Algae Bloom And Plant Signs..best Action

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fish+peace

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the last week i've got some blue/green algae on my bogwood with green brushy algae and also the usual green algae on the glass is appearing a day or 2 after a clean

its a 180 litre with 2 x25w day glo/plant
I have the lights on for 4 hours then off for 2 then on for 4 on a timer

i would say half is planted with java fern on bogwood a small anubias and cabomba spead at the back (about 2 bunches worth)

the cabomba is growing but the tops are yellow/to white and the java fern has some dark tips

i do a water change once a week whilst siphoning debris from top of sand

my ph is normal around 7 - ammonia, nitrite and nitrates all 0ppm

i added 4ml 1/2 dosage of florish plant food as i have no nutrients under my sand substrate

i am a little confused as to the best course of action with this one and help would be appreciated this is a mature tank.
 
Your BGA will be a lack of Nitrate. You want to be dosing a Complete plant food like Tropica Specialised, TNC Complete or Neutro+
The brush algae - Low/Fluctuating CO2 if you want to stick the the siesta approach you might want to leave the lights of longer and possibly reduce the overall times they're on.

Check the algae guide here for info
 
Thanks for the reply - so more plant food will up the nitrates i'm trying to setup a drop checker and would like a diy co2 but was holding out for payday - i thought the 'siesta' would help with algae prevention - some guides say 10-12 hours of light then some say 8 - am i right in thinling that longer light requires more co2? would u call 2 x 25 average light?

i have a 206 external which cycles around 740l/ph so for the 180 thats around 4 cycles per hour - the flow seems ok i've just lowered it slightly (2" under) to reduce surface agitation though it still moves surface ok
 
Sounds like you're making the right moves. x4 times turnover would be better at x10.

You're correct, more light means more need for CO2. IMO the siesta allows the tank to re-coup some CO2, but it has to be a decent length off against not to long a photoperiod (lights on)

As for the guides, you can have as much light as you like provided (as you have said) you have enough CO2. Lowering the outlet will hopefully "gas off" less too...
 
yeah i got this filter as overkill for a 97 litre tank then i saw a shiny 180litre vision and pow its sat in my livingroom - i might upgrade to a used 406 and sell the 206 which is about 11 months old

so prehaps 4 hours - 3 hour siesta then 3 hours on - without additional co2

i read on that guide that the darker leaves is due to phosphorus defficiency could explain the dark tips on java fern ?
 
i read on that guide that the darker leaves is due to phosphorus defficiency could explain the dark tips on java fern ?

Sounds more like a lack of Carbon to me but I could be wrong - I'd imagine that the next phase would be for alagae to appear at the same places....

See how you get on with your siesta.
 
is it possible that without nutrients in the substrate the cabomba are taking too much from the water - i just have sand, siesta is now programmed into the timers see how that goes

Oh the plant food i have is tropiflora but i have hardly used it so far - just 8ml (4ml per 90l)
 
If it's taking too much out of the water, you're not putting enough in.
Start using the Tropiflora, but it's unlikely to contain any decent nutrients.
 
What would you class as having 'decent nutrients'
tropiflora is sold as a plant fertiliser with iron, magnesium, potassium and trace elements

i thI assume the aquarium should provide Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium

along with light and carbon this should cover all of the plants needs right?

obviously in the right amounts
 
i thI assume the aquarium should provide Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium

Test kits are extremly poor, but if we believe yours you have no Nitrogen.. I'd wager your phosphate is low or nil too TBH
 

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