 80% water change and no issues. I learned about this from one of Cory's videos from aqaurium co op and it worked wonders

Some fish keepers dose 2ml per 10 gallons to treat for a certain parasite that comes from their city water. I forget what the name of it is. Lemme see if I can dig up the video

 

[Ceez]

This gentleman does it a bit different but same idea. He takes his plants/rocks etc out and sprays them.