A new fish person with some questions...

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Okay, but will it take several weeks to startup? Also, if I test the ph with a liquid tester and it's the wrong value, will I have to buy something to change it?

No to both questions. Floating plants are rapid growing, and they will show signs of settling and growth fairly soon. Once this is obvious, you are ready to add fish. Floating plants will take up so much ammonia they are often termed "ammonia sinks." As this is a new method for you, it is safe to be cautious. I can set up a new tank in a day and add fish immediately, but I've been doing this for over 30 years, and I have growing plants from other tanks to use, and to be honest, I know what I am doing and I can recognize the signs should anything go awry.

The pH is interactive with the GH (general hardness, which is basically the level of dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water) and KH (carbonate hardness or alkalinity). These serve to regulate or buffer the pH, and their impact depends upon their own levels. You cannot usually alter the pH without altering the GH/KH. This can get very complicated, and if fish are in the tank, deadly. You should find out the GH, KH and pH of your tap water which you will be using; then select fish that are suited to that water. This data may be on your water authority's website. There is really no need for a GH/KH test kit as once you know the level it is not going to change. The pH is different; depending upon the buffering capacity of the GH/KH, the pH may fluctuate or be a warning sign of deteriorating conditions, so a pH test kit is a good idea. [There is much more to this topic.]

Will the plants automatically fix the ph lvl? Do I need to buy plant fertilizer?

Plants have some effect on GH and pH, but to explain that here would I think cause more confusion. This is not a problem anyway, as it occurs in natural habitat waters and fish are well able to handle it. As for plant fertilizer, this may be advisable. The more plants you have, the more nutrients they will need, in balance with the light over the tank, and the fish being fed are unlikely to provide all of this. A comprehensive (complete) fertilizer is what you want; there is no benefit in adding individual mineral nutrients, this can create all sorts of problems. And the GH of your source (tap) water provides some minerals and we need to know that. I don't know which country you are in, so I won't recommend products now.

Do I need an air pump for the aquarium?

No, unless you select a sponge filter which connects to an air pump. The filter should provide surface disturbance around it, and this plus the movement of water through the tank--both of which are the job of the filter--are all you need.
 
No to both questions. Floating plants are rapid growing, and they will show signs of settling and growth fairly soon. Once this is obvious, you are ready to add fish. Floating plants will take up so much ammonia they are often termed "ammonia sinks." As this is a new method for you, it is safe to be cautious. I can set up a new tank in a day and add fish immediately, but I've been doing this for over 30 years, and I have growing plants from other tanks to use, and to be honest, I know what I am doing and I can recognize the signs should anything go awry.

The pH is interactive with the GH (general hardness, which is basically the level of dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water) and KH (carbonate hardness or alkalinity). These serve to regulate or buffer the pH, and their impact depends upon their own levels. You cannot usually alter the pH without altering the GH/KH. This can get very complicated, and if fish are in the tank, deadly. You should find out the GH, KH and pH of your tap water which you will be using; then select fish that are suited to that water. This data may be on your water authority's website. There is really no need for a GH/KH test kit as once you know the level it is not going to change. The pH is different; depending upon the buffering capacity of the GH/KH, the pH may fluctuate or be a warning sign of deteriorating conditions, so a pH test kit is a good idea. [There is much more to this topic.]



Plants have some effect on GH and pH, but to explain that here would I think cause more confusion. This is not a problem anyway, as it occurs in natural habitat waters and fish are well able to handle it. As for plant fertilizer, this may be advisable. The more plants you have, the more nutrients they will need, in balance with the light over the tank, and the fish being fed are unlikely to provide all of this. A comprehensive (complete) fertilizer is what you want; there is no benefit in adding individual mineral nutrients, this can create all sorts of problems. And the GH of your source (tap) water provides some minerals and we need to know that. I don't know which country you are in, so I won't recommend products now.



No, unless you select a sponge filter which connects to an air pump. The filter should provide surface disturbance around it, and this plus the movement of water through the tank--both of which are the job of the filter--are all you need.
Would this fertilizer be a complete fertilizer? Also, it seems like your saying I don't need a Freshwater test kit and only a PH test kit, is that correct? 3rd, I cant seem to find what GH and KH a Male Rose Petal Betta fish needs.

Link- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002566TW/?tag=ff0d01-20

Edit- I just tested my PH and it was 8 which is 1 higher than 7 which is ideal for Rose Petal Betta Fish. Is there a way to modify my PH to 7?
Edit- Do you know where I can buy Amazon Frogbit and floating plants like that? I cant seem to find a good one on Amazon.
 
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No, that plant fertiliser does not contain all the nutrients plants need.

For leaf feeding plants (eg anubias, floating plants) these are the best two
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025696M/?tag=ff0d01-20
Be careful as there are several products with Flourish in the name, you want only the Comprehensive Supplement one
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XGC21M8/?tag=ff0d01-20

For plants which feed through their roots (eg amaxon swords)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/?tag=ff0d01-20

The most important tests are ammonia and nitrite as these can kill fish quickly. pH and nitrate are less important.
Byron meant of these three - pH, GH and KH - you don't need to get testers for GH and KH as you can find those results on your water provider's website.
Most of us use theses testers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/?tag=ff0d01-20
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
No, that plant fertiliser does not contain all the nutrients plants need.

For leaf feeding plants (eg anubias, floating plants) these are the best two
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025696M/?tag=ff0d01-20
Be careful as there are several products with Flourish in the name, you want only the Comprehensive Supplement one
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XGC21M8/?tag=ff0d01-20

For plants which feed through their roots (eg amaxon swords)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/?tag=ff0d01-20

The most important tests are ammonia and nitrite as these can kill fish quickly. pH and nitrate are less important.
Byron meant of these three - pH, GH and KH - you don't need to get testers for GH and KH as you can find those results on your water provider's website.
Most of us use theses testers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/?tag=ff0d01-20
If I can’t find the GH and KH on my water providers website, do I have to buy a test kit?
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
The cheapest option would be to take some tap water to a fish store and ask them to test it.

But look on your water provider's website first. Look for 'hardness' (GH) and 'alkalinity' (their term for KH)
 
The cheapest option would be to take some tap water to a fish store and ask them to test it.

But look on your water provider's website first. Look for 'hardness' (GH) and 'alkalinity' (their term for KH)
Okay, my dad bought a pool test kit and it has Alkalinity. I don’t know if it has hardness. It does have PH which read a reading of 8 for my tap water. Can plants lower PH lvl 8 to 7?

Edit- It has Calcium hardness, is that GH?
 
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Okay, my dad bought a pool test kit and it has Alkalinity. I don’t know if it has hardness. It does have PH which read a reading of 8 for my tap water. Can plants lower PH lvl 8 to 7?

Edit- It has Calcium hardness, is that GH?

Plants will not affect pH to any extent. Their possible impact is during what is termed the diurnal cycle, when pH tends to be lower in the early morning (after a period of darkness) and higher in the latter part of the day after the "daylight" hours. But this is normal and not at all what you are meaning when you say change the pH from 8 to 7. I explained previously that this is tied to the GH and KH, and you/we must know those values before we can answer any questions related.

When testing pH of tap water, there is another issue. Tap water can have a lot of dissolved CO2, and this will lower the pH temporarily. You need to out-gas the CO2. This can be done by letting a glass of fresh tap water sit for 24 hours, then test the pH. You can also out-gas CO2 by briskly agitating the tap water, but this may be less accurate for you so do the 24-hour thing.

GH is a combination of the level of dissolved minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium (other minerals if present will be very low as they are usually monitored by health authorities to keep them low, minerals like copper, iron, etc). So calcium hardness will be a good indication of the overall GH since this is the primary "hard" mineral and there is so far as I am aware no health concerns over calcium. Humans need it too, for bones, teeth, etc.
 
Plants will not affect pH to any extent. Their possible impact is during what is termed the diurnal cycle, when pH tends to be lower in the early morning (after a period of darkness) and higher in the latter part of the day after the "daylight" hours. But this is normal and not at all what you are meaning when you say change the pH from 8 to 7. I explained previously that this is tied to the GH and KH, and you/we must know those values before we can answer any questions related.

When testing pH of tap water, there is another issue. Tap water can have a lot of dissolved CO2, and this will lower the pH temporarily. You need to out-gas the CO2. This can be done by letting a glass of fresh tap water sit for 24 hours, then test the pH. You can also out-gas CO2 by briskly agitating the tap water, but this may be less accurate for you so do the 24-hour thing.

GH is a combination of the level of dissolved minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium (other minerals if present will be very low as they are usually monitored by health authorities to keep them low, minerals like copper, iron, etc). So calcium hardness will be a good indication of the overall GH since this is the primary "hard" mineral and there is so far as I am aware no health concerns over calcium. Humans need it too, for bones, teeth, etc.
I got alkalinity of 4 and A calcium hardness of zero. I couldn't get a reading of calcium hardness in the water. Will do a PH test tomorrow. Are those calcium/Alkalinity test numbers good for a Betta fish? Also, would this gravel be good for a 10-gallon aquarium?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TGMLU0/?tag=ff0d01-20

 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I got alkalinity of 4 and A calcium hardness of zero. I couldn't get a reading of calcium hardness in the water. Will do a PH test tomorrow. Are those calcium/Alkalinity test numbers good for a Betta fish? Also, would this gravel be good for a 10-gallon aquarium?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TGMLU0/?tag=ff0d01-20


If the GH is that soft, it is fine for bettas (and any soft water fish species, just so you know).

I would not use that gravel. The black itself is not so bad (as you do not have substrate level fish, that would be very different) but the fluorescent bits is not advisable. This can affect fish. Remember, most fish and certainly bettas expect a natural dark-hue substrate of mud, leaves, chunks of wood, or sand. A natural tone gravel or sand is better. While I'm on the topic, lighting over the tank is important too, nothing too bright or garish.
 
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If the GH is that soft, it is fine for bettas (and any soft water fish species, just so you know).

I would not use that gravel. The black itself is not so bad (as you do not have substrate level fish, that would be very different) but the fluorescent bits is not advisable. This can affect fish. Remember, most fish and certainly bettas expect a natural dark-hue substrate of mud, leaves, chunks of wood, or sand. A natural tone gravel or sand is better. While I'm on the topic, lighting over the tank is important too, nothing too bright or garish.
Okay, I changed the gravel from the fluorescent black rocks to just plain black rocks.

Would this filter be a good filter for my fish?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DHYF4/?tag=ff0d01-20

Would this heater be sufficient enough for my Betta?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B3HWTY9/?tag=ff0d01-20

Would this fish set be a good set for my Betta?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QJDNR4J/?tag=ff0d01-20
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Would this fertilizer be a complete fertilizer? Also, it seems like your saying I don't need a Freshwater test kit and only a PH test kit, is that correct? 3rd, I cant seem to find what GH and KH a Male Rose Petal Betta fish needs.

Link- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002566TW/?tag=ff0d01-20

Edit- I just tested my PH and it was 8 which is 1 higher than 7 which is ideal for Rose Petal Betta Fish. Is there a way to modify my PH to 7?
Edit- Do you know where I can buy Amazon Frogbit and floating plants like that? I cant seem to find a good one on Amazon.
a local fish store would have that
not chain stores, dont see them selling floaters for me
 
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The linked filter. Bettas need quiet water, so you want a filter that does what is needed--water movement and some surface disturbance. I've no experience with this filter so will leave this for others.

The linked heater. Same here, I have no experience of this brand. I will say that lower wattage heaters in my experience do give out more frequently than higher. And when it comes to heaters, do not scrimp as no piece of equipment is as important. If the heater fails overnight for example, by either not working and cooling the fish or over heating and almost cooking the fish, it can be game over for the fish.

As for the decor, that is up to your taste, but bear in mind that bettas are primarily surface fish and should have floating plants. These can be real or artificial.
 
The linked filter. Bettas need quiet water, so you want a filter that does what is needed--water movement and some surface disturbance. I've no experience with this filter so will leave this for others.

The linked heater. Same here, I have no experience of this brand. I will say that lower wattage heaters in my experience do give out more frequently than higher. And when it comes to heaters, do not scrimp as no piece of equipment is as important. If the heater fails overnight for example, by either not working and cooling the fish or over heating and almost cooking the fish, it can be game over for the fish.

As for the decor, that is up to your taste, but bear in mind that bettas are primarily surface fish and should have floating plants. These can be real or artificial.
If I don’t buy one of those live floating plants like a Salvinia, how much longer will a tank take to be ready for a Betta fish?
 
If I don’t buy one of those live floating plants like a Salvinia, how much longer will a tank take to be ready for a Betta fish?

It depends upon the plants. The faster growing they are, the more ammonia they assimilate. Given this is for a betta, I would look at the more substantial floating plants, like Water Sprite, Frogbit, or Water Lettuce. Bettas also like to have this type of plant to browse among for food (off the roots). Salvinia helps, but is not as useful or effective.
 

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