I was looking at rocks online and they are quite expensive. I was wondering where I can get rocks for cheap? Can I use rocks from outside after cleaning them? If so how would I clean them?
Where to get rocks?
- Thread starter connorlindeman
- Start date
I have never bought a rock. I made sure I was familiar with photos of chemically inert rock types, so that I didn't get anything that changed my water chemistry (as big a problem from a pet store as from a field). When I am in places where chemical or pesticide use is unlikely, I pick up rocks. When I get home, I rinse them with tapwater.
That's it. No problems doing that, ever. The issue is whether I can find places not ruined by my fellow humans, but there are a lot of them about.
That's it. No problems doing that, ever. The issue is whether I can find places not ruined by my fellow humans, but there are a lot of them about.
OP
OP
Thanks for the response. Any idea how long chemicals or pesticides can make a rock unusable? I have lived in this house for the last 7 years and never used pesticides. There a quite a few nice rocks, but are they safe?
You can collect safe rocks, but if there is a certain type or look you are hoping to get you can find a local fish store. Petco even sells 10 pound rock bundles of dragon stone and seiryu stone! I go to Google and search “fish store near me” or “fish store central Virginia”
OP
OP
Cool! thanks
I tend to collect on sea beaches where my chosen decor is well rinsed. Certainly, you can get specialized rocks at a store at reasonable prices, if there is a specific look you want.
The look matters, and I can't emphasize the need to have rocks that don't release minerals - that's something you should be able to control. Limestone is not good unless you are hardening water on purpose.
I avoid rocks around houses. People are just too filthy to trust!
The look matters, and I can't emphasize the need to have rocks that don't release minerals - that's something you should be able to control. Limestone is not good unless you are hardening water on purpose.
I avoid rocks around houses. People are just too filthy to trust!
OP
OP
Thanks! I'll have to find somewhere safe to get some.
Uberhoust
Fish Herder
I collect almost all the material for my tanks on my own, wood, rocks, and substrate, though I am buying more substrate lately simply for ease of collection.
The first thing you need to consider is your tank a Softwater Acidic tank or a Hardwater more Alkaline tank. If it is on the soft acidic side you may want to avoid rocks with carbonates.
Avoid for Soft Water Aquariums:
Carbonates can be found in a large number of rocks, some rocks such as shales, sandstone, mudstone, conglomerate, etc can have carbonates in the matrix between the sediment grains. In other rocks such as Limestone and Dolomite the carbonates make up the mass of the rock. Carbonates will increase the pH and KH of your water as time goes on, though depending on the rock that can be a slow increase. The best way I have found to test for carbonates is to purchase a small bottle of Muriatic Acid, you can buy it almost anywhere where they sell cement and masonry supplies. Muriatic Acid is simply a stronger solution of Hydrochloric acid, a drop on the rock should fizz strongly for presence of CaCO3 and not as vigorously for Mg(CO3)2. Muriatic acid will burn you so be a bit cautious, it will not affect polyethylene so a plastic bowl is safe for the test done inside, outside it is neutralized by the environment rapidly. I use if full strength so I am not left wondering if it fizzed or if some bubbles are escaping from the rock.
Avoid for All Aquariums:
1. Any rock from or near a mine waste pile, waste piles leach a lot of different compounds so even if the base rock is ok there could be a toxic coating on the rock that may not wash off.
2. Any rock with blue or green staining, blue and green staining is often associated with copper minerals, which can be toxic for a large number of organisms. Rocks with rust color staining I would also avoid though I have broken that rule for rocks I have a strong ID for.
3. Any rock with crystals with a metallic luster, galena is a good example, pyrites (often found in slates). These crystals are typically made of metal salts and may break down introducing the metal ions into the water.
4. Any rock collected near zones where white powdery crystals form, typically in desert regions you can get a number of areas there the rocks end up with evaporative salts. Sometimes these salts end up in the matrix of the rock.
Rocks that are Normally OK:
1. Most slates are ok as long as they don't have too many pyrite crystals, I specifically mention these because they are common.
2. Most silica based rocks, crystalline silicas like quartz and granites, or micro crystalline like jaspers, agates, obsidians.
3. Many rocks from established beaches, rivers and streams simply because the minerals that cause issues have already been leached out.
4. Many lavas, none with white or mineralization on them, more caution is required.
5. Most plutonic (cooled underground type igneous rocks), granites to gabbros.
6. Most metamorphic rocks from shale to gneiss
I mention many or most because there are always exceptions but I would state that commercially available material is not necessary safe as some think, I have frequently seen mis-identified rocks in bins at pet stores.
Overall I would select the rocks you find interesting from a clean pesticide free area then do the following:
1. try breaking similar rocks, if they break too easy it may not be good, ie some shales will crumble in your hands.
2. Examine the rock for metallic crystals, blue, green or white staining, or white fuzzy or weak crystals.
3. Test for carbonates if necessary
4. Thoroughly rinse and clean the rock. I usually treat with bleach if non-porous, or with oxygen bleach, or hydrogen peroxide if porous. (porous rocks are a bit risker). Ensure no dirt or soil remains on the rock.
I find collecting materials for my aquariums adds a new and fun dimension to the activity. Likely the majority of the rocks from your yard will be ok if treated correctly.
The first thing you need to consider is your tank a Softwater Acidic tank or a Hardwater more Alkaline tank. If it is on the soft acidic side you may want to avoid rocks with carbonates.
Avoid for Soft Water Aquariums:
Carbonates can be found in a large number of rocks, some rocks such as shales, sandstone, mudstone, conglomerate, etc can have carbonates in the matrix between the sediment grains. In other rocks such as Limestone and Dolomite the carbonates make up the mass of the rock. Carbonates will increase the pH and KH of your water as time goes on, though depending on the rock that can be a slow increase. The best way I have found to test for carbonates is to purchase a small bottle of Muriatic Acid, you can buy it almost anywhere where they sell cement and masonry supplies. Muriatic Acid is simply a stronger solution of Hydrochloric acid, a drop on the rock should fizz strongly for presence of CaCO3 and not as vigorously for Mg(CO3)2. Muriatic acid will burn you so be a bit cautious, it will not affect polyethylene so a plastic bowl is safe for the test done inside, outside it is neutralized by the environment rapidly. I use if full strength so I am not left wondering if it fizzed or if some bubbles are escaping from the rock.
Avoid for All Aquariums:
1. Any rock from or near a mine waste pile, waste piles leach a lot of different compounds so even if the base rock is ok there could be a toxic coating on the rock that may not wash off.
2. Any rock with blue or green staining, blue and green staining is often associated with copper minerals, which can be toxic for a large number of organisms. Rocks with rust color staining I would also avoid though I have broken that rule for rocks I have a strong ID for.
3. Any rock with crystals with a metallic luster, galena is a good example, pyrites (often found in slates). These crystals are typically made of metal salts and may break down introducing the metal ions into the water.
4. Any rock collected near zones where white powdery crystals form, typically in desert regions you can get a number of areas there the rocks end up with evaporative salts. Sometimes these salts end up in the matrix of the rock.
Rocks that are Normally OK:
1. Most slates are ok as long as they don't have too many pyrite crystals, I specifically mention these because they are common.
2. Most silica based rocks, crystalline silicas like quartz and granites, or micro crystalline like jaspers, agates, obsidians.
3. Many rocks from established beaches, rivers and streams simply because the minerals that cause issues have already been leached out.
4. Many lavas, none with white or mineralization on them, more caution is required.
5. Most plutonic (cooled underground type igneous rocks), granites to gabbros.
6. Most metamorphic rocks from shale to gneiss
I mention many or most because there are always exceptions but I would state that commercially available material is not necessary safe as some think, I have frequently seen mis-identified rocks in bins at pet stores.
Overall I would select the rocks you find interesting from a clean pesticide free area then do the following:
1. try breaking similar rocks, if they break too easy it may not be good, ie some shales will crumble in your hands.
2. Examine the rock for metallic crystals, blue, green or white staining, or white fuzzy or weak crystals.
3. Test for carbonates if necessary
4. Thoroughly rinse and clean the rock. I usually treat with bleach if non-porous, or with oxygen bleach, or hydrogen peroxide if porous. (porous rocks are a bit risker). Ensure no dirt or soil remains on the rock.
I find collecting materials for my aquariums adds a new and fun dimension to the activity. Likely the majority of the rocks from your yard will be ok if treated correctly.
OP
OP
thanks for the super detailed reply!
The603
Fishaholic
Excellent explanation, thank.
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