Two In A Row With Fungus!

bachina

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So, our first betta came from a local chain pet store, and honestly, we definitely were mis-informed on how to keep a tank and stress-free fish. After a week, the betta died of fungus infection after a bit of his tail was ripped off probably by a plastic plant we had in the back to hide the heater. We tried taking him out and treating him with Jungle fungus clear, and later, Mardel Maroxy (not together at the same time) but to no avail--he just kept getting worse. At the time, we also had 2 whitecloud mountain minnows who survived the moving around and cleaning of the tank to rid us of our mistakes (the betta and the minnows co-existed fine, no nipping, and minimal chasing).

Fast forward two weeks to the present. Our tank is clean, cycled, stable, fully planted, and the two minnows are swimming around happily as ever through the cycling period, and a few days after it was done cycling. It didn't take us long to figure out what we had done wrong: we weren't patient.

With everything ready and convinced that we were ready to try another betta in the tank (pictures below, and more found at this thread). We even went to a privately owned, very reputable fish store in our area (living sea aquarium, park ridge, IL) and Friday night, we picked a young looking betta, with smooth scales, active, and flared when he deemed appropriate. We acclimated the new betta by floating the bag, taking out 1/4 of the bag water, and adding in tank water every 20 minutes or so for about 2 hours, and then netted and put him in the new tank. No fish store water got in the tank (not that i think it mattered, the fish store water was just as clean as our own. they have a nice barracks setup, and do not keep bettas in cups). Satisfied, we went to sleep and all seemed well...

Saturday night, I come home to notice that he had a very faint patch of lighter colored scales near his head. I tried to look closer, but it was difficult because my tank area was not well lit, and shining a flashlight on him didn't reveal anything.

Sunday morning, I wake up to see that he's got FUZZ growing off of his underbody, near his gills! He was definitely more pale, and just liked to swim a lap around the tank, and then stick his head into the rocks in this one place that fit him quite well. I immediately net him out, swab the fuzz off his body as best as I can with a q-tip, bag and float him in a 5 gal bucket with a heater I keep prepared with clean, conditioned water as a hospital tank. The jungle fungus clear goes in, I put him in a dim room, and acclimate him the same way before I leave for church. He seems to be stable right now--not active, but not getting worse.

This is an incredible coincidence. So I ask you, betta experts: What am I doing wrong? Do I just have bad luck? Or are my bettas just hating the tank so much that they scrape themselves on rocks so that they get fungus? I've asked the fish store to test my water and it is literally perfect for bettas, or really, any sort of fish. No ammonia, no nitrite, pH of 6.8-7.0 (this is questionable, I think. My API pH test says its 7.6 or more), nitrate ~10, and crystal clear water, and cleaning up uneaten food immediately after feeding. Plenty of real plants for him to hide in, lightly aerated with an area of calm water created by a floating piece of corkwood....

My only hunch: do bettas habitually sit on the bottom, and are more easily susceptible to scratches from rough substrate/gravel? I do have some of this ceramic substrate material that came with this biOrb that feels very porous, almost like coral rock, or lava rock. It's really not that sharp, but it is rough, with the texture of something like a pumice stone (like the kind you rub your feet with, found at spas). They're the black and white larger rocks you see on the bottom.

Just a note, I did clean everything as best as I could from when the first tank and first betta got sick and I netted him out. It is my understanding that fungal spores are everywhere anyway, so even if I did sterilize everything, fungus would still be present in some amount in my tank eventually.

So confused, my confidence with bettas is shaken!

My tank:
_MG_3430.jpg


--Hans

Edit: I forgot to mention, this is a 4 US Gallon heated tank.
 
I'm sorry about your Bettas. I hope he pulls through.

Copied from BettaTalk: HERE

DISEASE: FUNGAL INFECTION

uGENERAL INFO:

If you always add aquarium salt to your betta’s water (1 teaspoon of aquarium salt per 2 1/2 Gal of water) and one drop of Aquarisol per gal, your betta will probably never get fungus. It is contagious, but bettas will more than likely recover if treated promptly.

uSYMPTOMS:
Betta has white cottony like patches on its body or head. He may be less active, may have stopped eating, fins may be clumped, color may be pale.

uTREATMENT:
Do a full jar water change. Add “Fungus Eliminator†by Jungle (included in our Betta First Aid Kit). These are crystals are dosage should be about 30-40 grains per 1/2 gal. Water should have a nice gold color, not too dark. Do not overmedicate! Change water every third day and add a new dose of same medication. Continue until all fungus has disappeared. Then switch to BettaZing (8 drops per gallon) to clean any other bacteria/fungus that may still be present.

for very stubborn or very fast invasive fungus use: Triple Sulfa AND Bettazing TOGETHER, both at full dosage. (included in our Betta First Aid Kit) - Not very many fungus can survive this powerful duo




1- Always QUARANTINE new bettas your are bringing home

2- Always keep your betta’s water clean.

3- Avoid abrupt changes of water conditions. Replace old jar water with newly prepared water with same provenance, temperature, ph, etc...

4- Always add aquarium salt to your water.

5- Don’t overcrowd your bettas

6- Don’t overfeed and especially don’t let uneaten food rot in his tank/jar.

7- Any dead fish should be immediately removed.

8- Any sick fish should be immediately isolated and treated.

9- Wash your hands!! Don’t spread infections around!!

10- Disinfect sick betta’s jars, tanks, filters, fish nets etc… (see below)

11- Don’t play God and terminate sick bettas, they often recover!! How would you have felt if your mother had shot you in the head the first time you had the flue? Yop, a little compassion has never killed anyone! Bettas are living beings and they should be treated with the utmost respect.

12- Last but not least, have a Betta First Aid Kit ready at all time!
 
I'm sorry about your Bettas. I hope he pulls through.

Copied from BettaTalk: HERE

DISEASE: FUNGAL INFECTION

uGENERAL INFO:

If you always add aquarium salt to your betta’s water (1 teaspoon of aquarium salt per 2 1/2 Gal of water) and one drop of Aquarisol per gal, your betta will probably never get fungus. It is contagious, but bettas will more than likely recover if treated promptly.

uSYMPTOMS:
Betta has white cottony like patches on its body or head. He may be less active, may have stopped eating, fins may be clumped, color may be pale.

uTREATMENT:
Do a full jar water change. Add “Fungus Eliminator†by Jungle (included in our Betta First Aid Kit). These are crystals are dosage should be about 30-40 grains per 1/2 gal. Water should have a nice gold color, not too dark. Do not overmedicate! Change water every third day and add a new dose of same medication. Continue until all fungus has disappeared. Then switch to BettaZing (8 drops per gallon) to clean any other bacteria/fungus that may still be present.

for very stubborn or very fast invasive fungus use: Triple Sulfa AND Bettazing TOGETHER, both at full dosage. (included in our Betta First Aid Kit) - Not very many fungus can survive this powerful duo




1- Always QUARANTINE new bettas your are bringing home

2- Always keep your betta’s water clean.

3- Avoid abrupt changes of water conditions. Replace old jar water with newly prepared water with same provenance, temperature, ph, etc...

4- Always add aquarium salt to your water.

5- Don’t overcrowd your bettas

6- Don’t overfeed and especially don’t let uneaten food rot in his tank/jar.

7- Any dead fish should be immediately removed.

8- Any sick fish should be immediately isolated and treated.

9- Wash your hands!! Don’t spread infections around!!

10- Disinfect sick betta’s jars, tanks, filters, fish nets etc… (see below)

11- Don’t play God and terminate sick bettas, they often recover!! How would you have felt if your mother had shot you in the head the first time you had the flue? Yop, a little compassion has never killed anyone! Bettas are living beings and they should be treated with the utmost respect.

12- Last but not least, have a Betta First Aid Kit ready at all time!

As far as I can remember, salting a tank and using Aquarisol (which is no longer sold in my area) is detrimental to plants' growth, which means I can't use it in this tank as it is fully planted. I have done my reading on BettaTalk before and after my first betta, and have treated both how BettaTalk and others have suggested. The only thing I could not do (and shouldn't have affected whether the betta actually gets fungus or not) is quarantine it for a few days.

Well, even though he didnt seem to be getting any worse, he passed on, the poor thing. I don't want to deal with this again! What else could it be?

sigh,

--Hans
 
I had a couple of ideas. First being - how strong is the filter of the BioOrb? Bettas really don't like strong filters at all. Secondly, how much water does it hold??

The substrate you have looks fine, but I'm wondering if the fungus is being brought on by the stress of the current, tank mates and/or the small bowl?

Personally - I haven't kept bettas with minnows, but they might be stressing him out?

Just some thoughts - considering that it doesn't sound like a water quality issue.

swab the fuzz off his body as best as I can with a q-tip
Personally I wouldn't do this as you my be taking the fish's slime coat off as well as the fuzz. I'd just treat with the Jungle and let it do it's job. If possible see if you can get a small bubbler for the hospital tank.

Other then that, aqurium salt is an excellent suggestion....

Good Luck with your lil boy!
 
I had a couple of ideas. First being - how strong is the filter of the BioOrb? Bettas really don't like strong filters at all. Secondly, how much water does it hold??

The substrate you have looks fine, but I'm wondering if the fungus is being brought on by the stress of the current, tank mates and/or the small bowl?

Personally - I haven't kept bettas with minnows, but they might be stressing him out?

Just some thoughts - considering that it doesn't sound like a water quality issue.

swab the fuzz off his body as best as I can with a q-tip
Personally I wouldn't do this as you my be taking the fish's slime coat off as well as the fuzz. I'd just treat with the Jungle and let it do it's job. If possible see if you can get a small bubbler for the hospital tank.

Other then that, aqurium salt is an excellent suggestion....

Good Luck with your lil boy!

The biOrb just has a small "undergravel" type filter, that uses aeration to pull water up the tube in the middle. I did install a variable valve on the air line to turn the bubbler down and give the betta calmer water, but there's definitely no current in the tank. It's a 4 gallon tank. Its deceivingly small, but there's plenty of space inside to swim around and hide too, with all the plants and such.

I don't think the minnows are causing him any stress. They're not aggressive, don't tail nip, and if anything, are being chased by the betta (I think one might have lost a slice of tail to him, actually). He easily finds places to hide away if he doesn't want to be bothered.

I'm still paranoid about the rough type of substrate. I think I'm going to take it out and replace it with more of the gravel that's in there already.

Still unsure.. -_-

--Hans
 
You said you cleaned the tank after the first one passed on right? How did you go about cleaning it? There's a chance that some bacteria from the first fish was left behind and killed the second fish. If there were no open wounds and it came on so suddenly theres a good change that it was colmunaris, it looks like a fungal infection but is infact bacterial.
 
You said you cleaned the tank after the first one passed on right? How did you go about cleaning it? There's a chance that some bacteria from the first fish was left behind and killed the second fish. If there were no open wounds and it came on so suddenly theres a good change that it was colmunaris, it looks like a fungal infection but is infact bacterial.

I cleaned the old tank with extremely hot water, scour pads and salt. I rinsed it out real good, dried it out and left it to air dry completely for half a day. The thing that puzzles me is that the minnows show no signs of stress or sickness, and one of them even has a bit of tail missing, probably from the betta biting a small chunk out.

I ruled out columnaris (sp?) because my previous betta had fungus and this looked exactly like it, with the hairlike fuzz and all. It was not disorganized or cottony--it was fuzz that looked like hair growing straight out of the fish.

Hum....
--Hans
 
The best way to gaurentee that all bad things in a tank are killed is to clean the tank out with a bleach solution (9 parts water 1 parts bleach) then rinse it with hot water till you can't smell the bleach anymore, then let it airdry out in the sun for an entire day. :good:
 
One reason to quarantine would be so that you can treat with meds that would harm your plants and other fish.

Often columnaris does present with cottony growth, although it could be a secondary infection of fungus. IMO chlorine bleach is the best disinfectant. It literally burns up any lilttle buggers that may be lurking. Soak in a 10% bleach solution, rinse in clean water, let dry completely in the sun. The chlorine oxidizes and burns up and with it anything that may be lurking. It is completely eliminated, but the fastidious may want to rinse again with a declorinator.

It does often happen that only one fish shows up with symptoms and gets sick. Of course that does not mean the symptom free are guaranteed to be free as a carrier.
 
One reason to quarantine would be so that you can treat with meds that would harm your plants and other fish.

Often columnaris does present with cottony growth, although it could be a secondary infection of fungus. IMO chlorine bleach is the best disinfectant. It literally burns up any lilttle buggers that may be lurking. Soak in a 10% bleach solution, rinse in clean water, let dry completely in the sun. The chlorine oxidizes and burns up and with it anything that may be lurking. It is completely eliminated, but the fastidious may want to rinse again with a declorinator.

It does often happen that only one fish shows up with symptoms and gets sick. Of course that does not mean the symptom free are guaranteed to be free as a carrier.

Oh, I definitely do quarantine when a fish is sick. I did with this one as well--I took him out as soon as he showed signs of being sick. I just meant that i didn't quarantine him when i brought him home from the fish store.

Really though, I'm just trying to figure out and get opinions on why my tank is causing the bettas I get to get sick so fast. And with similar disease as well. Treating them is a different story, and one that i've read up on a lot already.

I've actually just got rid of most of those rough ceramic rocks that come with this biOrb and replaced it with standard gravel. Once the dust clears and everything stabilizes again, maybe...I'll try one more time?

--Hans
 

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