What Wrong With My Flying Fox

[bagu]

Heya guys,

i joined earlier today, and here is my tank if you want to see

thread

Thing is, i done a 30% water change, and all was well and dandy, i re-introduced my FF at around 12 o'clock.

He was acting fine, the odd swim here and there, but at around 4 ish he acted strange...

from around 4 - 7.30 he was absolutly going crazy up and down the pane of glass, he was swimming up down, then looping; he wouldn't stop

from 7.30 to about now (9.30) he is still doing it, but not as fast.

He also hasn't been eating algae as much, and not eating food =/ He was fine up till now

If i dont see a change, should i trade him in for a long finned bristlenose pleco? please keep in mind my tank size!

errr thats bout it

Thanks guys

Bagu

i almost forgot!

my Ph is 7.3
my Ammonia is 0
my nitrate is below 20ppm
my nitrite is 0

I done a 30% water change, and treated it correctly.

 

[WILDER]

How long did you climatise him for.
Darting can mean bad water quality, parasites, ph shock, stray voltage, toxins, overdose of meds.

 

[bagu]

How long did you climatise him for.
Darting can mean bad water quality, parasites, ph shock, stray voltage, toxins, overdose of meds.

well i have a kind of nano tank.

i put a rock for cover in their, he seemed perfectly fine. My tetras were in the same tub, and they are dandy XD

ermmm, i can see 2 absolutly minute snails, the water they were put in was exactly the same as the tank water.

thanks for reply buddy

 

[WILDER]

So the ph of the lfs is same as yours.
What I do is I test the bag water for ph so I no how long to climatise for.
Also you need to take the temp of the bag water to see how much difference there is in temp bag water to tank temp.
It might just be abit of stress, as fish will swim up and down the glass when stressed.

Going to leave some info on ph shock so you no what to look for.

pH Shock

As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.

It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction.

Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.

A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock -

Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production.
Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only).
If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.

Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills.
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!

 

[bagu]

So the ph of the lfs is same as yours.
What I do is I test the bag water for ph so I no how long to climatise for.
Also you need to take the temp of the bag water to see how much difference there is in temp bag water to tank temp.
It might just be abit of stress, as fish will swim up and down the glass when stressed.

Going to leave some info on ph shock so you no what to look for.

pH Shock

As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.

It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction.

Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.

A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock -

Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production.
Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only).
If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.

Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills.
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!

hey Wilder

thanks alot for help! ill check in the morning now

you have been a great help, thanks alot mate, ill keep this topic posted, just a bit panicked, as he has a great character

thanks

Bagu

 

[WILDER]

Good Luck.

 

[bagu]

Good Luck.

he is still going skitz!

 

[bagu]

he is fine now!

thanks for the help offered

 

[WILDER]

That's good news then.
Good Luck.