Treating Ich on temp-sensitive fish w/inverts?

[Turtlekins]

I am pretty sure I see an ich spot on one of my celestial pearl danios in my planted nano tank (roughly 8 gallons). There are 4 other CPDs, 10 cherry shrimp, and 1 assassin snail in the tank as well.
I'm at a bit of a loss for how to treat ich in this setup. From what I understand, CPDs prefer slightly cooler temps, and don't handle warmer water well. I keep the tank at 77, but hesitate to raise it to the usually recommended 86 for treatment. I have a number of meds on hand: Methylene Blue, FixICK (Fritz), ParaGuard, and aquarium salt (as well as Kanaplex and API General Cure, which are not needed in this situation). The only thing I don't have is Ich-X which I'm sure is what most would recommend! I'm totally willing to go buy it, but wanted to check if another combination of what I currently have on hand would suffice in case my local stores don't have it in stock (the shelves have been very sparse recently) and I'd like to get a jump on treatment rather than wait 2-3 days for it to ship to me.

SO - I think (?) Ich-X is Malachite Green based? which I suppose means that methylene blue would work very well. Of course I can and am willing to do MB dips/baths for the fish, but there are still the invertebrates in the tank, and I'd still need a way to treat the tank for any remaining parasites. MB will stain the display and isn't great for the plants at efficacious doses. FixIck and Paraguard aren't invertebrate safe (right?) so I could also move the fish to a hospital tank and treat them there, but am still left needing a solution for the display tank.
Should I treat the fish in a hospital tank and raise the temp in the display while they're separated? Will temp alone be enough to rush the parasite through its lifecycle as adding salt (the usual suggestion) would be harmful for the plants? (the plants are relatively new and a bit fragile as they settle in, so I'd like to protect them!) I know cherry shrimp and snails can't contract ich the way that fish do, but they would act as carriers for the reproductive tomont stage.
I should mention that there is currently API Gen cure in the water as I lost 4 pygmy corys earlier this week - totally my fault, I took the risk of not qt'ing them and got them from a questionable source (not a BIG box store, but not a local fish shop either ) and I think they came with gill flukes (just my best guess). The Gen cure was a preventative/last ditch effort to protect the other fish, which do come from my LFS and are very very high quality. I'm suppose to do the second dose of gen cure this evening but now need to think through the best approach to not overload the fish or cause any interactions.
How would you act in this situation?

I'm sure a variation of this question has been posed a million times on this forum, but it was hard to find an answer that addressed all the variables in my setup, so I apologize for any redundancy and thank you very kindly for any advice!

 

[JuiceBox52]

The fish will and invest will be fine with the temperature increase. The medications are much more harmful than the temp increase

 

[GaryE]

I will say the4 exact opposite to @JuiceBox52 here. You need to check the meds to see which are okay for shrimp (I don't keep any), but act quickly if it's ich. I use malachite green, and can get the parasite fast with quick action. If I dawdle, Ich wins.

If I were to raise heat in my tanks to 86f, most of my fish would be dead without ich. I choose fish that need cooler temps to save on energy. Plus, I like fish that are happy around 70-73f.

Remember ich is not a disease - it's a parasitic creature that swims looking for a host. Removing fish for dips and treatments is an error. As soon as they go back in, new parasites take the place of any you've killed, if a dip can even kill any. You have to disrupt the life cycle of ich, and that only happens when it is swimming around.

I have never had a fish I treated in time die, or be debilitated by meds. They breed after, repeatedly, which is the true test to me.

 

[Byron]

The fish mentioned are Celestial Pearl Danios, or Galaxy Rasboras...the actual scientific name is Danio margaritatus. [May still be found under Celestichthys but Conway et al (2008) and every subsequent study has changed this to Danio.] I do not see why a two-week increase in temperature will harm them, and it most assuredly safer than any "medication." Sorry, but dumping stuff into a fish tank is not the way to go when it is not essential. The species occurs in eastern Myanmar and been reported extending into northern Thailand. It lives in shallow ponds in boggy areas. Such an environment will get warm. And I honestly have lost fish to so-called ich meds, far too many; that ended the last time I had ich some 6-7 years ago. Even with a tank of wild-caught cories, two weeks at 86F did not seem to hamper them, they were still with me this year.

Another issue, you need a group and 20 is recommended. There will probably be aggressive issues without this shoal. From SF:
Buy as many as possible, ideally 20 or more, as when larger numbers are present the aggression is spread between individuals plus the fish are bolder, more often-seen, and exhibit better colouration.
Fish do not succumb to ich unless severely stressed, so this is related.

Celestichthys margaritatus – Celestial Pearl ‘Danio’ (Danio margaritatus) — Seriously Fish

www.seriouslyfish.com

I'm not commenting on shrimps, just the fish.

 

[Colin_T]

I have no idea if shrimp are killed by Malachite Green. Of you have a few spare, you could put them in a separate tank and add some Malachite Green and see what happens.

Methylene Blue doesn't do anything to white spot.

Triple Sulpha (Tri sulfa) used to treat white spot but I am unsure if it still does. The parasites might have developed a resistance to it. Shrimp can tolerate Triple Sulpha and it's quite a safe medication.

Praziquantel is a tapeworm medication for cats, dogs and fish and is meant to kill white spot. Pretty sure it's safe for shrimp too.

The other way to treat them is to move them to a clean container each day for a week. The parasites drop off the fish and are left behind when you move the fish. No chemicals, no need to increase temperature. You just need a couple of decent sized plastic containers that the fish can live in for a week. There's more information about this in post #16 at the following link.

What is ICH?

WHAT IS ICH? Ich or Whitespot is a parasitic protozoan that infects fresh, brackish and saltwater fishes. It is identified by small white spots that appear on the fish's body & fins. There are several stages to this parasite's lifecycle and it must be noted that the parasite can only be killed...

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