New tank cycling

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Last time I used Fluval Biological Enhancer and the results where amazing.

It cycled without spikes and I haven't had to re-dose the tank since.

The product contains 0 bacteria of any kind and is aimed at promoting the existing nitifying bacteria that are already everywhere.

And it works... 2 weeks later the filters where smelling like they where established for years.

The small bottle costs a couple bucks, saves a lot on water changes and stress for you and the fishes.
 
I put fitzyme 7 and ammonia in on Thursday, following the directions. This is what the fish store had in stock at the time.

The instructions said to add fish in 24 hours but I have chose to add a booster af ammonia that day and will test tonite with possible fish addition on Sunday. I w did add some live plants.

I admit to being somewhat confused and do not want to kill what we consider to be pets.
 
Rather than use API Quick Start it would be better to use either Dr Tim's One & Only or Tetra Safe Start as these two contain the correct species of nitrite eaters, while the API product does not.
Hello. I've always used the API products with good results. But, you can use any of the bacteria starters.

10
 
Hello. I've always used the API products with good results. But, you can use any of the bacteria starters.

10
At what point can I add fish. I am not against doing aggressive water changes. Oh, and the tank is a 37 not a 40. It is 22 tall by 30 by 12
 
When it comes to the bacterial starters the most important bacteria; strain to colonize are the Nitrospira. These bacteria can do two things of major importance in a tank. It was initially thought that they were the primary nitrite oxidizers in tanks. Then about 8 years ago it was discovered that the Nitrospira can actually oxidize ammonia straight to nitrate. These bacteria are essential to have in a cycled tank.

Now comes the problem. The Nitrospira and the method for detecting them are protected by a patent. This is held jointly between Dr, Timothy Hovanec, the maker of Dr. Tim's One and Only, and Tetra. They share the patent. So One and Only and Safe Start are the only bacterial starter products which contain Nitrospira.

The next thing to understand is when using any other starter product, their nitrite oxidizer will all die off and be replaced by Nitrospira. The thing about cycling is you almost cannot prevent it. Nature is smarter and better than we are at this stuff. The trick is for us not to harm or kill fish.

Since you have fish-in trying to cycle, I will not give you any further help as I am strongly opposed ti fish-in cycling. However, I wrote two more cycling related articles for the site. They deal with a fish-in cycle gone wild. It is in two parts. The first thing to know is you do not need to do and should not do water changes to deal with nitrite during a cycle involving fish. The reason why is fully explained in the second Rescue article.

Water changes slow a cycle. That means when fish are involved you will stress them with frequent water changes and you will cause them to be exposed to nitrite levels for no reason. Chloride in salt blocks the nitrite from entering the fish. So that means you can let the bacteria needed reproduce at the maximum rate and that means the nitrite is completely gone a lot sooner. When a fish has nitrite in it's system it takes a day or two to work it's way out. But as long as there is still nitrite in the water entering the fish, the problems caused by nitrite will persist. Block it with chloride and the fish will be fine. All you have to do is to wait for the Nitrospira to reproduce sufficiently.

The only solution for ammonia is to change water. But the thing is it matters what ppm of total ammonia one has. The lower the pH the less toxic ammonia is. Please read the Resuce articles and learn all about this stuff.

I am happy to help if you follow what its in the Resuce articles. If you want to go another route and listen to somebody else, that is fine. I will simply back off. The one thing that is for certain is that you should only listen to one voice. Shut out the rest. That way you will succeed or fail because of what you were told. And you can learn from the outcome. But when you try to listen to multiple voices telling you different things and then you try to mix them, you are almost sure to fail, IMO.
 
Here are TwoTankAmin's rescue articles -
 
When it comes to the bacterial starters the most important bacteria; strain to colonize are the Nitrospira. These bacteria can do two things of major importance in a tank. It was initially thought that they were the primary nitrite oxidizers in tanks. Then about 8 years ago it was discovered that the Nitrospira can actually oxidize ammonia straight to nitrate. These bacteria are essential to have in a cycled tank.

Now comes the problem. The Nitrospira and the method for detecting them are protected by a patent. This is held jointly between Dr, Timothy Hovanec, the maker of Dr. Tim's One and Only, and Tetra. They share the patent. So One and Only and Safe Start are the only bacterial starter products which contain Nitrospira.

The next thing to understand is when using any other starter product, their nitrite oxidizer will all die off and be replaced by Nitrospira. The thing about cycling is you almost cannot prevent it. Nature is smarter and better than we are at this stuff. The trick is for us not to harm or kill fish.

Since you have fish-in trying to cycle, I will not give you any further help as I am strongly opposed ti fish-in cycling. However, I wrote two more cycling related articles for the site. They deal with a fish-in cycle gone wild. It is in two parts. The first thing to know is you do not need to do and should not do water changes to deal with nitrite during a cycle involving fish. The reason why is fully explained in the second Rescue article.

Water changes slow a cycle. That means when fish are involved you will stress them with frequent water changes and you will cause them to be exposed to nitrite levels for no reason. Chloride in salt blocks the nitrite from entering the fish. So that means you can let the bacteria needed reproduce at the maximum rate and that means the nitrite is completely gone a lot sooner. When a fish has nitrite in it's system it takes a day or two to work it's way out. But as long as there is still nitrite in the water entering the fish, the problems caused by nitrite will persist. Block it with chloride and the fish will be fine. All you have to do is to wait for the Nitrospira to reproduce sufficiently.

The only solution for ammonia is to change water. But the thing is it matters what ppm of total ammonia one has. The lower the pH the less toxic ammonia is. Please read the Resuce articles and learn all about this stuff.

I am happy to help if you follow what its in the Resuce articles. If you want to go another route and listen to somebody else, that is fine. I will simply back off. The one thing that is for certain is that you should only listen to one voice. Shut out the rest. That way you will succeed or fail because of what you were told. And you can learn from the outcome. But when you try to listen to multiple voices telling you different things and then you try to mix them, you are almost sure to fail, IMO.
There are no fish in the 37. I am just trying to cycle it so that fish can be added safely.
 
In that case you need this one of TwoTankAmin's articles
 
There are no fish in the 37. I am just trying to cycle it so that fish can be added safely.
The 20 started a month ago was cycled with fish. This done out of ignorance and I am trying to correct that ignorance with the 37.

I applied the ammonia formula to the water in the 20 that has a light bio load and the nh3 plus nh4 result was .05. Then 3 result was 0.0141
 
At what point can I add fish. I am not against doing aggressive water changes. Oh, and the tank is a 37 not a 40. It is 22 tall by 30 by 12
Hello. I'm passing along my steps, so bear that in mind. As I say, I keep large tanks, 55 gallons and more. Once the tank has been allowed to sit for a day or two to establish the temperature, I get the fish I want and acclimate a few. Just a few, you don't want to dump a lot of fish waste into a tank without having the bacteria colony to use it. I always acclimate fish for at least an hour and add a little new tank water to the bag the fish came in every 15 to 20 minutes. After an hour or so, I lean the bag over in the tank water and allow the fish to swim out. This way, I'm not getting much fish store water in my tank.

Okay, the fish are in and beginning as soon as the fish are in, I'll remove and replace half the tank water twice weekly. I'll dose the tap water conditioner and the bacteria starter every time I perform a water change. Once I have my water change routine in place, I don't change anything. I'll follow this routine for several weeks. In a couple of months, I'll add a few more fish and continue to follow my water routine for the life of the tank. If I keep a large tank, over 30 gallons, then after a couple of months, I'll change half the water once a week and continue to dose the conditioner and bacteria starter for as long as I keep the tank running.

Here's my rule: If I keep a tank smaller than 30 gallons, I'll change half the tank water twice a week. If my tank is larger, over 30 gallons, then I'll change half the water weekly. I feed a little variety of freeze dried foods only every other day.

If you can follow this routine, you'll never need to test the water. You'll always know the chemistry is right for the fish. This is because you don't have too many fish, you don't feed too much and you're removing and replacing most of the water before the waste materials build up.

10
 
I checked the 37 this am. Ammonia and nitrates were well in bounds, ph continues hold steady at about 7.7. Nitrates are apparently off the wall at about 100 it appears.

I am guessing a large wc is the next step?
 

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