T5, T6, T8, Metal Halide Oh My

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chameleongeekgrl

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Gah, I am really truly sorry everyone. I know these questions get asked alot and I feel bad asking another one.

Christmas is coming and my last big purchase for my aqaurium is a new upadated lighting. I have upwards to 400- 500 dollars to spend on lights if needed, so money is not a huge problem. thought I had decided on metal halide until i read somewhere that less light is better? in a bigger aqaurium, i don't know if my aqaurium accounts for a "bigger" aqaurium. I have power compact lights right now and they don't seem to be penetrating the very bottom.

Okay so after the small talk if I want to acheive the brillant red that I see many plants have what is the best lighting fixture that will have the types of tubes I need? I mean, i didn't even know they had T6, now after trying to do research i am so confused. I really tried to do reasearch for an hour and I feel like I got no where.

Like I said i'm sorry, but you forum people have pointed me to some great proucts (eheim turbofilter) (Azoo regulator) (E.I dosing supplies) So I trust your opinions more than I trust websites trying to sell their products.

Tank Stats-

Heavily planted -55 gallon- fully automated co2 set-up- 5 bags of eco-complete substrate.

Thanks you sincerly to any help :fun:
 
How much light have you got now?

That question too, and since I'm a dingledorf, where are you? I am better about recommending some good websites if I know where you are. Another option to consider are PC Power compacts or Compact Fluorescents (sp). They are a great light. I have straight pin CFs in my 36g bowfront, my 8g, and my little 2.5g. My 20g uses T5s which are great too. At least I like them and my plants grow well. A decent fixture for your size tank I doubt would cost more than you allotted budget, unless you went designer, and one needn't go designer.

How much lighting to you want is another good question? Deep reds can be achieved with lower light levels as well if you pick the right plants. A. reineckii (my avitar) and Nymphaea lotus, can be both a very deep red and both grow well with less than 2WPG and possibly no CO2. Rotala rotundifolia also can blush a deep salmon at the tips with decent lighting. If I were setting up your tank with the CO2 you've got now and the substrate, I'd probably begin with around 1.8WPG and invest in a double fixture with 2 switches, so I can opt for a burst with greater lighting later, once I got my feet wet. Starting with too much lighting can be a common mistake. Much of the literature on the web that explains the lighting requirements for plants base their lighting standards on standard output T8 bulbs, but T5s and CFs can produce more light, and you may need less WPG than you anticipate.

Final question, is this your first planted tank? 55g is a great size. Look forward to a journal for this system. If you like reds so much, can I suggest possibly going Dutch with this system? Dutch is a method of aquascaping that conveys the look of a terrestrial garden in the aquaria. It involves utilizing plants with contrasting color and leaf shapes into pretty arrangements. In addition, terracing of the substrate, and moss walls can also be incorporated. There is usually very little hardscape, but some people use wood. A little pruning skill is required, but the effects can be stunning. It makes for a very bright and cheerful aquarium. Google "Dutch aquascaping" or have a look at my 8g journal, which was a Dutch scape on a much, much smaller scale.

llj
 
Okay I do have power compacts at the moment, and I have a whoppin' 220 watts. the system I have now is a very cheap one. It takes 4 55/65 watt bulbs and has 2 seperate switches. So I can run 110 watts worth of light. When I do this though there is not enough light apparently and the plants start dieing. Even at 220 watts in a 55 gallon the plants are growing decent enough but no reds in my plants (I have the Rotala and not even getting a salmon color) The biggest problem is the plants in the front are not getting enough light (glosso, dwarf hairgrass, HC, and even java moss for corn's sake) So I'm tthinking the compacts are not penetrating deep enough. I did buy high quality 8500k plant bulbs but didn't seem liek it helped.

I am from the states. :hyper: Thanks

Judith-
 
Okay I do have power compacts at the moment, and I have a whoppin' 220 watts. the system I have now is a very cheap one. It takes 4 55/65 watt bulbs and has 2 seperate switches. So I can run 110 watts worth of light. When I do this though there is not enough light apparently and the plants start dieing. Even at 220 watts in a 55 gallon the plants are growing decent enough but no reds in my plants (I have the Rotala and not even getting a salmon color) The biggest problem is the plants in the front are not getting enough light (glosso, dwarf hairgrass, HC, and even java moss for corn's sake) So I'm tthinking the compacts are not penetrating deep enough. I did buy high quality 8500k plant bulbs but didn't seem liek it helped.

I am from the states. :hyper: Thanks

Judith-

I have a really hard time believing that 110W isn't sufficient to grow plants in a 55g aquarium. It's not you, that just doesn't make any sense to me. Something must be up with the fixture or another factor may be coming into play. Can you send pictures of your fixture? Perhaps it isn't long enough? How long is the 55g in inches.

Now, I will ask for more details regarding your setup. What is your fert regimen? Extra lighting does no good if you don't provide the plants the nutrients that they need. How long has the tank been setup? Where did you get your plants? What is your photo period? Plants need a period of rest where there is no light.
 
Hi again,

Okay My camera is not working but here is a link to a Jebo lighting system on ebay (hope the link works)

http://cgi.ebay.com/JEBO-48-220-W-Compact-...4QQcmdZViewItem

Now the plants in the back, or any high growing plant is getting enough light, i's just plants that are mid to for ground that don't seem to be getting any light. They are out where they can get it.

The 55 Gallon is 48 inches across, it's got a dumb black plastic srip in the middle, but that's only like 3 inches wide.

I'm attempting the E.I dosing method which probably doesn't happen as often as I should but I usually do it about every 3 days with nirtogen, potassium, excel, and a little phosprus.

Plants are from a LFS and a few from online.

I've had the tanks set up for about a year with new bubls in about 5 months ago and the co2 set-up in June.

I'm also doing the "seista" lighting. I have my timers from 6-12am on, off from 12-3pm, then on again from 3-9 pm.

Okay i think I got it all. Wooh
 
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Can you regulate which bulb you have on at which time? I've got a two switch CF fixture in my 36g. I used to alternate which bulb was on at once using timers so both the front and the back of the tank are lit during different parts of the day. Get my drift?

3 inches wide is still large enough to cast a pretty big shadow, depending on how close the fixture is to the brace. If it's right on top, then probably not, but the farther away the brace is from the fixture and the light source, the larger a shadow it may cause. I don't know, I'm kind of just thinking off the top of my head.

Whats you ppm on the CO2?
 
Can you regulate which bulb you have on at which time? I've got a two switch CF fixture in my 36g. I used to alternate which bulb was on at once using timers so both the front and the back of the tank are lit during different parts of the day. Get my drift?

3 inches wide is still large enough to cast a pretty big shadow, depending on how close the fixture is to the brace. If it's right on top, then probably not, but the farther away the brace is from the fixture and the light source, the larger a shadow it may cause. I don't know, I'm kind of just thinking off the top of my head.

Whats you ppm on the CO2?


Isn't it the other way around? The closer they are together the bigger the shadow and the farther apart the smaller?
 
Can you regulate which bulb you have on at which time? I've got a two switch CF fixture in my 36g. I used to alternate which bulb was on at once using timers so both the front and the back of the tank are lit during different parts of the day. Get my drift?

3 inches wide is still large enough to cast a pretty big shadow, depending on how close the fixture is to the brace. If it's right on top, then probably not, but the farther away the brace is from the fixture and the light source, the larger a shadow it may cause. I don't know, I'm kind of just thinking off the top of my head.

Whats you ppm on the CO2?


Isn't it the other way around? The closer they are together the bigger the shadow and the farther apart the smaller?

Yes, you are right. It's late, cut me some slack. :lol: At any rate, the shadow may be bigger than he thinks.
 

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