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the often overlooked sponge filter…

Magnum Man

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something so simple, it just seems too “anti-tech” to work… and while I usually clip on a hang on tank filter, nearly all my tanks have a simple sponge filter… I use a basic sponge, and straight lift tube, air operated type… I usually run a couple sizes bigger than what size tank they are rated for… one or even two, are in most all my tanks, except the tanks with bubble waterfalls half the length of the tank… I even have one in my acara cichlid tank… they seem to add to the stability of a tank, over a basic mechanical filter… thoughts or discussion???
 
I convert all mechanical filters to bio filters, as soon as I open the box. Mechanical filtration is a siphon hose for water changes. If you learn to feed correctly (for new aquarists, it takes time) there isn't a lot suspended for mechanical filters to remove. I've come to see my canisters and HOBs as current producers, something I think is extremely important. But the work is done by sponge filters.

I like corner box filters, which makes me the aquarium equivalent of a person who uses flint tools. But you can use sponge inside them, as well as other bio-media, and they do a good job. I've made a lot of box and sponge filters, and they are reliable. But - I keep killies and very low stocked tanks in most cases. I dont have air driven sponge filter in many of my 25 gallon or more tanks. I like to have two filters of different types on every tank if I can.

Today, I'm supposed to receive four smaller sponge filters via Amazon, for use in fry tanks once I get them biologically active. I picked up four a few weeks ago to test them, and liked what I got for the price. But they are for quiet tanks and species from low flow.
 
I’m like Gary in that I like old style box filters . They always will be the best choice in smaller aquariums under 55 gallons . The simple sponge filter is a box filter that you don’t have to put anything inside of . Not sure but I think it was the folks at Jungle that first came up with them . You don’t see Jungle Products around anymore so they might be defunct now . Lee still makes the little round ones that are great in fry aquariums .
I once read that electric aquarium accessories give off an electric jolt that stresses the fish and that power filters were the worst culprit . Somebody even makes a grounding device that’s supposed to cure that . Air driven filters don’t have that problem .
 
Hello. I use a sponge filter, but it mainly aerates the water. I typically remove and replace most of the tank water every week, so the filter is merely maintaining a healthy oxygen level. The water is already pretty close to its original form. The filter is just filtering water that's already clean.

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Here I come again, like a broken record (old technology unless you're cool). What filter you use depends on what fish interest you, and what their needs are. There are fish that need their water moving fast = faster than most sponges allow for. And fish that don't. You should set the tank up for the needs of its inhabitants.

You also have to consider your biotope - noises, electrical use, and cost.

Sponges work for a lot of tank ideas.
 
There are fish that need their water moving fast
Here’s a thought that I’ve heard many times but never paid any attention to . A hospital here in town has a big trout pond / stream set up in their lobby and the water moves pretty fast like a mountain stream . It’s fun watching those trout swimming and effortlessly maintaining their position in the current . What tropical denizens would do something like that and how would a guy go about setting it up ?
 
I have switched all of my foam filters from the cheap ATI foams to the higher quality Poret foam. If you use a either one of these it is doing both mechanical and biological. You cannot prevent this from happening.

What most people do not realizez is that the majority of we think of as mechanical waste is actually organic in nature. Dr. Tanner on Swiss tropicals has a really good article on this here: https://www.swisstropicals.com/library/aquarium-biofiltration/

But this is the important part in terms of what I stated above.


Biofilms are communities of microorganisms (see below) in which cells are embedded in a self-produced matrix of extracellular polymeric substance (EPS), which is often called “slime”. The cells adhere to each other and/or the surface. Biofilms are a system/network of microorganisms that adapts to environmental conditions. They form on living or non-living surfaces and are prevalent in natural and artificial settings. EPS is a polymeric conglomeration generally composed of extracellular biopolymers in various structural forms. Biofilms are the basis of substrate-bound aquarium biofiltration.


Microbial community & soil biology​


The microbial community in soil is diverse in species and highly variable depending on physical, chemical, and animate conditions such as temperature, pH, and the presence of roots for example. In soil, you will find all three domains of live: Archaea, Bacteria, and Eukaryota (animals, algae, fungi, and plants). Archaea and bacteria often co-exist in biofilms and form around particles and in pores of the soil substrate........

Eukaryota: the pore space in soils is full of organisms, some are sizeable such as earthworms and various insects, others are very small such as mites. Fungi are somewhere in the middle, since individual hyphae are tiny (in the micron range), while the whole colony can cover several square miles. Many of these organisms are summarized as detritivores, detritus feeders, or saprophages. They start the decomposition of organics by eating leaves, dead animals, excrements, etc. Their waste in turn is eaten by ever smaller organisms until we reach the true saprotrophs, which digest waste and organic matter by extracellular digestion (fungi but also bacteria and archaea). Saprotrophs release enzymes that break down matter and then absorb its components such as amino- and fatty acids, sugars, etc.


What does that mean for aquarium biofiltration?​


Water filtration is teamwork by the members of the substrate microbial community from all domains of life. This is an important conclusion, both for freshwater and marine habitats. The different players form a food web, where most organisms cannot exist alone but are interdependent. The microbial community varies greatly depending on the availability of foods, pore sizes, and substrates. Soil biofiltration is therefore very plastic, meaning it can cope with a variety of conditions. However, one feature is common. Natural layers of biofiltration are usually undisturbed for longer periods of time (many weeks and months). In nature, no one squeezes out the debris or rinses the media on a weekly schedule. Occasionally, seasonal floods or rains may “wash” a gravel bed but regular rinsing of the filter media is not happening. The microorganisms eat the debris and the sludge is completely broken down into gases and soluble products that then escape the pore space. Soil biofilters are almost maintenance-free. The released substances are either getting into the atmosphere or are taken up by plants.


For aquarium biofiltration to be most effective, filters should be running undisturbed for as long as possible. Filter media that remain passable and have a variety of pore sizes are best. Given that we like to influence the water parameters depending on the species we keep, and thus make water soft, hard, etc, the filter media should be chemically inert, so that it does not affect the water chemistry by itself.


Author © Stephan M. Tanner, PhD


Basically, since most mechanical waste is organic, it gets sucked into the foam. This happens whether one has foam in a hang-on, a canister, a sump of plain air powerd foam. If it is in the water it can get into the foam.The big difference between nature and out foasm filters is we do not have the bigger organbisms ention above inside the foam. The mechanical waste that is larger cannot be sucked easily into filter foam. The result is too much larger stuff will simply get sucked onto the surface of the foam and work to clog it since it may ne be getting broken into smaller particle sizes.

This was impressed on me some years ago when I began using the very large fofoam Matten filters in pleco breeding and grow tanks. I do not light them in the usual fashion. natural light and room light when they are on is what I have, The results is most such tanks have no bacground the glass is clear. I had posted pics of one or two of the pleco tanks. One of the resplies asked me how I managed to have such clear water. You could clearly see the indentation in wh white painted cimder block wall behind the tank. So I did an experiment.

I taped a quarter to the outside of the back glass and discovered i could read the dat on it through the fromnt glass. Since 100% of the filtration was foam. This oproved to me that the foam had to be doing mechanical as well as hosting the biological filtration my microorganisms.

The bast par of this I is then loaded my 3rd canister 100% with Poret foam media. I had to include the top floss sheet as it was needed to make everything connect to the pump on top as the original design incorporated. But that floss was the final media before the water returned to the tank and was u Under an inch in thickness, Below it the water passed though about 7 inches of 20 ppi Poret foam half of which was in each of the two media baskets. The water came up through the baskets before it went through the floss.

When I asked Dr. Tanner how I would now whenn I should rinse the media in that canister, he said when I noticed the return had slowed. My other two non Poret canisters I clean every June and December. I have had Poret loaded canister for at least 7-10 years. I just did my second clean about 2 months ago. I will confess that I let it run more slowly for several months before I did that clean. But the tank also has an AquaClear 300 (aka 70) running and is loaded with Poret as well but I rinse that media weekly for the most part and the tank is a heavily planted 75 gal.

Some of my Matten folters have been running for years without ever being cleaned. When I asked Dr. tanner as I was setting thes up how would I know when they should be cleaned, he said, "When the warer level behind the foam was clearly lower than the the level in the reast of the tank, it was time." Most of the Iattens I have cleaned came off of the tanks I have shut down over the past 3 years as I downsized from 20 to 29 to a max. of 12.

@Back in the fold

If you want to see smaller fish holding their place in faster water, have a look at this vid. I know it from my days of keeping Altum angels. I started the vid wher you can see the flow and in the earlier part before the altums are featured you will see the small fish in the decent current. Feel free to kwwp watching the rest of the vid as it is pretty neat.

 
To me, filters are the printers of the aquarium world - they work when they work! The only ones I really understand are the internal sort with their different layers of media. However, currently I am using two filters, each of a type I've never used before, despite years of fish keeping.

In my betta tank I have a sponge filter. The tank came with a kind of filter in a compartment that runs along the top of the tank at the back, but I wasn't convinced by it! In fact, I have no idea how it works, really. In my 90 litre there is inbuilt filtration, all neatly hidden behind a back wall. Again, I am completely mystified by it! I simply followed the instructions and, at one end, set up the air pump, which has a valve that passes through the wall; starting from the opposite end (there are about four compartments) I put in decreasingly 'rough' types of media, moving towards the pump. No idea how this works. Why does the water move through the vents at the far end away from the filter? What makes it do so, rather than just sitting in the tank?

I feel about filters rather as I feel about air travel - I have read widely about how filters work/why the plane stays in the air and just don't 'get' it. However, enough others do, apparently, so I'll just trust them!

PS: I am actually an intelligent woman!
 
Here’s a thought that I’ve heard many times but never paid any attention to . A hospital here in town has a big trout pond / stream set up in their lobby and the water moves pretty fast like a mountain stream . It’s fun watching those trout swimming and effortlessly maintaining their position in the current . What tropical denizens would do something like that and how would a guy go about setting it up ?

A huge percentage of the fish we keep like fast(ish) water. If it's at all torpedo shaped, it probably likes current.

The tanks are hard because of turbulence. If we fire water out of a pump, in the aquarium, it's going to hit walls and bounce back. You think you've built a tank that replicates a small rapids or a riffle, and the fish think they're in a swirling toilet bowl with currents coming from impossible directions.

If you have a long, large tank, you can do it better, but it takes a tank larger than I can either afford or place. Expensive laminar flow pumps can help, and they minimize turbulence. If your family finds out what you paid for one, that might cause another type of turbulence.

I saw a tank where a person had put in a false bottom, three or four inches above the bottom glass. A laminar flow pump was aimed under that glass panel, and as it flowed under and hit the end wall 5 feet away, it curved the water up and ran it over the highly aquascaped second level floor. That was smooth, and the tank, for fast water gobies, was really nice.

The biggest surprise I got as an aquarist going fishing in Central America and western Africa was how fast the water moved. I consistently found species we think come from slow water and keep as such in streams I had to push through not to be knocked over. I'm tall and weigh 210 pounds/95kg, and in general, I can stand my ground. But walking in many of those streams was hard. The fish were rarely in the main current, but were along the edge where it was quieter, but where it was quieter was often far faster moving than any of our tanks.

Technically, it's hard to get around the limits of a box made of glass.
 
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it’s an engineering thing, we can’t replicate wild type flow in our small boxes… but I have found that high flowing fish appreciate the bubble waterfalls I create… they move a little water, but apparently the bubble movement satisfys something in the fish… I have 2 tanks that use a couple 12 inch air bars connected to each other, along the back of the tank… the bubble waterfall in my hillstream tank is full of fish, that spend the bulk of their time among the bubbles… I also have the same type set up in my South American Tetra tank, and I almost never see a fish hanging out in the bubbles… I’ve always assumed the hillstream’s like the rapidly moving waters, and the tetras while found in the streams, are not partial to the rapid areas???

I also have several tanks that have big 6 inch block. air stones, these create a lot of bubble movement, but are concentrated in corners of the tanks, rather than spread out along the back… several fish( but not a lot ) hang in these areas often…

point being, to actually move that much water, is near impossible, in a small glass box, but the bubbles can simulate that kind of movement vertically in a tank… not natural, but several fish who likely were exposed to high horizontal movement in the wild, seem to accept the vertical movement of the bubbles, as better than nothing…
 
… and I know it’s a surprise, but I have a few tanks, that still have under-gravel filters… they were the standard 30 years ago, and when I restarted my tanks 4 ish years ago, they were highly out of favor, so I pulled most of them out at restart… unfortunately I’ve found that I still like them in the few tanks I left them in at restart… those tanks with retained under-gravel filters are some of my most stable tanks… I have many of the best the hobby created, under-gravel plates sitting on a shelf right now, that I’m wishing were still in the tanks… the only bad part about under- gravel filters IMO, was the thin acrylic lift tubes got brittle and broke or cracked, but they worked very well, if you left them alone… but finding replacements 30 years later, proved challenging…
 
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If one has the know how and the ability to do it, you can make directional flow in a tank. I did this on a somewhat smaller scale when I began working with zebra plecos. I had them ina 30B which is 36x18x13 inches. I used three filters in the tank.

1. I had a small 160 gph pwoerhead mounted on the left end wall about mid level and facing the opposite end of the tank. The intake had a big sponge on it, This pushed water across the front of the caves which ran down the length of tank so I could see into the.

2. A H.O.T. Magnum which I replummed. It was mount on the left end back glass. I modivfed the output to be a spray bare mounted olong the left end side glass so it pushed water out across the surface toward the opposite end. I then attached a long hose to the intake and it drooped to the bottom, ran down the length of the back glass and when it got to the other ende it did a 90 degree turn into a long intake which was sponged as well. The made a true left to right flow and returned the water to the filter via the hose.

3. I put an AC 150 (30) on the right rear end of the tank and it ws loaded with foam and floss.

So, it was not a true river but came close. This tank was set in-wall under the 75 in-wall above it. Had I been able to do so I would have preferred to have the tank on a stand. The I would have had the output on one end and the intake would have been drilled at the opposite ended, I would have then run the return to the filter under the tank via a hose. This would have been a true diver unidirectional flow.

This sort of design could also be done with the return hose inside the tank under substrate or even bare. But back in 2006 I had only been keeping fish for about 5.25 years and money was still not as good as it became over the next 20 years. So I did the best I could. I am pretty decent at jury rigging things. This tank produced well over 500 zebra offspring over the next 16 years. I nor longer have zebras and have been missing that a lot lately, I have even toyed with the idea of getting them again but I am trying to downsize these days.

It is amazing the things we can do in a tank if we put our mind to it and can afford to buy what is needed.

Here is the thing about filtration. It is done by living things. What we call a filter does not filter, it provides a home for the microorganisms the do the actual work. Nature supplies these in response to the presence of ammonia. There is no magic, not nystery here, it is how things work and it is hard to "fool mother nature." Our part is having the knowledge needed to protect our fish properly by understanding how this basically work.

A lot of the knowledge we need comes from the science. The companies who make the equipment make money from doing this, so what they tell us if often overly influenced by a profit motive. They will often state things in a way designed to sell to us rather than to educate us to the facts. We have to dig these out ourselves.

I did not learn about filtration from SeaChem, Tetra, etc. I learned intitially by reading Dr. Hovanec's papers and then more [papers from other scientists. This is why I now have so much Poret in my systems. To steal a line from Filed of dreams, when it comes to filtration, "if you build it (right), they will come. (word in italics added by me.)
 
I use both a sponge filter and a Marineland 200 HOB filter. If the HOB stops working at any time, the sponge filter will prevent an ammonia spike. Also having both filters in a tank allows you to transfer the sponge filter to a hospital tank or a quarantine tank to instantly cycle it.
 
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