Algae filters

andywg

Bored into leaving
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Messages
6,350
Reaction score
0
Location
Somewhere else, as I am banned...
A lot of the below is from this site: Algae Scrubbers.

Below is a post I made on another forum and I feel it may be worthy of note, especially for people with large, nitrate sensitive fish (like puffers and rays) on a natural form of filtration that can complete the Nitrogen cycle (eliminate nitrates from the water).

Essentially it is like using plants for nitrate removal but algae has a far higher utilisation rate. Anyway, enjoy!

Sorry it took a while to get back but I think that algae turf scrubbers could work extremely well. They are already well used (of a fashion) in reef setups.

In a reef setup one would use an algae like Caluerpa (sp?) in order to suck up some of the nutrients (like phosphate and the like) that are far more problematic than in FW. This is often augmented by fertilising the refugium or sump with a mineral rich mud to encourage growth.

The Great Barrier Reef Aquarium Aquarium (in Townsville Australia) is a 4 million litre reef system where they are trialling turf algae. They have found that 1000 micron mesh allows for the best growth/cleaning and utilise a tipping bucket system to increase gas exchange and nutrient takeup in the ensuing turbulence.

They have found that shallow trays work better (somewhat expected due to the increased area for gas exchange).

An important point I have seen is the need for "grazing" the system from time to time (at Townsville they do this every 5 - 14 days) to prevent further organisms growing in the scrubber that may feed off the algae and start to dump these nutrients back into the water. This is done by removing the tray and scraping the algae off with a flat perspex sheet (so as not to remove all the algae).

It was found after the tests at Townsville that while most conventional methods (mechanical and biological) of filtration leave nutrient levels in the order of parts per million, algae scrubbers render them in the parts per billion.

As an added boost it is thought that all the harvested algae could be used in fuel generation of one sort or another.

My conclusion on this is that algae scrubbers appear to work fantastically, and assuming you can gain the right algae to seed a freshwater tank they should convert over pretty well. The big problems I have are somewhat obvious:

1 what effect will having such an effective nutrient remover and oxygenator have on a planted tank? The obvious answer is not good for the flora. However in a fish only system (particularly one with large messy predatory fish) it could be a fantastic thing. Especially if teemed up with a sump and fluidised sand bed filtration system.

2 How effective is the algae itself. Remember that in a reef system the liverock can complete the nitrogen cycle (ammonia to nitrite to nitrate to nitrogen gas) so there would not have been such a high concentration of nitrogen compounds. However if coupled as mentioned above it should perform admirably.

3 Is there a risk from algae going "sexual". In reefs the common used caleurpa sp again?) can become sexually active. I forget how but this can cause an entire tank to crash and wreak some amazing devastation.

4 What are the lighting requirements? Would it be a 24hr lighting (like reef fuges?)

My final thought is then that this is a truly exciting prospect if maybe a little unsuited to planted tanks. It could help reduce the need for water changes to a reef level (of 10% per month) instead of the frequency currently necessary in FW. Certainly something I will keep my eye out for in the future for more information on its implications for FW.
 
Great idea but I see another problem with it - not doing water changes with the algae using up minerals from the water may result in a gradual change in pH. Then when you actualy do change the water, you get a more obvious fluctuation - and then off we go again... I don't think this would be particularly good news for sensitive fish. Obviously, I have no idea just how much of an effect it would have on pH but it might be an issue. The idea that it would reduce water changes necessary might end up being more of a problem than a benefit - people might start to slack and leave their tank for much longer and, before you know it, everyone's got 'old tank syndrome' regardless of their nitrAte-removing algae... And if people start leaving it for longer, the pH thing may also get progressively worse.
 
TBH I would be surprised to see any great change in the pH. The only reason there would be is if you didn't create a turbulence to allow the CO2 from the photosynthesis to excape and to allow the water to re-oxygenate. Other than this there should be no problem as the main factor to affect pH in tanks (other than chemical treatments) is photosynthesis.

With water changes, yes people may slack and leave it longer, but then they do just that now. At least with this system you won't be allowing a nitrogen based poison (remember nitrate is poisonous to fish too, just markedly less so than ammonia or nitrite) to build up in the tank.
 
That sounds very interesting. Could we use this concept as a layer within the filter. Would it work?
 
It could be used as a layer within the filter and there are a number of discussions i n the reef community as to whether it is viable to run a tank with the ATS (Algae Turf Scrubber) as the only form of filtration. It appears a limited number of people have tried it and even ended up removing their protein skimmer as it just wasn't filling up (all the nutrients were removed by the algae).

One problem with using it with other more standard filtration would be that the algae prefers to take up ammonia (as do plants) than nitrite or nitrate so if you have an effective sized ATS then it is possible it would keep taking the ammonia and you would never see a cycle (again possible with plants if you get the levels of CO2 and fertiliser and fish right).

Another problem is the need to light the algae. The easiest way to locate it would be with a sump so that the water can fall into the tank with the lights above it. Other wise you could devise a closed system (like a wide flat transparent cannister filter) that could be lit externally (less easy to do and to make accessible for the weekly to bi-weekly scraping).

As mentioned above, the result of this is to leave the water with a high oxygen level and low CO2 which is going to make any plants difficult to grow, but for largeer systems with messy predatory fish that like low nitrates (like rays) then it could work really well.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top