White Spot(S) On Platys Mouth

[commoncarp]

I've got some platys in my cycled tank but three out of four fish have developed one or two white spot on the mouths, since Thursday I have been treating them with Myxacin (waterlife) but there is still no real improvement even though they move around healthy, I've had the 55 litre tank now for 5-6 weeks and have had no deaths. I do 25% water changes about twice a week but I haven't done any tests as didn't realise how important it was so I ordered an API Test Kit from eBay so hopefully should be with me tomorrow. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can remove this fungi from their mouths sharpish as all this medication can’t be good for the tank and I've also had to remove the filter sponges from the filter as directed by Myxacin, and after reading this site I realise now how important keeping the filter sponges in is.

I have read putting salt in the tank is great but I have neons,cherry barbs and siamese algae eater so don't think the salt would work. I have a hospital tank but no heater, could I put the sick fish in there or would the low water temp kill them???

Your advice would be appreteated as don't know what else I can do.

 

[Paradise3]

You could try soaking their food in garlic juice as it will boost their imune system and should help them fight it off. My male molly (when i had him) got fungi on his eye and i treated with myxacin it worked a treat, but about 2 weeks later he got it on his other eye and once again i treated with myxacin he lost his eye due to fungi this time. What is your tank temperature?

 

[commoncarp]

You could try soaking their food in garlic juice as it will boost their imune system and should help them fight it off. My male molly (when i had him) got fungi on his eye and i treated with myxacin it worked a treat, but about 2 weeks later he got it on his other eye and once again i treated with myxacin he lost his eye due to fungi this time. What is your tank temperature?

I have the temp at 25c, its just weird all the other fish don't have this white spot just the platys. I am going to Tescos tonight so will pickup some garlic juice.


***UPDATE, also the fish are fed mainly flakes, but also bloodworm and algae wafers.*****

 

[Paradise3]

Up the temp to about 26c as this is the highest neons and a siamese algae eater can survive in. Then you will have done as much as you can.

 

[commoncarp]

Could I use Myxazin for another 5 day course or until fungi goes but do 25% water changes every second day as dont have the filter sponges. Also should have my water stats tomorrow as Ebay have delivered the test kit.

 

[Paradise3]

Yes you can carry on with treatment and do the water changes.

 

[commoncarp]

I got my API Test Today and have the following results

nitrite 0.25
Ammonia 0
Nitrate 40
PH 7.6

I have done a 25% water change a moment ago to try and reduce the nitrite. I have identified the disease is columnaris so have put the temp down till 24c, I have lost 3 Neon Tetras, it seems I wake up and another one has died, also found a dead shrimp whilst cleaning out the tank. How long can I continue to use Myxazin as I am on day 7 and where one of the platys seems to be getting better another one doesn’t.

*******UPDATE*********

My nitrite is still at 0.25, could this be the Myxazin???

 

[Paradise3]

I found this on goodle let other people tell you whester this is wrong or not.


Disease Type:
Bacterial (gram negative rods)

Organism: Flexibacter columnaris

Names: Columnaris, Cotton-Wool, Cotton-Mouth, Flexibacter, Mouth Fungus
Description:
Often mistaken for a fungal infection because of its mold-like lesions, Columnaris is a common bacterial infection in cultured fish, particularly livebearing fish and catfish. Its name is derived from columnar shaped bacteria, which are present in virtually all aquarium environments.
The bacteria are most likely to infect fish that have been stressed by such conditions as poor water quality, inadequate diet, or handling and shipping. Columnaris can enter the fish through the gills, mouth, or via small wounds on the skin. The disease is highly contagious and may be spread through contaminated nets, specimen containers, and even food.
Columnaris can be external or internal and may follow a chronic or acute course. Lesions in chronic cases progress slowly, taking many days before culminating in fish death. In acute cases the lesions spread quickly, often wiping out entire populations of fish within hours. High water temperatures accelerate the progression of the disease; however lowering the water temp will not affect the outcome of the disease.

Symptoms:
•White spots on mouth, edges of scales, and fins

•Cottony growth that eats away at the mouth

•Fins disintegrate beginning at the edges

•'Saddleback' lesion near the dorsal fin

•Fungus often invades the affected skin

•Rapid gilling in cases where gills are infected


Treatment:
•Change water

•Vacuum gravel

•Add aquarium salt

•Treat with copper sulfate or antibiotic

•Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment

External infections should be treated with antibiotics or chemicals in the water. Copper sulfate, Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin may all be used externally to treat Columnaris. Terramycin has proven to be quite effective both as a bath, and when used to treat foods for internal infections. Salt may be added to the water to enhance gill function. Livebearers in particular will benefit from the addition of salt, however use caution when treating catfish, as many are sensitive to salt.

Prevention:
•Quarantine new fish for two weeks

•Maintain high water quality

•Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet

•Medicate fish prophylactically before moving them

•Disinfect nets and other equipment before using

Because the bacteria thrive on organic wastes, it can be controlled by regular water changes and vacuuming of the gravel. Proper diet and maintaining good water quality in general will keep the fish from being stressed and therefore susceptible to infection. To avoid spreading the bacterium, nets, specimen containers, and other aquarium equipment should be disinfected before each use. Small quantities of aquarium salt can be used to prevent disease in livebearer aquariums. When fish are being shipped or moved, they may be treated prophylactically with antibiotics or by feeding them medicated food.

Sorry it's so long.

 

[commoncarp]

I thought having fish would be an easy pet to have but my African Grey Parrot need less attention than a fish tank, I feel dishearted by the whole experience, I am not going to give up but I just hope my tank will be come easier to handle in the future I am forever chcking on all the fish doing water changes only to be getting diseases.

 

[Paradise3]

I my self have never really had any desease except the fungi that my male molly got, but that was sorted out pretty quickly. I do hope your fish get better soon.
My stats are constantly PH-6.4, ammonia-0, nitrite-0 and nitrate-20

 

[Shelby]

I thought having fish would be an easy pet to have but my African Grey Parrot need less attention than a fish tank, I feel dishearted by the whole experience, I am not going to give up but I just hope my tank will be come easier to handle in the future I am forever chcking on all the fish doing water changes only to be getting diseases.

I've discovered that the longer things go on and the older your tank gets things begin to settle down. I've lost 11 fish in the whole process and now all I have to do is vaccum my gravel once a week which ends up being about a 25% water change at the same time. I haven't lost any fish in awhile so just keep your fingers crossed until everything settles down

Good luck!

 

[Paradise3]

My tank never really had problems except when i restarted my tank which i recently did about 2-3 months ago so yeah your tank will settle down. My all time favourite fish is the guppy personally, because they produce enough fry at 1 time to fill a swimming pool. So even if a couple do ger eaten there's never less than about 10 left at least plenty to fill a tank up quickly.

Xxx~misscosmo~xxX