Very High Ammonia

[Trina]

Me again.

My ammonia is now at 1.0 ppm, still no nitrites or nitrates. I have been changing about 20% of the water daily. As I said earlier, I have been using API Stress Zyme for almost 4 weeks (it will be 4 weeks on Sunday). I bought it in a little API starter kit that had been marked down in price, so it may be old.

I would like some suggestions please on what else to try to jump start my cycling, as my tank will be 4 weeks fishy cyclig this Sunday.

Should I buy some fresh, new API Stress Zyme?

How about the product called Cycle?

Bio Spira (no dealer nearby that I know of, even though their web site indicates that there is, so there may be a problem there)? I'd like to stay away fro Bio Sprira if at all possible due to its cost.

Please note that I have no access to any established aquariums from which to to get a bit of media.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Miss Wiggle]

this topic is about cycling with fish and should help you

in short don't buy any chemicals except dechlorinator, and keep up water changes every day until it's sorted

 

[-germ-]

I hate to be contrary to Wiggles earlier suggestion and can only speak based on my own fish in cycling experience. I'd go with wiggles experience over my lack of, but anyhow....
I'd get some seachem prime and swap to this instead of ammo-lock, i've seen countless reviews of detoxifying products and many mention unexpected spikes with ammo-lock. the only product i found that sounded suitable and reliable was seachem prime and its worked for me with no spikes.
The other thing worth trying is seachems PuriGen filter pad, you have nothing to lose by trying it out and its worked wonders for me. I assume it would prevent a build up of cycling bacteria but as long as you maintain it well (one pad in theory should last forever) it will prevent any ammonia or nitrite build up. At least it has in my experience. I'd cut any other chemicals out, they are unnecessary and expensive.
Keep up with the 20% daily changes until your tank is sorted..... and test regularly (i did 2-3 times daily) to get an early warning of any problems.
I've had my tank 6-7 weeks now, fish in cycle, no deaths (fingers crossed).
Good luck
Edit to add; not to underestimate you but i mentioned no other chemicals, obviously you still need to dechlorinate your water.... I assume you know that but better safe than sorry.

 

[Miss Wiggle]

I hate to be contrary to Wiggles earlier suggestion and can only speak based on my own fish in cycling experience. I'd go with wiggles experience over my lack of, but anyhow....

not at all, your experiences and suggestions are just as valid as mien if not more so, you have recently had a cycling tank and are therefore much more aware of the various products on the market today.

i've not had a cycling tank for 4/5 years now and as such my advise may be somewhat out of date, the method i suggest will work to control things, however there may well be things you can use now to make life easier. I can only advise based on my experiences

personally i like to keep things as natural as i can, so if i can solve something easily without the use of chemicals then i will do, but that's my personal preference.

if you've used something and found it works don't be shy of saying so, it's always good to get more than one opinion.

 

[Trina]

Thanks Miss Wiggle for the article--very informative. Also thanks to others for responding.

Today I called a chain pet store to ask if my Stress Zyme was possibly bad as it has no expiration data and is brown--did not use that today, just wondering if it is expired and maybe why I haven't started to cycle yet, as I used this prouduct faithfully per direction the first 2 weeks. They told me to stop doing daily water changes. This goes against the advice given here and seems unsafe for the fish. Why do you reckon they would tell me that?

Also, a topic on the pinned article got me to thinking: Should I add Ammo Lock to my tank to lock up the ammonia?

My readings today are Ammonia=1.0 ppm and O nitrites, did not test for nitrate today. Did about 30% water change.

Thanks in advance for help.

 

[Christine1014]

They probably told you to stop the water changes because a lot of people think the beneficial bacteria live IN the water (it doesn't. It has to live *on* something). Also, you asked about the beneficial bacteria additives you can buy. The vast majority of people will tell you they don't do anything but add trace amounts of ammonia, as there's nothing in those bottles to keep the bacteria alive. In addtion, the products can often be stored in extremely warm warehouses and high temps would kill any bacteria anywhere. The only thing that I've heard that may work is the Bio Spora, as long as it's constantly kept refrigerated (and no guarantees there). But then on the other side of the argument you hear people who absolutely swear by Cycle...

I'd say keep up with what you've been doing. Also, what kind of test kit are you using? Maybe THAT's what's gone bad? (No idea about the stress zyme thing... I've never used it).

 

[Underwurlde]

They probably told you to stop the water changes because a lot of people think the beneficial bacteria live IN the water (it doesn't. It has to live *on* something).

Agreed. This is a common fallacy: These bacteria are indeed sessile.

Simply: Up the tank temp (of you havn't done so already), monitor the levels of Ammonia, Nitrite (& later on Nitrate), water changes based on readings, stop adding useless products and then just..... wait.

You'll get there.

Andy

 

[Trina]

Thanks again.

I haven't bought a heater yet. I found one that got good ratings called Visi-Therm Automatic, it goes for about $15 at WalMart. I figure I need a 50 watt for a 5 gallon tank and that I should set it at 80 degrees F.

Questions:

1. Is Visi Therm a good brand? If not, then what is? Please note that I am on a very tight budget.
2. Is 50 watts the right size?
3. 80 degree F the right temp?
4. Will the heater burn my frogs if they run into it? They are dear, sweet, adorable creatures, but not too bright. Running into the heater might kill them as they are tiny little things.

I read something on line about putting the heater in with the filter instead of the tank, but don't know how you would do that. I have an Eclipse Bio Wheel hood/filter system. It has the filter where water runs over and then the Bio Wheel where the water runs back into the tank.

Last question:

5. Can I put the heater in with the filter? And if so, how?

 

[rdd1952]

Hey,

I'm in NC too (outside of Chapel Hill--GO HEELS!).

Well, as I am a Duke fan, you will get no more advice from me......lol. Seriously, there are suddenly a lot of Carolinians on there. We need to find a way to get everyone together somewhere. It's a shame Charlotte, Raleigh or Greensboro doesn't have a nice aquarium.

The other thing worth trying is seachems PuriGen filter pad, you have nothing to lose by trying it out and its worked wonders for me.

The only problem with these filter pads is that they remove ammonia and nitrite which you don't want. That will prevent theank from ever cycling. If you're going to use something to help out in the cycling with fish process, you need something like Ammo-lock or Prime that detoxifys them, not removes them.

 

[Trina]

Hi All,

I bought the 50 watt Visi-Therm Stealth heater at Pet Smart (if you take in something off their web site that shows the on line price, they will honor it--I got a $30 heater for $16.99). I set it at 80 degrees F. Unfortunately, my frogs seem to be attracted to it--I caught one between the aquarium wall and the heater, and he would not move until I stuck my hand in there and moved the heater. I'm going to have watch this closely tonight. Does anyone think this is dangerous?

My ammonia is at 0.5 ppm--down from 8 ppm this time last week. So much for the people at the pet store who told me not to do daily water changes! Thanks for the help with that. Still no nitrites or nitrates. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the water temp consistently at 80 will help the bacteria to grow. That is if my sweet but stupid frogs don't force me to take it out.

 

[Trina]

Well, it seems that I have to take the heater back. My frogs, especially one of them, won't leave it alone. He wants to play on the heater, sit on it, sit under it, swim all over it, etc.

I looked on line for a heater cover, but this heater is already covered with what the manufacturers calls "shatter proof thermal plastic casing". It's a really nice heater and it does a great job, but I can't cook my frogs.

Back to hoping for beneficial bacteria to grow in fluctuating temps. Oh well, it will get very hot here in North Carolina (in the American South) soon and my apartment will be at least 80-85 degrees F for 12-16 hours/day while I'm at school and work.

Does anyone have any ideas on what to do about the heater and fluctuating temps short of just taking it back and waiting until it gets hot here in May?