Want To Upgrade My Ugf, To A Canister Filter But.....

adracco

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I want to upgrade my Under gravel filter to a canister filter and the one I am looking at has a flow rate of 317-350 gph. Is that too much for my 30 gallon (100 liter) tank? Can it work? Also is there anything I should know about switching filters. Will that cause the tank to have to go through another cycle process.

Thanks
 
It's not too much, the more the better. It's possible it'll produce too much flow, but most canisters have an adjustable flow rate, and you can play with outlet position or spray bars to make sure your fish aren't blown around the tank.

Run both filters for 4-6 weeks, that will let bacteria colonize the new one. After that, try turning off your undergravel for a day and testing the water - if ammonia is still 0, you're good to go. Any media in the old filter can be placed in the canister, but since most of the bacteria in an undergravel colonize the gravel instead of the filter, you can probably skip that.
 
While there are no rules, there are guidelines that have built up. The most common guideline I've seen on TFF for this is 5x turnover. For your 30 gallon then, then, the guideline would recommend a turnover rate of 150 gallons per hour, with perhaps 200 as the upper end.

Common exceptions to this guideline are appropriate I believe when keeping tanks overstocked with large and/or messy fish or when running a high-tech planted tank. In fact, one sees unusual considerations from the planted tank hobbyists in that sometimes below average turnover rate is desired, for less water movement and sometimes up to 10x turnover is recommended because of CO2 or other considerations. Another exception happens when species-specific tanks are kept where it is known that the species perfer fast-moving streams or rivers, for example.

The filter you are considering, with more than twice the flow rate normally recommended, should be thought about carefully. Does it really have an effective flow adjustment? Does throttling the flow rate down have a negative effect on the life of the pump head? If you don't adjust it down, it could behave like a little fire-hose in your 30G tank. I'm not saying it won't be fine, as it may have excellent down-adjustment, and that may be just fine to use and not effect the life of the pump motor. I'm just saying you might rest easier if you check these things out and be prepared.

I don't mean to sound excessively conservative, as I agree with Corleone that there is no such thing, theoretically, as too much filtration (witness the acres of natural filtration per fish in the wild, its huge!) And much can be done with spray bar redirection. I just want you to be armed with the complete picture so that you have a chance at feeling more fully satisfied that you've thought through the options.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks for the replies. I checked out the one I wanted to buy, and turns out it didn't have a flow regulator. I don't think I would have been happy with that in my tank. Thank you for keeping me from making a bad decision. And after researching about the eheim filter, it seems the classic is going to be my first choice of filtration now. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. FishFurom rules.

Adracco
 
If you adjust the flow, always use the valve after the motor unit, or you place excessive wear on the components of the filter, as the pump has to work harder to suck against the vaccume that the pump creates in the canistor due to reduced flow into the canistor :good: Using the valve after the pump keeps the input pressure to the pump at working pressure, thus keeping wear "normal".

HTH
Rabbut

EDIT TO ADD; I allow the UGF to block over a few weeks, as this will encorage the bacteria to migrate for you :good:
 

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