1 of my fish is only swimming at surface of the water

The April FOTM Contest Poll is open!
FishForums.net Fish of the Month
🏆 Click to vote! 🏆

jdyn90

New Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Hello,

I have a 10 gallon tank with 6 Pseudomugil Furcatus and several plants. This is my first aquarium. I got the fish from a nearby fish store last week, and I think they've been well. They've been active, eating, and such. However, today one of the fish has spent most of his day at the surface of the water just hovering there, and it seems something is wrong.

I tested the water this afternoon and the parameters are:

Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: Between 5 and 10 ppm
pH: 7.0

I tried a 20% water change and it didn't seem to help at all.

Here's a pic of my tank and a short vid of the fish after. The fish in question is the one swimming at the top of the water.

UFcqcKa.jpg



Thanks
 
The fish didn't make it :( dead this morning. If anyone has insight please let me know!
 
There are a couple of possibilities when a single fish out of a group has difficulty and dies soon after acquisition.

I would rule out cycling issues here, as the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate test results do not suggest this at all, and there are live plants which frankly would make cycling issues impossible with just six small fish.

A fish may be damaged during netting and transport, or there could be a genetic issue. Bullying from other fish (there is a male in the video harassing this fish but this is part of the species' natural interaction though it could get nasty). Significant differences in water parameters between the bag (store) water and your tank water might be a factor, though the others being OK would tend to discount this.

Moving forward, if you can acquire a few more it would be good. This is a shoaling species and a group of 8-9 would be better than the (now) five. I realize this is a 10g tank which is perhaps a bit small, but the fish will be overall better with a slightly larger group.

Some floating plants would also benefit the fish. And for the background, something as simple as black non-glossy construction paper would work well. Both of these would make quite a difference to the fish, and your enjoyment of them.

More data on this species:
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/pseudomugil-furcatus/
 
Did the fish appear fat and bloated?
Did the fish eat?
Did the fish have a stringy white poop?

If the fish stopped eating, started breathing heavily/ gasping at the surface or near a filter outlet, and became really fat overnight, and did a stringy white poop, then it had an internal bacterial infection, possibly TB.

If the fish continued to eat then it could have been a fungus or bacterial infection in the gills.

You should increase the aeration in the tank.

--------------------------
If rainbowfish ever get sick, do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate. Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank. Then add salt.

You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate will affect some plants. The lower dose rate will not affect plants.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that.
 
Last edited:
Moving forward, if you can acquire a few more it would be good. This is a shoaling species and a group of 8-9 would be better than the (now) five. I realize this is a 10g tank which is perhaps a bit small, but the fish will be overall better with a slightly larger group.

This is good to hear as I've been wanting a few more females (only 1 female now). My fish store doesn't have any more of my fish but I've requested they get some more.

Some floating plants would also benefit the fish. And for the background, something as simple as black non-glossy construction paper would work well. Both of these would make quite a difference to the fish, and your enjoyment of them.

I'll look at getting some floating plants, I haven't found any that I particularly like yet. Does having a background affect fish behavior? Right now the tank is in a place where it can be viewed from all sides, so I didn't put in any background for it.

Did the fish appear fat and bloated?
Did the fish eat?
Did the fish have a stringy white poop?

I am not sure if the fish ate actually. I was so concerned with researching the issue and water changing that I didn't think to feed him that evening. In hindsight I should have tried to. The fish did not appear fat/bloated, and I didn't notice any stringy white poop around the tank.

You should increase the aeration in the tank.

Yeah I've been looking at getting an airstone. Do you think it is necessary? There's some bubbles caused by the water coming out of the filter. It is pretty minimal but I'm not sure how much the fish are bothered.

Thanks for your advice regarding the salt, I'll refer to this next time I notice a sick fish.
 
Fish living in a glass aquarium without a background or substrate stress out and show poor colouration. You have gravel and that definitely helps but the fish would be happier with something on the back of the tank.

Most fish and certainly all freshwater fish naturally occur in environments that have a bottom, sides (usually earth banks or tree roots) and the surface. When you have them in a glass tank they can see through the glass but can't swim through it. This can make them uncomfortable and nervous so adding a picture/ backing to the tank can make a huge difference to their health (reduces stress levels).

You can buy plastic pictures from petshops, they have them on rolls and sell them by the foot. Or you can use coloured card, newspaper, plastic bin liner, or anything that makes the back of the tank appear like a solid object. You just sticky tape the paper or plastic backing to the outside of the tank and it's done. Dark coloured backings show up fish the best and black, dark blue and dark green are the most common but it comes down to what you like. Just try to get a backing for the tank.

--------------------------
Floating plants help most fish by making them feel more secure. In the wild fish get attacked by birds flying above the water. Floating plants provide somewhere to hide and reduce the chance of birds seeing and attacking the fish. Even tho your fish are inside in an aquarium, they still think the same way, (birds above will eat us, so hide under plants).

Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides/ cornuta) is a good floating plant and it can also be grown in the gravel. It grows fast and if you get 1 or 2 plants they will quickly spread across the surface and you can start planting them in the gravel, or sell them back to the pet shop.

Rainbowfish will lay their eggs in the roots of floating plants and Water Sprite has a really good root system for this. Pseudomugil furcatus and connieae only produce 1 or 2 eggs per day but the eggs are big and can be seen on the plants roots. The plant or plant roots with eggs can be cut off the plant and put into a hatching container and the fry can be grown up and added back to the colony when old enough.

The following link has info about breeding fish and culturing live foods for baby fish.
http://www.fishforums.net/threads/back-to-basics-when-breeding-fish.448304/#post-3790221

--------------------------
As far as I'm concerned, airstones bubbling away in aquariums are essential to maximise the oxygen levels in the water. Without an airstone bubbling away, fish can suffer or even suffocate from low oxygen levels caused by a build up of carbon dioxide (CO2) that comes from the fish, as well as bacteria living in the filter, substrate and tank, and the plants when there is no light for them to photosynthesise.

The only tank that shouldn't have an airstone bubbling away is a planted tank that gets supplemental CO2 when the tank lights are on. In this type of tank the airstone drives out the excess CO2 and the plants don't do as well. But even these tanks can have problems at night when the lights go out so the CO2 needs to be turned off when the lights go out or an airstone needs to come on after lights out so the fish don't suffocate. In every other aquarium that is not getting supplemental CO2, an airstone should be used continuously.
 
I'll look at getting some floating plants, I haven't found any that I particularly like yet. Does having a background affect fish behavior? Right now the tank is in a place where it can be viewed from all sides, so I didn't put in any background for it.

Colin has also responded to this issue, and I agree. A dark background to an aquarium will always result in less stress to the fish. As will a darkish substrate. For the background, plain non-glossy black construction paper is ideal as it makes the tank look larger and the colours of fish and plants will be more obvious.
 

Most reactions

trending

Staff online

Back
Top