Oldwhitewoods 200l Nature Aquarium Journal

I went to world of water today and guess what, they had a massive bin full of the bogwood again! So I bought another three pieces, I couldn't help myself :) SHAME on them though, the price has now been put up to 6.99 where I am positive it was 5.99 before. I feel dissappointed with them as a retailer for that.

I also bought three bags of white sand. I think I'm going to do away with the tenellus foreground and have a white sand foreground.

I also got my test kit which led to some interesting results. The ph measured at 6.8 about an hour ago and the KH measured 2! That's about 10ppm of CO2!!! I'm not sure what to do really, so I increased the CO2 slightly and added a level tsp of bicarb of soda. Do you think this is going to be alright?
 
Did a lot of aquascaping work on the tank last night. I added three more pieces of bogwood onto my existing 'islands' to make the formation more dramatic. I also removed all of the hygro and replaced with the potted rotala I recieved from Birstall on Friday. I hope this will fill out the left hand side with a more fine leafed bush than the hygro which just dominated the layout completely and became uncontrollable.

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I've been really thinking about replacing the foreground of the tank with a sand substrate effect, but for now I think I am going to maintain it as it is with the tenellus foreground. Changing it round now would be a massive job plus I'd be ridding the tank of the ADA aquasoil and powersand which cost me quite a lot and I figure that would be a shame. So I'm going to do a new tank and get rid of my rio 125, so I have two tanks that match in the house. That will be one for another journal I think. The tank looks bare at the moment but at least I've knocked the tanins down a bit.

I have three spare pieces of bogwood, so as I mentioned before I will be setting up a new 60cm tank for this using a white sand substrate in the next few weeks. This will house some glowlight tetras, and various loach spieces. I'm thinking kuhli loach and maybe pakistani loach.
 

That is looking really great Oldwhitewood! The wood formations are beautiful. I hope you enjoy your rotala, I absolutely love mine. A fantastic plant. Beautiful, dense growth, and a little less crazy than hygro. If the conditions are right, the rotala gets the most pretty pinkish tinge to the top leaves, depending on the species. I have rotala macrandra (redder leaves) and rotundifolia, and I wish I had more of it.

Your pristella tetras also look so smart in your tank, really elegant.
 
Thanks guys, very kind of you to comment. I am a little uneasy about the wood formation but I think as the moss thickens it should look ok. I have the rotundifolia sp green from Tropica so I am hoping it will form a dense thicket behind the left cluster of wood.

I also think the pristilla tetras are an often overlooked species in planted tanks, people often favour the more flashy cardinal tetras or rummy noses but I think their subtly is overlooked. They are also quite bold in their shoal I think because its quite large and will take food from my hand willingly. They also seem to be a bit stupid when I'm doing a water change, I sucked 2 of them through the hose by accident last night as the fools kept swimming towards it! :lol:
 
They also seem to be a bit stupid when I'm doing a water change, I sucked 2 of them through the hose by accident last night as the fools kept swimming towards it! :lol:

:rofl: And I thought that my bridget rasboras were the only fish that enjoyed taking trips through my gravel vacumn!
 
I love the new hardscape config Neil. At first I thought the left island looked too dominating but imagining it post-filling plants I’m sure it’ll work just fine.

I understand you keeping the tenellus foreground; it does work very well, just higher maintenance. Have you had the joyous task of thinning it out yet?

One idea I did have if you wanted to make the transition to a sand foreground –

1.Slot plastic dividers (cut up ice cream tubs or similar) between the tenellus and midground i.e. where you want to start the sand.

2. Pull up all the plants and vacuum the substrate. You could use this old stuff in your new set up and it would be instant cycling with the mulm etc.

3. Replace with sand and remove dividers.

Just a thought.

I note you’re using the ADA Brighty Step 1. How long does the bottle last you (250 or 500ml)? When do you switch to Step 2 and then 3? Is it your choice entirely or is there a guide?

I’m finding the ADA ferts fascinating as they obviously work and at only 5 drops every other day in a 200L they must be super efficient. I guess they’re designed to be used in conjunction with the ADA substrates so this may explain they’re relatively low dosing requirements (+ your low CO2).

Very tempting. My concern with my new set-up is that if I EI with ADA Aqua Soil then I may overload with nutrients. I understand the Step 1 doesn’t actually contain any NPK so the AS must provide all the necessary. I guess I could just use my trace mix to start with………

Looking great, keep it up matey.
 
I love the new hardscape config Neil. At first I thought the left island looked too dominating but imagining it post-filling plants I’m sure it’ll work just fine.

I understand you keeping the tenellus foreground; it does work very well, just higher maintenance. Have you had the joyous task of thinning it out yet?

One idea I did have if you wanted to make the transition to a sand foreground –

1.Slot plastic dividers (cut up ice cream tubs or similar) between the tenellus and midground i.e. where you want to start the sand.

2. Pull up all the plants and vacuum the substrate. You could use this old stuff in your new set up and it would be instant cycling with the mulm etc.

3. Replace with sand and remove dividers.

Just a thought.

I note you’re using the ADA Brighty Step 1. How long does the bottle last you (250 or 500ml)? When do you switch to Step 2 and then 3? Is it your choice entirely or is there a guide?

I’m finding the ADA ferts fascinating as they obviously work and at only 5 drops every other day in a 200L they must be super efficient. I guess they’re designed to be used in conjunction with the ADA substrates so this may explain they’re relatively low dosing requirements (+ your low CO2).

Very tempting. My concern with my new set-up is that if I EI with ADA Aqua Soil then I may overload with nutrients. I understand the Step 1 doesn’t actually contain any NPK so the AS must provide all the necessary. I guess I could just use my trace mix to start with………

Looking great, keep it up matey.

It maybe does look a little too full on, I may lower the three pronged wood thing slightly. I must admit for all the staining from this wood it does have some great shapes with it. If the rotala grows and fills in on the left hand side I will make cuttings and plant it on the right too.

There are all kinds of Green Brightly, Brightly K combinations. It's all very new to me but you are not mean't to dose 5 drops in a 200L tank, more like 10 maybe 20! I can't remember off the top of my head. But I am trying to keep the water column very lean as the substrate is so rich. I have tourmaline BC, (not sure what it does to tbe honest :lol:) power sand special with nutrients in and aqua soil too, the water column is very rich so I am keeping an eye on it. It will get some info for you on the step 1, I think its a few months before you move onto the step 2. You are supposed to use it every day too, but I have been very catious with it as I am with ferts in general. The only thing I have stuck with is EI and step 1 which works really well in my other tank, but as this tank is using the ADA stuff I've been really careful with it. I don't know how effective it is over any other plant fertiliser.

Not tried thinning the tennelus out but I normally just hack it with scissors. The sand idea is a good one but it's not as straight forward as that. I would have to remove the bogwood completely and make sure the sand came under that, as it would look weird otherwise. Also I would need to take the sand right back into the distance because there is that 'channel' between the two clusters, which would involve too much work. The potential for leaping airbourne shrimp is putting me off :) I will be using the sand in my new setup so that should satisfy my curiosity with it.

They also seem to be a bit stupid when I'm doing a water change, I sucked 2 of them through the hose by accident last night as the fools kept swimming towards it! :lol:

:rofl: And I thought that my bridget rasboras were the only fish that enjoyed taking trips through my gravel vacumn!

:nod: Mine are completely fearless, I have to shoo them away from it. Add to this that the other night I had my arm in the tank which attracted the attention of a large amano shrimp, which began clinging to my arm and 'cleaning' it, which was at once fascinating and horrific! :lol:
 
Some info on the Green Brightly Series for George.

Green Brightly Step 1 (sprouting stage / up to 3 months after planting) Formula of trace elements protecting and strengthening roots and leaves of plants with basic trace elements for sprouting period. The use of Step 1 promotes the healthy growth of stems and roots.

Green Brightly Step 2 (Growing stage / 3 months - one year) In this period roots and leaves have matured and begun normal growth. Step 2 is formulated with supplemental iron and effectively prolongs healty growth.

Green Brightly Step 3 (Maturing stage / one year on up) As time passes the growth of plants is obstructed as oxidation and hardening of the substrate, reduces the rate and efficiency of photosynthesis. Step 3 is formulated with supplimental potassium and iron, enhancing photosynthesis deters the again process of aquatic plants.

The ferts work on a push dispensor type thing (a brilliant idea BTW) so one push for each 20lt of aquarium water everyday. So its basically trace elements, the special series, i.e Special Lights and Special Shade contain Nitrate and phosphate.
 
That is just beautiful. If I didn't know he size of it, I would have sworn it was massive (not as big as that one of Amano's with him standing over top, but big none-the-less.)
 
Another update. I'm currently following an ADA Green Brightly Step 1 dosing shedule of 8 drops per day which is about right for my water volume. The rotala seems to be growing, so is the new stuff I've planted but time will tell if it will eventually be bushy enough. I plan to let it grow then trim it and keep replanting in the areas to develop the thickness.

Due to some stuff George said I messed around with the driftwood cluster on the right, lowering the three pronged piece slightly so it does not look as dominant. It's still leaching but the wood seems to have taken on a paler colour now too.

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and I got quite a good closeup of a fish...

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PS Thanks Jen.

Doing a huge tank like Amano's would be a dream for me, I'd love to try a 4 foot tank in the future using large stones but that would be a long way off.
 
Nice pic of the x-ray tetra, wish I could get pics like that!

Sam
 
:lol: As much as I like the compliment there are other people on here more talented. I'm just learning.

Regarding the thinning what I normally do is cut into the tenellus from the top; vertically cutting into the plant not horizontally knocking the tops off, as you would a stem plant like hygro. Effectively you're cutting down from above at a slight angle, this thins out the plant but also doesn't leave you with "I've just trimmed these plants" type of look. You can then syphon off the cuttings and try and remove anything you can see from the 'field' as this will cause problems. Tenellus will regenerate pretty swiftly.

Stem plant trimming should be staggered if you intend to keep that look. So a thick clump of hygro for example must be trimmed in steps, tallest at the back to smallest at the front, that way when it grows back you can maintain a better view of the plant, rather than a clump of it growing at all the same height - UNLESS that is your intention with the aquascape.
 
It looks rubbish now, what an earth have you done??!!!!!!

:lol: Joking. Nicely done mate. Just when I think it was looking very good you move things about and improve even furthur. Good job matey, keep it up!

Be aware that you'll need to re-plant the tenellus sooner or later.

Just been in contact with Nick BTW. Nice guy.
 

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