I would disagree with the above statement. In a non CO2 tank it is even more important to have a relatively undisturbed surface as you are reliant on the existing CO2 staying there as you are not injecting any.
When you inject (more in the case of a pressurised setup) You can have the water surface moving as much as you like and just inject more CO2 to compensate.
Before Stanifish runs off and removes all surface agitation, however, one also has to take into consideration that when agitation is reduced, the possibility of a reduction in overall water circulation and filter effectiveness can also occur. The lack of circulation can create dead spots, and you biological filtration may not get the circulation that it needs to thrive because of the reduction in flow. Also, it depends on what fish you are keeping. I keep fish which prefer a stronger current, or clean, clear water (something that an efficient filter provides). One, therefore, has to reduce the agitation, without reducing filter flow or circulation. If this is not an option due to the construction of the filter, then IMO, I'd rather drive off CO2 from agitation then risk a lack of circulation. With 1WPG and hardy plants, it really isn't going make much of a difference in growth rates (at least I've not noticed any, my plants still grow well for me), and my fish enjoy the current and clear water. In addition, in some regions, the lack of surface agitation will often produce a protein film, which is unsightly. This frequently occurs in my neck of the woods, and as a result, I
must have some surface agitation in all of my tanks.
I think that with at least 1WPG in a tank 20g or larger, Stanifish, you should be able to grow most hardy plants, without CO2 or ferts of any kind other than possibly rootabs (I like these for crypts and swords especially, as they feed primarily through their root systems), especially if you have good filtration and are well-stocked with both plants and fish. This hobby isn't all that complicated, and if it your first time experimenting with plants, I'd really go simple first. You can always choose to upgrade to more fancy equipment later on. With the above tank conditions, often just doing proper tank maintenance will also be beneficial to the plants, and not much more will need to be done to ensure healthy growth. I do weekly water changes, but I often have sensitive fry, am overstocked, and am fattening fish up for breeding purposes. I've gone a month or so with just top-offs, but I personally don't like it, and actually notice better growth when I'm at my weekly regimen. Check out the easy plant list in my signature. Most will do well for you without much effort.
How big is the tank Stanifish, because WPG values are not quite the same for smaller and larger tanks? Also, what is your substrate?
llj
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