What order to put in media basket?

[RainGamma]

So this is the tank I have.
https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/coralife-led-biocube-aquarium-led-32g

This is the media rack I use

https://intankaquatics.com/coralife-led-biocube-32-media-basket/

So do I put sponge on the first then 2nd and 3rd ( I only have carbon but might use sponge

 

[Byron]

This page gives the order, so I am assuming you intend using different media that what they indicate (which is fine).
https://intankaquatics.com/coralife-led-biocube-32-media-basket/

I assume from their drawing that the tank water enters at the bottom and travels up through the media to exit at the top back into the aquarium. You want your finest-grade media (white floss/pads) at the top because this is the last media the water should pass through. The coarser media is at the bottom. This allows large things like bits of plant leaf to be trapped by the larger media so it does not clog so easily as it would if it got caught by fine media like the white at the top. So the carbon should be in first before any sponge if you use carbon. If all you intend is sponge, then it can go in any/all of the levels.

 

[AbbeysDad]

I'm going to disagree slightly with my friend Byron. Yes, you absolutely want coarse material first, then fine material to follow. However, if you use carbon or commercial bio-media, you would have this AFTER your finest media (floss or filter pad). In this way, the carbon or bio-media sees the cleanest water and does not get as easily coated with detritus.
Having 'said' (er written) the above. if you have plants (always recommended, even if only fast growing floating plants), carbon is counter productive as it will remove nutrients (aka pollution) that the plants would otherwise use to grow.
Also, I'm not a fan of commercial bio-medias (be they ceramic, plastic, or [lava type] rocks) as I have found bio-sponge material to be an excellent platform for beneficial biology. My filters are totally filled with sponge material. The only exception is the experiments I'm doing for anoxic biocenosis filtration using clay litter and florite red.

 

[Byron]

I agree with AbbeysDad. My previous post was dealing more with clogging the filter, and having the carbon before the fine pad will mean less chance of the pad clogging which it will do very rapidly if it is trapping everything first. That was all.

 

[seangee]

The only exception is the experiments I'm doing for anoxic biocenosis filtration using clay litter and florite red.

Hey @AbbeysDad, is there a kitty litter journal going? I'm quite interested in the results because I am considering this for the garden pond

 

[AbbeysDad]

Hey @AbbeysDad, is there a kitty litter journal going? I'm quite interested in the results because I am considering this for the garden pond

Not that I'm aware of. The experiments I'm doing in a couple of my tanks are based on the research of Dr. Kevin Novak PhD. Here is a primer for reference.

 

[seangee]

Not that I'm aware of. The experiments I'm doing in a couple of my tanks are based on the research of Dr. Kevin Novak PhD. Here is a primer for reference.

I am aware of his work, and its growing popularity amongst (especially) Koi keepers - hence the kitty litter reference . I meant how is it working for you?

 

[AbbeysDad]

I am aware of his work, and its growing popularity amongst (especially) Koi keepers - hence the kitty litter reference . I meant how is it working for you?

I'm just over a month into testing and Dr. Novak advises that it takes at least two months for the anoxic faculative bacteria to establish.
In my 110g stock tank I've placed two biocenosis baskets:

On my 60g I'm using a 4L loc 'n loc canister with a Tom Aqualifter pump w/ a trickle flow:

Both use 'Special Kitty' clay litter and Seachem Flourite Red.
Time will tell.
(Apologies to the OP for the thread rob.)

 

[RainGamma]

I'm going to disagree slightly with my friend Byron. Yes, you absolutely want coarse material first, then fine material to follow. However, if you use carbon or commercial bio-media, you would have this AFTER your finest media (floss or filter pad). In this way, the carbon or bio-media sees the cleanest water and does not get as easily coated with detritus.
Having 'said' (er written) the above. if you have plants (always recommended, even if only fast growing floating plants), carbon is counter productive as it will remove nutrients (aka pollution) that the plants would otherwise use to grow.
Also, I'm not a fan of commercial bio-medias (be they ceramic, plastic, or [lava type] rocks) as I have found bio-sponge material to be an excellent platform for beneficial biology. My filters are totally filled with sponge material. The only exception is the experiments I'm doing for anoxic biocenosis filtration using clay litter and florite red.

So would this be good to do sponge first at top. Then 2nd layer would be bio balls or something

 

[AbbeysDad]

So would this be good to do sponge first at top. Then 2nd layer would be bio balls or something

In a word, no. Bio balls were developed for drip systems and don't really belong submerged as there are many other medias that offer much more surface area with internal regions.
Relative to water flow, you want a coarse foam or pad first, then a finer foam, pad, or filter floss, and then your bio-media of choice. Over the years I've lost interest in commercial medias of ceramic or lava type rock and prefer bio-sponge material.....but each to his own.
Note: I do have one DIY 5g bucket drip filter that uses nylon pot scrubbies in the drip portion of the filter. However, before the drip portion, there is foam followed by filter floss to catch detritus.