Struggling to get tank right

[gorillabay]

Thanks for the reply...so I started with my tap water and have done about 12g worth of changes using R/O water. If I keep using R/O water for changes, I don't know at which point it would override the "original" tap water put into the tank. And then it seems that R/O water does not have a lot of minerals in it, so maybe right now driftwood etc. would not help lower the pH b/c the majority of the current water is the original tap water, but maybe down the road when more R/O water is added...this is all so confusing. I really appreciate the feedback. I feel like if I keep using the R/O water combined with use of the canister filter, things should get better. But also, should I dose the Glacier Water with water conditioner just to be safe? I get lost in the online research.

 

[Byron]

What kind of numbers would qualify as "hard water"?

I prefer to think of fish species, and livebearers in general must have moderately hard water. In numbers, that means no less than 10 dGH (180 ppm) and above this is fine up to about 30 dGH (540 ppm). This hard water will naturally have a basic pH (above 7).

Would driftwood/peat moss etc. be a worthy investment to try and lower my pH?

With your low GH and KH, the pH should lower naturally due to the organic build-up primarily in the substrate. Organic matter (wood, leaves, peat) will aid this. The level to which they do depends upon the water chemistry. Once you have the GH/KH down, the pH tends to follow suit.

 

[gorillabay]

So if the water (from both the tap and the R/O) is soft from the outset, why is the pH so high? Maybe in the tap they add something? If that's the case...how long should it take for the pH to lower? This concept of if eventually, through water changes, you can essentially replace enough of that original water to make a difference, is one that eludes me. Thank you for your help - as you can probably guess chemistry was a very weak subject for me in high school.

 

[Byron]

So if the water (from both the tap and the R/O) is soft from the outset, why is the pH so high? Maybe in the tap they add something? If that's the case...how long should it take for the pH to lower? This concept of if eventually, through water changes, you can essentially replace enough of that original water to make a difference, is one that eludes me. Thank you for your help - as you can probably guess chemistry was a very weak subject for me in high school.

Many soft water areas now use additives to raise the pH. Where I live we have near-zero GH and KH, and they add soda ash. A low pH (acidic) can corrode pipes, that is why they do this. Depending what is being added, it may dissipate out fairly quickly. You should be able to find out from your municipal water people.

Once the tank is running, water changes are consistent (mixing tap/RO), you should see the chemistry establish. It is better to do this rather than fussing with it so much; once is settles, it will likely be OK. But a fluctuating pH is harder on fish than a stable.