What Sex Are My Cories?

[MHunt]

I wouldn't worry about microworms too much. I have raised my 50ish bronze cory fry on liquifry liquid and powder, and baby brine shrimp. They are now growing out in a 10 gal aqua one 320 and doing well.

 

[K.J.]

I wouldn't worry about microworms too much. I have raised my 50ish bronze cory fry on liquifry liquid and powder, and baby brine shrimp. They are now growing out in a 10 gal aqua one 320 and doing well.

Congrats! At least I have a backup tank, I got a ten gallon donated to me a while ago. And an extra filter. Two, actually, but they're the kit filters that I don't much like. So hopefully I'd been set for a growout tank. Just watch, they won't breed.

 

[jollysue]

Your water is probably ok. If there is a male and a female they will breed. Feed them some kind of worms and shrimp when you can.

 

[K.J.]

Your water is probably ok. If there is a male and a female they will breed. Feed them some kind of worms and shrimp when you can.

I have frozen BS and BW, and come summer, I could have some mosquito larvae. I'm confused on how often to feed them, though? I've heard meaty (BW and BS) in the morning and a flake or pellet or wafer at night?

 

[jollysue]

sounds like plenty. They will love you lots! They just need to "believe" it is safe to raise a family. I suppose something in the conditions triggers the nesting instinct in the female who then releases hormones that trigger the male to stimulate the female.

 

[K.J.]

sounds like plenty. They will love you lots! They just need to "believe" it is safe to raise a family. I suppose something in the conditions triggers the nesting instinct in the female who then releases hormones that trigger the male to stimulate the female.

Well, the water stats are fine, except the nitrate is 10, but I don't think that's deathly. Well, I'm off to watch some of them, g'night.

 

[MHunt]

A nitrate of 10 is very good. That's the only part of the nitrogen cycle that isn't broken down by the bio filtration. For fry it needs to be as low as possible but for community aquariums it can be aas high as 40 or 50 without any long term problems. But i would do a water change if it gets that high.

 

[K.J.]

Well, last night the male was swimming around and would occasionally bump one of the females in the midsection, but they weren't breeding, I'm sure. Well, the male might've been trying to ( ) but the females don't have eggs. Anyway, this morning they're as perky as always, the water temperature is high, as always. But only two more days and I can get the new lights... Only problem is, it's hardly bright enough with 50 watts, will 30 be really dim? I've had those fifty watt lights since I got the kit, which was probably, like, August, are they old and is that why it looks so dim? Thanks

 

[jollysue]

Info on the aquarium for light?

Size and depth of the tank? Flourescent, compact flourescent, or incandescent lights? planted or unplanted? I would normally suggest that the wattage should be at least 1 watt per usg. If you want a planted tank it should be 2+, 3 is better. If the bulb is incandescent, invest in flourescent. Normally you can buy screw type Coral Life aquarium flourescent to replace the incandescent. I don't understand the switch from 50 watts to 30 watts. If you are planning to use lights to heat the tank, a good heater would be a better investment. The fish will suffer if the lighta are on all the time. Lights alone may cause temp fluctuations. A good heater is cheaper than lights. A heater is cheaper to run than lights.