OK. With the lighting, I need to know the tank dimensions so I can relate the two. And also what is the spectrum of the tubes. This may be printed at one end of the tubes. Give me all that is printed there, and for each unless they are the same type.
To the fertilizers...I use Seachem too, but you want to be careful and not overdo it, as that can bring on algae issues. I'll have a better idea when I know the light data, but for the present you can use Flourish Comprehensive Supplement on the day following the water change; probably roughly the recommended dose or a bit less. You can also divide this dose and administer half about three or four days apart. The second product I would suggest is the Flourish Trace, on the day after you dose the Comprehensive, and here again you can divide the dose and administer half about three days apart.
I would also suggest Flourish Iron, the day after the Trace or with it; this too can be divided and administered 3-4 days apart. Don't use the iron on the same day as the Comprehensive.
Now, for the other products shown in the photo. Phosphorus I would not add at all. As you are running a basic low-tech or natural method planted tank, there will be sufficient phosphorus in the fish foods plus the Comprehensive, and very little is needed by plants. This can easily promote algae. I also wouldn't use the Nitrogen, at least not yet. Plants prefer nitrogen as ammonium, and they also take up nitrates (you will see on the label that this Nitrogen is ammonium and nitrate) but there is probably going to be enough of this occurring naturally. I have a tank without fish and just some plants, and I never dose nitrogen but the plants are doing fine. The Potassium shouldn't be necessary; I thought I needed this, but it did nothing, so I stopped.
The last thing you have there is Excel. This is a so-called liquid carbon supplement. I will never put this in a tank with fish. At the recommended dose, it will kill some plants (Vallisneria is especially sensitive, and moss sometimes), but if it should happen to get overdosed, it has the capability of killing plants, fish and bacteria. It contains glutaraldehyde (and water), a toxic disinfectant used in hospitals to sterilize. I personally see no sense in putting something like this in a fish tank. And once things get going, there will be sufficient natural carbon from the CO2 produced by the breakdown of organics in the substrate as well as respiration of fish, plants and some bacteria.
You mention the substrate tabs, presumably Flourish Tabs, and I would put one of these close to the large sword, and replace it every 2-3 months. One somewhere in the middle of the crypts might be helpful too, though I don't usually do this for crypts. Swords though are heavy feeders, and the substrate tabs have the benefit of not getting into the water column like liquid fertilizers, so algae is less likely to take advantage.
Byron.
