Tank Cycling & Ammonia Poisoning

I just cruised this thread. I have only one observation, where is the nitrite and nitrate? Not one report of test results showed a reading besides 0 for either. I saw no report of seeding bacteria either from another tank or a bottled product or of the presence of live plants.
 
So where is the rest of the cycle? Could it be that all those water changes to keep ammonia under .25 ppm are why cycle looks stuck.? Those who have read my posts on this topic know what my answer is. I will almost never suggest changing water during a fish in cycle at that level.
 
There is a live plant in the tank.

I am doing about 10-20% water changes every other day at this stage.
Is this too much? What should I be doing?

Also, our chief weapon is surprise, surprise and fear.
 
was just wondering how your cycling is getting on. have you had any better results yet. fingers crossed for you.
 
If you want my advice, stop changing water at .25 ppm. In your tank you should try to ride it up to between 1 and 2 ppm before doing changes as long as the fish do not show signs of distress.
 
Ammonia levels to worry about are not the ones for total ammonia but for the toxic form NH3. The amount of this present in any given total ammonia reading depends on the pH and temperature of the water. Higher numbers = more toxic.
 
At a pH of 7.4 and a high temp of say 82F (about 28C) the amount of NH3 in a total ammonia reading of 2 ppm is .034 ppm. This level is just approaching the danger zone which the Merck Veterinary manual puts at .05 ppm. Even using a lower value of .03 ppm (as some say is the start of the danger level) the .034 ppm would just be at that worry line.
 
The deal with fish in cycling is that is is like a bullfight. The goal is to get as close to the bull as possible without getting gored. In fish in cycling the goal is to allow ammonia and nitrite levels to rise as high as possible without doing permanent harm to the fish. The higher they can be allowed to go and the longer they can be allowed to stay there, the faster the cycle will complete. And this is why fishless cyling is so much easier and faster. It is also why one is supposed to use the more ammonia and nitrite tolerant fish. Different fish have higher or lower resistance points.
 
One final note to the OP- a .25 ppm reading of total ammonia on an API kit in a tank with a pH of 7.4 at a temp of 85 F (almost 30C) means the toxic form of ammonia in the tank would be .005 ppm. That is one tenth of the Merck harmful level. Fish can live in that amount of NH# almost 24/7 their whole lives. I have not read a single research paper that indicates an NH3 level below .02 ppm is a threat to anything fish.
 
Thank you so much for that detailed info. That seems to be the missing link as to why I can't get my water levels to change.

How exactly do I go about getting the ammonia to rise? Just don't do any water changes and wait till it reaches 2ppm? And from there do I do a water change and repeat the process?

Much obliged for your help!
 
I think you've got some sound advice there. Makes a lot of sense. The only thing Im gonna add is that the cycle needs ammonia to start. It's what the bacteria feed on. Your fighter is a pretty clean fish and not famous for producing lots of waste.all the water changes maybe depriving the bacteria of the food they need to start the cycle. Maybe reducing the amount of water you change and change less frequently may kick start the process. When I first started I had black moor goldfish. Famously filthy fish. But the two fish in cycles I did with them completed really quickly.
 
after about a week of no water changes:
 
pH - 7.4
Ammonia - .25ppm
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate -0
 
It looks to me as if your ammonia level has not changed and that you have not tested for nitrite at all being present.
 
There is no way in an uncycled tank with fish in it that you can go a week without changing water and not have ammonia rise nor have nitrite appear when that tank has been up for even longer. My best guess here is that the .25 ppm ammonia reading is a false one.
 
My best guess here is the tank is and likely has been cycled for a while.
 
Because you keep changing water. You kept the levels low. But there is only one fish so you were not creating huge amounts ammonia and by not allowing them to build much things were going on below the level of detection.
 
You started on June 27th, today is August 14. That is pushing 50 days. A normal cycle should take about 5 weeks or 35 days- give or take
 
If you followed my suggestion and stopped changing the water so often, then there should have been a change in the ammonia level. If there were not enough ammonia bacs, the level should have risen until there were. If there were close to enough bacs to handle all but .25 ppm of ammonia, then they should have reproduced rapidly enough to make that ammonia go away and stay away. But neither happened in your tank during a week with no water changes.
 
The one thing I did observe in your reported results is ammonia did rise to .5 ppm and then drop back to the steady .25 ppm early on. So it looks like some movement happened. But consider this. If I asked you to set up a tank and using only fish and other normal tank contents to make the following happen- no matter when the water was tested for ammonia it would always be at.25 ppm. And then to do this for one month. Could you do it? Could you even come up with a theoretical way to do it? As far as I am concerned this would be impossible. But here you are reporting this exact situation in your tank.
 
My point here is that your numbers are not changing. We know the fish exhales ammonia with every "breath", we know poop and other organic wastes produce ammonia. So if the fish/tank was making ammonia where is it? And the same thing applies to nitrite. If you have ammonia which bacteria are converting, then you must get nitrite. If you must get nitrite where is the reading for it? The only way not to have detected any nitrite that should have been there is if it was being converted to nitrate.
 
And that gets you to a test kit that is so flakey I don't even bother using it. Your daily water changes minimal stock and lone plant may have combined to make nitrate not being detected either.
 
And then there is the final consideration. Many dechlors will affect readings. By doing all those every other day water changes, you were dosing more dechlor every time as well. This may have affected your readings.
 
Lastly, in trying to get info about Aqua One I found this:
Aqua One Ammonia & Chlorine Neutraliser improves aquarium water by removing harmful toxins such as chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals found in tap water as well as reducing levels of toxic ammonia and nitrate produced from fish waste.
I am unfamiliar with this product, perhaps it has something to do with your lack of nitrate readings as well as creating a false low level ammonia reading.
 
Given all the possible explanations for your readings, the most likely one appears to be that the tank is cycled for the lone betta in it. I could be wrong, but then somebody needs to come up with a better explanation for what went on in your tank the last 7 weeks and for the readings you were and are getting.
 

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