Advice On Danio Deaths And Controlling Nitrate Levels

spletsto

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Hi all, I have a two part question. In order to keep clarification requests low I'll be as detailed as possible.

I have had two glo-fish danio deaths in the last week (I'd rather not hear opinions on these fish, I know they are controversial). For a couple of months I've kept a 36 gallon bowfront tank (Penguin BioWheel 200 filter, suitable heating element) containing four five-band barbs, and four of these danios plus a clown pleco. The barbs all contracted ich which I treated via salt and heat for a week and a half which cleared it up nicely. After several weeks so my biofilter could adjust, I added two more danios. After about a week and a half one new danio begin acting sluggishly and hiding out in one corner of the aquarium. After several days he surfaced for 1/2 a day and finally died. Several days later this same phenomenon occurred with one of my old danios. Now I have a third danio in the initial stages of the described behavior. I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on. Other than the sluggish behavior there is no other symptoms such as bloat or signs of bacterial or fungal infection. Oh and just FYI, I established my tank in Feb with a fishless cycle.

I change the water 5-10 gals every week making sure to vacuum debris from the sand substrate. My water parameters are stable from week to week and are as follows:

pH = 8.2 (pet store pH was 8.0 so pH shock is unlikely)
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 20-40 (crappy API tester so hard to tell. seems closer to the 20 value)
KH = 8 drops
GH = 15 drops
temp = 79 degs

I feed Tetracolor in the mornings and HBH 8 veggie in the evenings. I keep my light on from 3-10 pm

Anyone have a clue as to the deaths? Could low O2 levels be the prob? Seems unlikely since my tank doesn't have that high of a bioload.

Also my second question regards keeping nitrates low. I'd prefer my nitrates be between 5-10 but this is proving hard even with regular water changes. My tap water shows 0 nitrates. Once I treat with API Tap Water Conditioner (1mL/5 gals to remove chloramines). Once I do this my nitrates climb to around 10, most likely from ammonia release from chloramine destruction. With this high of nitrate levels I'll never get my tank levels down without a large water change (and thus disturbing my bacterial ecosystem and risking killing my fish).

I've gone to the local store and picked up a gallon of distilled water, purified drinking water (supplemented with carbonates, etc) and spring water. The purified drinking water has 0 nitrates and a pH of 7.2. The spring water has a pH of 6.4 and high nitrates. The distilled water had pH of 6.4 and I never checked the nitrates. Anyway I can't really change with these water sources for risk of pH shock to my aquarium. anyone have any creative advice on how I can lower my nitrates from my treated tap water before I add it to my tank?

Sorry for the length but I thought it would be easier to lay it all out now rather than have to reply.
 
Any reason for the panic over what i consider very low nitrates?

My fish are kept in the 60 - 80 range and its said nitrates dont become harmfull until they go over 300ppm.

The only people i know who go mental over nitrate levels are discus owners... :eek:
 
Less food and larger water changes are a very good way to reduce nitrAtes.While elevated nitrAtes may not be directly harmful ,they do represent excess organics in the aquarium and the majority of fishes will do better if these organic levels are kept to a minimum.(My two cents)
 
Im with Tizer on this, everything ive read seems like a person shouldnt be worrying about nitrates unless they are very high, off the scale type.

I have about 20-40 consistenly, and I know that I do water changes every week to keep them in check.
 
As others have stated, it isn't the Nitrate level causing the problems, most species begin to show problems at 400Mg/L.

I'd also drop the temperature to 22[sup]o[/sup]C.

Does your tank have any surface agitation?
 
Thanks all. My tank does not have a lot of surface agitation as I keep the water level up to the top of the Penguin filter water exit. I do have a very long bubbler that reaches from one side of the tank all the way to the other making a nice wall of bubbles. I've read that this does not aerate water and that only surface agitation does. As chemist, I have a hard time believing this. If someone gave a good scientific reasoning as to why, I'm all ears. I may try to drop the temp. I have it up higher as I noticed my pleco is more active at the increased temp and keeps my algae down better.

I wanted to keep my nitrates as low as possible as most of what I've read (right or not) says nitrates really take their toll over the long run. I figured the lower the better and the cleaner my tank.
 
An air stone will aerate to some extent, but it'll be the surface agitation that the bubbles are creating that will be doing the most gaseous exchange, the contact time and surface area of the bubbles is relatively small so the diffusion is poor, as long as you have some form of surface agitation your tank should be sufficiently aerated.

If you give me a few minutes I can drag up a paper on the effects of Nitrate on Fat Head Minnows, they're not Danio's but they're close enough genetically.
 
@StandbySetting, that computes. This just in, my Danio has bloat. Today I've noticed the prickly scales although it's minor. He's in a quarantine tank and dosed with Maracyn-2 so we'll see what happens. Not sure if that's what the others had since they died before getting to this stage.
 

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