This thread outlines helpful steps and hints for conducting an ADD AND WAIT FISHLESS CYCLE. This list attempts to address the most common questions we see here on the forum. However, every cycle can be different, and your mileage may vary.
The biggest favor you can do for yourself is to create a fishless cycle log in the "Your New Freshwater Tank" forum. Please include your username in the title to make it easier for forum members to differentiate threads in their head when they check for new posts. (such as "Greenville Guy's Fishless Cycle Log") Then "edit" your initial post as you go and update it with your test results. Post any concerns/questions as new posts in the thread.
DO THE PREPARATION:
1. Raise your tank temperature to 29C/84F.
2. IF your pH level is in the 6.0 to 6.4 range (or if it drops that low during the cycle), prepare to raise the pH level with water changes or artificially (by adding baking soda). When pH drops that low, the bacteria stop reproducing. The recommended upper limit for pH during the cycle would be 8.0 - 8.4 (that is the sweet spot that the bacteria seem to prefer)
In the USA, just use Arm & Hammer Baking Soda, and in the UK, bicarbonate of soda. Experiment adding tsp or tbspns until you figure out how much you need. Get it too high? Water change it back down.
3. If you have an air pump, add an air stone to the tank, even if you don’t plan to use it once you have fish. Or if you have a Hang on Back filter, lower the tank water level an inch or so to increase surface agitation. This increases the level of dissolved oxygen – bacteria like it!
4. Get a good quality water test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, low and high pH. If you get the API Freshwater Master kit, it will give you hundreds of tests for the money, and most people on this forum are familiar with those tests if you need help.
5. Keep your tank lights off (unless you have live plants). Bacteria don’t need it, but algae would love to take over your tank at this point, and keeping light to a minimum will help prevent it.
6. PREPARE TO BE PATIENT. You should wait for the process to work. It will, eventually. And, yes, it can take many weeks sometimes. (mine took 72 days)
START THE CYCLE – AMMONIA PHASE:
1. Make sure your tank has been running for a day or so with all the equipment (heater, filter, bubbles) and DECHLORINATED water. Some users add dechlorinator to the bucket as the water fills it. Others put dechlorinator into the tank itself prior to adding the water. Either way, you might want to let the dechlorinated water settle and mix for a few minutes before turning the filter back on.
2. Important FILTER MEDIA information: chemical filter media - CARBON - is not recommended to use during your fishless cycle. You normally only need to use carbon media to remove medicine or other chemicals, and it can be placed in the filter as needed later on, after the cycle. Unless it is in the form of a sponge, this type of media saturates and needs replacing after 4-6 weeks (in most cases), and, upon replacing it, you could be discarding a lot of helpful bacteria that have colonized the cartridge! It is better to use mechanical and bio-media such as ceramic pellets and sponges rather than carbon.
Getting a bit of already cycled media from someone else's tank can help give a good kick-start to your cycle. Just make sure the media you are getting has not dried out - it still needs to be wet.
3. Use pure ammonia to raise the ammonia level to 4-5 ppm. In the USA, you can get Janitorial Strength Ammonia (10%) at ACE Hardware; in the UK you can order it in at Boots. (you want to find ammonia that just has ammonia and water – no additives like detergents or scents)
4. Test ammonia daily, and log your results. When the level drops to 1 ppm or less, dose more ammonia to raise it back up to 4-5 ppm.
5. The time it takes ammonia to drop to zero will decrease as your bacteria colonies multiply.
6. Test and log your pH every few days to make sure it is not crashing to the 6.0 zone, and also test nitrites, nitrates and note the tank temperature at the same time.
When you get your first ammonia drop to zero, start testing for nitrites more often.
TWEAK THE CYCLE – NITRITE PHASE:
1. Once you see a spike in the nitrite level (literally off the chart - a color not on your test card), reduce the level of ammonia “top-offs” to 2-3 ppm rather than 4-5 ppm.
2. The nitrite phase, when the nitrite-processing bacteria are growing, can take much longer than the ammonia phase – in the range of twice as long.
3. Once your nitrite level drops to zero for the first time, you can raise the ammonia level “top-offs” back to 4-5 ppm.
4. You should also see a rise in the level of nitrates due to the processing of nitrites. Don't worry about the nitrates at this time.
FINISH THE CYCLE: You want to reach the point where you are:
1. Testing for ammonia and nitrite at 12 hour intervals (so twice per day), and they should be zero.
2. Feeding ammonia into the tank ONLY every 24 hours.
3. Run for seven days like this, with zero stats, and you are ready for fish!
4. You should continue to "feed" ammonia into the tank until you are ready to add fish. PRIOR to adding fish, you will do a 100% water change (dechlorinated, etc.) to remove as much of the nitrates as possible. Then let the tank heat back up to the desired temperature.
DO NOT:
1. DO NOT stock fish after your first ammonia/nitrite drop to zero in 12 hours. Try to hold out and let the tank settle in for an extra 7 days after.
2. DO NOT be afraid to do water changes as needed during the cycle, as long as you DECHLORINATE the new water going in. (perhaps you overdosed ammonia, or pH is too high, or there is a bacterial bloom not clearing up – go ahead and water change when needed)
3. DO NOT clean your filter during the cycle unless water flow is reduced by debris. If you must clean, just gently clean media in a bucket of tank water.
4. DO NOT worry about missing a day or two of adding ammonia to the tank. You will not lose many bacteria if that happens.
5. DO NOT worry about how high nitrates get during the cycle. You will take care of them at the end before you add fish.
6. DO NOT change out your cycled filter media per the filter manufacturers' recommendations!!! They want to make money. They don't care that swapping out your media can cause your tank to cycle again. Leave your media in the filter for as long as it lasts - until it begins to degrade. You should clean the filter periodically, gently rinsing your media in a bucket of tank water to remove visible gunk and waste. When it comes time to swap some media, do it in phases. For example, buy a new sponge and cut it in half and just replace half of the mature sponge that is in the filter. Give the new sponge time to colonize before swapping the other half.
INITIAL STOCK:
DO make your own decision about how many fish to stock at once. You will get a broad sprectrum of answers to this question – 50%, 80%, 100%. Your tank is cycled enough to handle more than a full load of fish, however, new tanks are prone to fluctuations in water quality without much warning. “New tank syndrome” can kill some fish that would otherwise handle being introduced into a mature tank. Also, any time you get new fish there is the possibility that those fish will bring disease into the tank that might not show up for several weeks. Only you can decide what you want to do after you look at all considerations.
Another thing for you to remember: look up threads regarding acclimating fish to your new tank - this is a CRITICAL transition that, if handled properly, results in happy fish and humans rather than a disaster.
BE RESPONSIBLE
Guess what? You are a fish keeper now. Congratulations! Guess what? You have responsibilities now!! To those shiny little critters in your shiny tank.
1. It is YOUR responsibility to research EVERY fish BEFORE purchasing it.
2. You are no longer allowed impulse buys. Nope - don't do it. That fish might look awesome (
), but do you know enough about it?
3. You need to research and make certain the adult version of your fish will fit in the tank and be compatible with your other fish.
(stepping off the soap box now - thanks to Karin for this)
Thanks to all the fish geeks that helped me finalize this list! Kporteo, Karin, Aqua Tom, Warehouse, Skins, Guppi, Doc7, and Waterdrop (no shock there).
Greenville Guy
February 2011
MISC NOTES:
AMMONIA: Per Aqua Tom, here is the product you want from Boots (let me know if this link gets outdated):
Ammonia at Boots
MEDIA MYTHS:
1. I personally do not recommend using gravel from another tank to kick start your cycle. The VAST majority of bacteria colonize the filter media. The substrate is vacuumed every week with your water changes (right?
) , so I am skeptical that used gravel helps much. And you are introducing dirt and possible problems to your shiny new tank.
2. Used water from another tank is doubtful to provide any bacteria colonies, either. And, again, you are introducing possible problems (disease) into your tank.
The biggest favor you can do for yourself is to create a fishless cycle log in the "Your New Freshwater Tank" forum. Please include your username in the title to make it easier for forum members to differentiate threads in their head when they check for new posts. (such as "Greenville Guy's Fishless Cycle Log") Then "edit" your initial post as you go and update it with your test results. Post any concerns/questions as new posts in the thread.
DO THE PREPARATION:
1. Raise your tank temperature to 29C/84F.
2. IF your pH level is in the 6.0 to 6.4 range (or if it drops that low during the cycle), prepare to raise the pH level with water changes or artificially (by adding baking soda). When pH drops that low, the bacteria stop reproducing. The recommended upper limit for pH during the cycle would be 8.0 - 8.4 (that is the sweet spot that the bacteria seem to prefer)
In the USA, just use Arm & Hammer Baking Soda, and in the UK, bicarbonate of soda. Experiment adding tsp or tbspns until you figure out how much you need. Get it too high? Water change it back down.
3. If you have an air pump, add an air stone to the tank, even if you don’t plan to use it once you have fish. Or if you have a Hang on Back filter, lower the tank water level an inch or so to increase surface agitation. This increases the level of dissolved oxygen – bacteria like it!
4. Get a good quality water test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, low and high pH. If you get the API Freshwater Master kit, it will give you hundreds of tests for the money, and most people on this forum are familiar with those tests if you need help.
5. Keep your tank lights off (unless you have live plants). Bacteria don’t need it, but algae would love to take over your tank at this point, and keeping light to a minimum will help prevent it.
6. PREPARE TO BE PATIENT. You should wait for the process to work. It will, eventually. And, yes, it can take many weeks sometimes. (mine took 72 days)
START THE CYCLE – AMMONIA PHASE:
1. Make sure your tank has been running for a day or so with all the equipment (heater, filter, bubbles) and DECHLORINATED water. Some users add dechlorinator to the bucket as the water fills it. Others put dechlorinator into the tank itself prior to adding the water. Either way, you might want to let the dechlorinated water settle and mix for a few minutes before turning the filter back on.
2. Important FILTER MEDIA information: chemical filter media - CARBON - is not recommended to use during your fishless cycle. You normally only need to use carbon media to remove medicine or other chemicals, and it can be placed in the filter as needed later on, after the cycle. Unless it is in the form of a sponge, this type of media saturates and needs replacing after 4-6 weeks (in most cases), and, upon replacing it, you could be discarding a lot of helpful bacteria that have colonized the cartridge! It is better to use mechanical and bio-media such as ceramic pellets and sponges rather than carbon.
Getting a bit of already cycled media from someone else's tank can help give a good kick-start to your cycle. Just make sure the media you are getting has not dried out - it still needs to be wet.
3. Use pure ammonia to raise the ammonia level to 4-5 ppm. In the USA, you can get Janitorial Strength Ammonia (10%) at ACE Hardware; in the UK you can order it in at Boots. (you want to find ammonia that just has ammonia and water – no additives like detergents or scents)
4. Test ammonia daily, and log your results. When the level drops to 1 ppm or less, dose more ammonia to raise it back up to 4-5 ppm.
5. The time it takes ammonia to drop to zero will decrease as your bacteria colonies multiply.
6. Test and log your pH every few days to make sure it is not crashing to the 6.0 zone, and also test nitrites, nitrates and note the tank temperature at the same time.
When you get your first ammonia drop to zero, start testing for nitrites more often.
TWEAK THE CYCLE – NITRITE PHASE:
1. Once you see a spike in the nitrite level (literally off the chart - a color not on your test card), reduce the level of ammonia “top-offs” to 2-3 ppm rather than 4-5 ppm.
2. The nitrite phase, when the nitrite-processing bacteria are growing, can take much longer than the ammonia phase – in the range of twice as long.
3. Once your nitrite level drops to zero for the first time, you can raise the ammonia level “top-offs” back to 4-5 ppm.
4. You should also see a rise in the level of nitrates due to the processing of nitrites. Don't worry about the nitrates at this time.
FINISH THE CYCLE: You want to reach the point where you are:
1. Testing for ammonia and nitrite at 12 hour intervals (so twice per day), and they should be zero.
2. Feeding ammonia into the tank ONLY every 24 hours.
3. Run for seven days like this, with zero stats, and you are ready for fish!
4. You should continue to "feed" ammonia into the tank until you are ready to add fish. PRIOR to adding fish, you will do a 100% water change (dechlorinated, etc.) to remove as much of the nitrates as possible. Then let the tank heat back up to the desired temperature.
DO NOT:
1. DO NOT stock fish after your first ammonia/nitrite drop to zero in 12 hours. Try to hold out and let the tank settle in for an extra 7 days after.
2. DO NOT be afraid to do water changes as needed during the cycle, as long as you DECHLORINATE the new water going in. (perhaps you overdosed ammonia, or pH is too high, or there is a bacterial bloom not clearing up – go ahead and water change when needed)
3. DO NOT clean your filter during the cycle unless water flow is reduced by debris. If you must clean, just gently clean media in a bucket of tank water.
4. DO NOT worry about missing a day or two of adding ammonia to the tank. You will not lose many bacteria if that happens.
5. DO NOT worry about how high nitrates get during the cycle. You will take care of them at the end before you add fish.
6. DO NOT change out your cycled filter media per the filter manufacturers' recommendations!!! They want to make money. They don't care that swapping out your media can cause your tank to cycle again. Leave your media in the filter for as long as it lasts - until it begins to degrade. You should clean the filter periodically, gently rinsing your media in a bucket of tank water to remove visible gunk and waste. When it comes time to swap some media, do it in phases. For example, buy a new sponge and cut it in half and just replace half of the mature sponge that is in the filter. Give the new sponge time to colonize before swapping the other half.
INITIAL STOCK:
DO make your own decision about how many fish to stock at once. You will get a broad sprectrum of answers to this question – 50%, 80%, 100%. Your tank is cycled enough to handle more than a full load of fish, however, new tanks are prone to fluctuations in water quality without much warning. “New tank syndrome” can kill some fish that would otherwise handle being introduced into a mature tank. Also, any time you get new fish there is the possibility that those fish will bring disease into the tank that might not show up for several weeks. Only you can decide what you want to do after you look at all considerations.
Another thing for you to remember: look up threads regarding acclimating fish to your new tank - this is a CRITICAL transition that, if handled properly, results in happy fish and humans rather than a disaster.
BE RESPONSIBLE
Guess what? You are a fish keeper now. Congratulations! Guess what? You have responsibilities now!! To those shiny little critters in your shiny tank.
1. It is YOUR responsibility to research EVERY fish BEFORE purchasing it.
2. You are no longer allowed impulse buys. Nope - don't do it. That fish might look awesome (
), but do you know enough about it?3. You need to research and make certain the adult version of your fish will fit in the tank and be compatible with your other fish.
(stepping off the soap box now - thanks to Karin for this)
Thanks to all the fish geeks that helped me finalize this list! Kporteo, Karin, Aqua Tom, Warehouse, Skins, Guppi, Doc7, and Waterdrop (no shock there).
Greenville Guy
February 2011
MISC NOTES:
AMMONIA: Per Aqua Tom, here is the product you want from Boots (let me know if this link gets outdated):
Ammonia at Boots
MEDIA MYTHS:
1. I personally do not recommend using gravel from another tank to kick start your cycle. The VAST majority of bacteria colonize the filter media. The substrate is vacuumed every week with your water changes (right?
) , so I am skeptical that used gravel helps much. And you are introducing dirt and possible problems to your shiny new tank.2. Used water from another tank is doubtful to provide any bacteria colonies, either. And, again, you are introducing possible problems (disease) into your tank.
