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Is the way I read test kits (but they are still not accurate lol)
Ok we get to the crux. The problem you have is algae which is why you are interested in Nitrates and Phosphates.
Lesson 1 - Forget about cheap test kits for anything other than Ph. They are not accurate enough and even if they give the correct reading it is hard for the end user to interpret the reading (colour interpretation) These kits are OK for the standard guppy, Betta keeper (no offence , I have kept guppies and Betta and still would be if it wern't for a CO2 massacre)
Lesson 2 - Phosphates and Nitrates in no way relate to algae......if the plants are using them. The thought of removing phosphates and/or nitrate to cure algae is very old school and has been proved wrong for a long while.
By looking at your pics it looks like you have loadsa light in there. You give numbers as tank measurements. Give us the US gallons.
Then tell us what type of tubes you are using T8? T5? PC? If they are standard tubes then this is the diameter in 8ths of an inch. i.e. T8 = 1 inch, T5 = 5/8ths of an inch. Also what are the wattages of the bulbs.
Are you using reflectors?
Your DC says 30ppm. Give us a few full tank shots so we can see where your filter pipes and DC and diffusor are. A decent shot of the side of the tank with the diffusor (from the side of the tank) would be useful so we can see if it circulates (pic from diffusor bottom to water surface)
The fert you link to is just trace elements. Much more important is NPK which is what you seem to be scared of. You need to dose NPK and Trace.
Take a look at this method: You will need to buy (or get hold of, nudge, nudge) and then mix them. This recipe is from the person who created the tank you see in the pics in the link. It is lean dosing so means smaller water changes (which seeing as you have cichlids like me you can do 10% twice a week or 20% twice a week rather than huge changes like with EI. It also means no danger to any fish due to the low dosing. (Remember discus are overfed and are big fish so lots of natural nutrient going to be in there too.)....My Cichlids are Blivian Rams by the way.
http
/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/PMDD.htm
So to the final crux of the point. You have discus. They are expensive fish. You are worried about the levels of N and P in your tank.
So before I get to the bad bit let me say one thing: You have discus and therfore I naturally assume you have spare cash. Buy a UV for your tank (Vecton2 300 is my suggestion for your tank-Link)
Link to cheap Vecton 300
This unit will do several things for you. It will kill algae spores that are in the water (not on the plants) therfore can prevent 'some' algae (and you will never get green water). It kills parasites that are in the water 'not on a host' and therefore will prevent a lot of sickness and expense on useless medicines. It will heat the water (it is a hot bulb) and therfore reduce your electricity bill as you will still set your heater to 28 (or wherever you set for your discus) but the heater will not be active as long as the UV will do some of th heating. Heater=250W v UV=15W. You can do the maths (on mine it saves (approx) £80 per year!!!!
Now to the bad part.
The best bet for you is first to get your NPK and then ditch the plants you have. Go for a cheap bundle of ebay (100 plants) put up photos and we will tell you which shouldnt be there and then you can let these grow (and prune them) for a few months. After you are satisfied that you have control of the parameters and have confidence that you are ready you can move onto the scape/plants you are after bit by bit. Take your time enjoy the learning curve and 'build' the tank to suit the discus.
A lot to read but I hope is some help. If UVs did nothing for my water I would still have one as it saves me electricity due to it's low voltage!!!
Andy
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