But again, what are you testing to measure water quality? I know nitrate is only one aspect of it, but what else can a hobbyist test to measure water quality at all?
Although some fish may be more sensitive to it (show negative signs at lower concentrations), it doesn't mean that other species are perfectly fine in it. It is still harmful, but the effects aren't as signficant short term. It simply means they won't suffer from it until later in life, after years of being in that slightly higher concentration.
You have to draw a line somehwere though, and it certainly isn't 400ppm. Any exact number may be relatively arbitrary (25ppm isn't bad while 18ppm is healthy), but without drawing the number somewhere you simply have to say 'if they are 'okay' then it is 'good enough''.