Algae Accumulation on Glass and Rocks - insane levels every two weeks.

[JPMcQueen]

So, like a lot of people here I'm facing a constant battle with algae. I've attached a couple of photos that show the state of my tank and the amount of algae that is accumulating on the glass and rocks. The tank isn't usually this barren, I was in the middle of tearing it down to clean it....again.

To get to this level on the glass is weekly and the rocks about every two weeks.

It's a 550L tank and I'm doing weekly changes of about 15-20% using RODI water cut about 50% with tap water treated with Seachem Prime.

I've managed to make some inroads into dealing with the problem by reducing the lighting in the tank by having the lights on only for 1 hour a day but it's still a problem. I think the tank is getting a lot of natural light as it's positioned about three meters directly behind the French doors and so the aquarium lights are just making the situation worse.

Anyone got any ideas as to what else I can do?

 

[10 Tanks]

So, like a lot of people here I'm facing a constant battle with algae. I've attached a couple of photos that show the state of my tank and the amount of algae that is accumulating on the glass and rocks. The tank isn't usually this barren, I was in the middle of tearing it down to clean it....again.

To get to this level on the glass is weekly and the rocks about every two weeks.

It's a 550L tank and I'm doing weekly changes of about 15-20% using RODI water cut about 50% with tap water treated with Seachem Prime.

I've managed to make some inroads into dealing with the problem by reducing the lighting in the tank by having the lights on only for 1 hour a day but it's still a problem. I think the tank is getting a lot of natural light as it's positioned about three meters directly behind the French doors and so the aquarium lights are just making the situation worse.

Anyone got any ideas as to what else I can do?

Hello JP. I love algae. You won't find a better natural water filter. I just scrape it off the front glass, so I can see into the tanks. The rest I allow to grow. Sure helps keep the tank water clean and clear. If it's a bother, just change a lot of tank water and change it every week, Reduce the amount you feed and introduce some Plecos or Corydoras. Ramshorn snails will also help keep the algae in check as will floating plants like Anacharis, Hornwort and Dwarf Water Lettuce.

10 Tanks (Now 11)

 

[CaptainBarnicles]

Can you put some blinds up?

 

[Naughts]

It's a 550L tank and I'm doing weekly changes of about 15-20% using RODI water cut about 50% with tap water

Why is it such a small percentage of water being changed? How come you use RO?
My initial thought is that the tank needs moving.

 

[Byron]

First, because there are no live plants, you will always have algae. Assuming you have light, and the fish remain in the tank and are fed. Nutrients will feed the algae with no plants to use them faster (goldfish, I know, but you might try some sturdy plants that fish will not eat), and in the presence of light. Even very little light will still promote algae.

Water changes must be substantially larger, this is simply not enough for these fish. Goldfish produce a lot of waste, and you need to change 60-70% of the tank volume once a week.

Reduce the light duration, maybe the intensity (?), but along with this you can also get floating "plants" that can b artificial, they will reduce the tank lighting encouraging algae. Ambient light in the room is also very important, especially in summer when the daylight is longer and stronger.

Be careful not to overfeed. Fish appear hungry, that is normal, but they do not need a lot of food.

 

[Back in the fold]

The Goldfish are your culprit. They produce a lot of waste that absolutely must be kept in check with large frequent water changes. As a benefit to that they will be healthier.

 

[sharkweek178]

First, because there are no live plants, you will always have algae. Assuming you have light, and the fish remain in the tank and are fed. Nutrients will feed the algae with no plants to use them faster (goldfish, I know, but you might try some sturdy plants that fish will not eat), and in the presence of light. Even very little light will still promote algae.

Water changes must be substantially larger, this is simply not enough for these fish. Goldfish produce a lot of waste, and you need to change 60-70% of the tank volume once a week.

Reduce the light duration, maybe the intensity (?), but along with this you can also get floating "plants" that can b artificial, they will reduce the tank lighting encouraging algae. Ambient light in the room is also very important, especially in summer when the daylight is longer and stronger.

Be careful not to overfeed. Fish appear hungry, that is normal, but they do not need a lot of food.

Anarcharis is good because it's easy and grows faster than the goldfish can eat it.

 

[Colin_T]

Add a heap of duckweed (small floating plant) to the tank. It will reduce light getting onto the glass and give the goldfish something to eat.

 

[JPMcQueen]

Thanks. I'll increase the size of the water changes, I've always done around 20% as that's typically what everyone recommends.

The use of RODI water is because I live in a very hard water area, its off the scale when tested, along with high silicates. The water cutting is just to reduce it to a tolerable level.

Plants are a difficult one. Over the years I must have tried nearly every type of plant going, even those that are supposed to be Goldfish proof and they've demolished them.

Reducing lighting would be difficult given I'm at only 1 hour per day of tank lighting. If I introduce plants, I may need more?

 

[Colin_T]

Goldfish are mainly vegetarian and will eat any plants you add to the tank. They need the plant matter to remain healthy so if you don't add live plants, try to feed them some zucchini, cucumber, pumpkin or spinach each day. Just make sure it's free of chemicals.

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You do water changes for a number of reasons.
1) to reduce nutrients like ammonia, nitrite & nitrate.
2) to dilute disease organisms in the water.
3) to keep the pH, KH and GH stable. Unlikely to be an issue with your hard water.
4) to dilute nitric acid produced by fish food and waste breaking down.
5) to dilute stress chemicals (pheromones/ allomones) released by the fish.
6) to dilute un-used plant fertiliser so you don't overdose the fish when you add more (for people that use plant fertilisers).
7) to remove fish waste and other rotting organic matter.

Fish live in a soup of microscopic organisms including bacteria, fungus, viruses, protozoans, worms, flukes and various other things that make your skin crawl. Doing a big water change and gravel cleaning the substrate on a regular basis will dilute these organisms and reduce their numbers in the water, thus making it a safer and healthier environment for the fish.

If you do a 25% water change each week you leave behind 75% of the bad stuff in the water.
If you do a 50% water change each week you leave behind 50% of the bad stuff in the water.
If you do a 75% water change each week you leave behind 25% of the bad stuff in the water.

Fish live in their own waste. Their tank and filter is full of fish poop. The water they breath is filtered through fish poop. Cleaning filters, gravel and doing big regular water changes, removes a lot of this poop and harmful micro-organisms, and makes the environment cleaner and healthier for the fish.

 

[Essjay]

I've always done around 20% as that's typically what everyone recommends.

Not on here . The usual recommendation on this forum is at least 50% every week, preferably more with goldfish.