I am really struggling with the colours on the API test kits. I find it difficult to tell whether my ammonia test is saying 2ppm, 4ppm or even 8ppm. Similarly, I cannot tell what the nitrate test is saying.
Are there any test kits on the market which are easier to read? Particularly for the ammonia as that is more important for me at present.
Hi Aliena,
There is another whole angle to this problem you describe. I experienced it too, but eventually came to not be bothered by it. The reason was that I gradually realized that the skill needed for the "bigger picture" that one is trying to see does not really usually involve working out any numbers with overly precise detail. Instead, the skill ends up being more about knowing 2 or 3 ranges or "things you care about" for a given measurement you're making. I was thinking about that during an API ammonia test I took today. When looking at ammonia results during fishless cycling, what I found I really cared about were 3 types of looks, pure light yellow for zero ppm, any kind of a light green that was just too light to be 8ppm, or thirdly, a dark green that might be 8ppm and I'd need to dilute. During the vast majority of cycling, all I cared about was that there was some ammonia in there or that it had gone to zero or that it had not gone to 8. If it had clearly gone to zero ppm then it was time for an "ammonia add" at the "add-hour" (the particular hour out of 24 when I would add ammonia.) Gradually over the weeks, always holding the tube against the white part of the color card and always the same number of inches in front of the same bright light that was between me and the card and facing away from me, I did though become used to seeing a green hue difference between say 1, 2 or 4ppm etc. It just took some time and repeat experience. The only time it has much importance is very near the end when its really nice to try and guesstimate the 5ppm, a shade darker than 4ppm, and keep putting it there for the whole qualifying week.
During the first two phases of fishless cycling (1-when you're waiting for ammonia to drop to zero daily, 2- during the nitrite spike) its nice, but just not that important for the concentration to actually be 4 or 5ppm. If there is some doubt that maybe its 8ppm and you take some water out and then get worried that the green looks too light, such that it might be 2ppm or something, just don't worry, it doesn't matter. There's plenty of ammonia to keep the process going and then you'll get a clear yellow and it'll be time to put more ammonia in anyway.
Later on after you have fish, this same skill principle is still true. Every now and then you test and you expect to get pure light yellow and sky blue, zero, zero, if you're using the api tests. If you see a trace of green or a trace of purple, then you don't really care that much what number they mean you just know, wow!, I've got to perform a big water change and test again and figure out what might be wrong. And for nitrate(NO3) its the same slow buildup to better recognition, gradually you get used to the various yellow, orange or reddish colors, partly because over time you'll see more of them and be able to contrast them in your mind better and eventually you'll realize you've gained a skill. Maybe you'll miss a weekend gravel clean and the next weekend you'll see a darker nitrate result than you're used to seeing and you'll think, "ok, that makes sense."
Anyway, just mentioning this because I feel the knowledge of knowing what values your tank probably -should- have or that you are expecting based on experience is the more valuable skill and the hints from the liquid test results should be used as a tool to add confirmation or some questioning to this experience, rather than us chasing after test kits that we hope are going to just magically tell us an answer without any ambiguity. Kind of a difficult thing to communicate but I hope this helps.
~~waterdrop~~
