Lighting

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rickster32 said:
Hi,
Sorry to butt in on this thread, I am going to be setting up a planted tank, lighting wise I have an arcadia T5 electronic ballast 54w, what I need to know is what bulbs should I go for? I am sticking to the arcadia classica range, and have looked at the original tropical pro and plant pro high output, but which one would be best? Also do I go for 2 of the same or 1 of each? The tank has plenty of natural daylight during the day, and i have a timer for when it gets dark etc, any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
You should ask a mod to move this to a new thread.  But while I'm here, I will say that you are going to have very bright lighting.  Do you intend a high-tech method planted tank, with diffused CO2 and daily fertilization?
 
Byron said:
Hi,
Sorry to butt in on this thread, I am going to be setting up a planted tank, lighting wise I have an arcadia T5 electronic ballast 54w, what I need to know is what bulbs should I go for? I am sticking to the arcadia classica range, and have looked at the original tropical pro and plant pro high output, but which one would be best? Also do I go for 2 of the same or 1 of each? The tank has plenty of natural daylight during the day, and i have a timer for when it gets dark etc, any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
You should ask a mod to move this to a new thread.  But while I'm here, I will say that you are going to have very bright lighting.  Do you intend a high-tech method planted tank, with diffused CO2 and daily fertilization?
No, low tech, there will be no co2 etc, hence why I need the lighting correct.
 
No, low tech, there will be no co2 etc, hence why I need the lighting correct.
 
 
Two tubes were mentioned initially, so I assume two 54w tubes (this is T5 HO, HO meaning High Output).  What is the tank size3, being volume and dimensions, and how long are the tubes.  And something I will ask later, so might as well ask now...can you have just one of the two tubes light without both, or is it both or none?
 
Byron said:
No, low tech, there will be no co2 etc, hence why I need the lighting correct.
 
Two tubes were mentioned initially, so I assume two 54w tubes (this is T5 HO, HO meaning High Output).  What is the tank size3, being volume and dimensions, and how long are the tubes.  And something I will ask later, so might as well ask now...can you have just one of the two tubes light without both, or is it both or none?
Yes, it's two 54w tubes, 1150mm long, tank is 4x2x2 approx 400 ltrs. It has to be both tubes on, one will only keep running if other fails.
 
rickster32 said:
 
 

No, low tech, there will be no co2 etc, hence why I need the lighting correct.
 
Two tubes were mentioned initially, so I assume two 54w tubes (this is T5 HO, HO meaning High Output).  What is the tank size3, being volume and dimensions, and how long are the tubes.  And something I will ask later, so might as well ask now...can you have just one of the two tubes light without both, or is it both or none?
Yes, it's two 54w tubes, 1150mm long, tank is 4x2x2 approx 400 ltrs. It has to be both tubes on, one will only keep running if other fails.
 


 
OK.  This will work low-tech, if you're careful.  Thick cover of floating plants will help, and then working out the duration each 24 hour period.  This latter is a bit trial and error, as each aquarium can be very different.  I have three largish tanks with dual T8 tubes (48-inch) and I have different durations just to keep algae at bay.  You will still have quite bright light, but I think you can manage it.
 
As for the tubes themselves, I took a look at the Arcadia website and I would suggest one tube should definitely be the Freshwater Lamp here:
http://www.arcadia-aquatic.com/freshwater-lamp-t8-t5/
This one has the most natural colour rendition, it is close to mid-day sun.  I use something comparable on my tanks and the plants grow very well and the colours of fish and plants are true.
 
For the secdond lamp, you have a choice (assuming you only stay with this brand, as you mentioned initially).  Of the Original Tropical
http://www.arcadia-aquatic.com/original-tropical-lamps/
and the Plant Pro
http://www.arcadia-aquatic.com/plant-pro-lamp-t5-compact/
I would think the Original Tropical to be better.  Frankly, I would want to see both over the tank if it were mine before deciding, if that is possible (if you buy locally, stores will usually allow you to exchange/try the tubes, at least here they do).  But solely on the data given, the spectrum of the Original Tropical seems better.
 
I'll explain briefly.  Aquatic plants need red and blue to drive photosynthesis, and of these, red is the more important.  So that is why both the latter tubes say they are highest in red and blue.  However, this does not render true colours, and the light is generally less intense (not so important in your case with T5), but there is more to it than this.  Studies have shown plants respond best when green is added to the mix.  The plant colour of course is due to reflected light, so green plants reflect green light, red reflect red, etc, and thus they need more of these colours.  But the brightness when green is added to the red and blue is probably the factor that benefits, though this is a bit of a surmise.  Whatever, it works better.  I'm suggesting the OT to be better than the PP because of the red in the spectrum graph.  I myself would still want to see each with the other, over the tank.
 
Byron.
 
Byron said:
No, low tech, there will be no co2 etc, hence why I need the lighting correct.
 
Two tubes were mentioned initially, so I assume two 54w tubes (this is T5 HO, HO meaning High Output).  What is the tank size3, being volume and dimensions, and how long are the tubes.  And something I will ask later, so might as well ask now...can you have just one of the two tubes light without both, or is it both or none?
Yes, it's two 54w tubes, 1150mm long, tank is 4x2x2 approx 400 ltrs. It has to be both tubes on, one will only keep running if other fails.

 
OK.  This will work low-tech, if you're careful.  Thick cover of floating plants will help, and then working out the duration each 24 hour period.  This latter is a bit trial and error, as each aquarium can be very different.  I have three largish tanks with dual T8 tubes (48-inch) and I have different durations just to keep algae at bay.  You will still have quite bright light, but I think you can manage it.
 
As for the tubes themselves, I took a look at the Arcadia website and I would suggest one tube should definitely be the Freshwater Lamp here:
http://www.arcadia-aquatic.com/freshwater-lamp-t8-t5/
This one has the most natural colour rendition, it is close to mid-day sun.  I use something comparable on my tanks and the plants grow very well and the colours of fish and plants are true.
 
For the secdond lamp, you have a choice (assuming you only stay with this brand, as you mentioned initially).  Of the Original Tropical
http://www.arcadia-aquatic.com/original-tropical-lamps/
and the Plant Pro
http://www.arcadia-aquatic.com/plant-pro-lamp-t5-compact/
I would think the Original Tropical to be better.  Frankly, I would want to see both over the tank if it were mine before deciding, if that is possible (if you buy locally, stores will usually allow you to exchange/try the tubes, at least here they do).  But solely on the data given, the spectrum of the Original Tropical seems better.
 
I'll explain briefly.  Aquatic plants need red and blue to drive photosynthesis, and of these, red is the more important.  So that is why both the latter tubes say they are highest in red and blue.  However, this does not render true colours, and the light is generally less intense (not so important in your case with T5), but there is more to it than this.  Studies have shown plants respond best when green is added to the mix.  The plant colour of course is due to reflected light, so green plants reflect green light, red reflect red, etc, and thus they need more of these colours.  But the brightness when green is added to the red and blue is probably the factor that benefits, though this is a bit of a surmise.  Whatever, it works better.  I'm suggesting the OT to be better than the PP because of the red in the spectrum graph.  I myself would still want to see each with the other, over the tank.
 
Byron.

Great advice, thanks very much, I will go try the tubes and see how I get on, will keep updated with progress.

Rich
 
Byron said:
It would be better for the plants and the fish if you have the period of tank light consistent, not broken into two periods [I'll come back to why momentarily].  As you are not home from 5:30 am to 6 pm (when I was working I had the same hours with the commute) it makes sense to have the tank light on when you are there to enjoy the aquarium.  You can set the timer to turn the light on during the day, say 12 noon or 1:00 pm, and off at say 8 pm or 9 pm, depending upon your schedule.  There are two things to keep in mind.
 
The room must not be in darkness when the tank lighting comes on or goes off, so you want ambient room light whether from a window during the day or artificial lighting at night.  And this ambient lighting needs to be present for at least half an hour before the tanklighting comes on and at least half an hour after it goes off.  This avoids shocking the fish with sudden light/darkness which is not natural.  You are aiming to provide a sort of dawn and dusk as in nature.
 
Second, there must be a period of continuous complete darkness during each 24 hours.  This is the period during which the fish's biological processes slow, and the fish relaxes.  It is the same as our sleep.  So in the example above, this would be from 9 or 10 pm (after the tank lighting and all ambient room lighting is off and the room is in total darkness) until dawn when daylight may enter via a window.  The reason for this has to do with the reason you should not have the "daylight" broken up.
 
Fish, like all animals, have what is called the circadian rhythm, a sort of biological clock that runs on a 24-hour period.  Plants have a very similar reactive response to light.  The circadian rhythm is governed by light.  Not only do the eyes perceive light, but cells do as well; this is why we experience jet lag, and there are problems when daylight savings time occurs.  In fish this light/dark is even greater; every cell on their body reacts to light and dark.  Once you are regular with the tank lighting, you will quickly observe that the fish will come to "expect" the light coming on and going off.  That is because of the circadian rhythm.  Experiments with blind fish have proven that this response does not depend upon the fish's eyesight, but because every cell is affected by light and dark.
 
This is why the period of "daylight" when the tank lighting is on should always be continuous, and roughly the same every day.  It makes the fish's life much simpler, as they can save energy for more important things, as there is less stress when everything occurs the same day after day.  I know some high-tech planted tank aquarists will suggest the siesta approach, of having the tank lighting on for say 4 hours, off for 3-4, then on for another 4 hours.  But biologically this is harmful to the fish.  The plants will be affected too, but plants can adjust to varying periods whereas fish cannot, at least if we want them to be in the best health.
 
If algae is a problem, reducing the "daylight" period is the best way to deal with this, though sometimes an excess of fertilizers can cause algae too.  But sort out the light/nutrient balance rather than jumping into something that will be stressful to the fish.
 
Byron.
Sorry to jump in. People use blue lighting in the evening would this class as the fading period if that makes sense. Only as I run white leds got a blue strip led that I have running as well just for different light but turn them both off together. When I turn lights off my front room light is on for a good hour or two after anyway. Sorry for the essay question lol [emoji2]

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
Sorry to jump in. People use blue lighting in the evening would this class as the fading period if that makes sense. Only as I run white leds got a blue strip led that I have running as well just for different light but turn them both off together. When I turn lights off my front room light is on for a good hour or two after anyway. Sorry for the essay question lol [emoji2]

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Partly. The blue (usually termed moon light) will be less intense than the main white light on the tank. But when the blue goes out, the room should still have ambient lighting for 30 minutes or more.
 

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