Stocking For Interesting Water Type

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MarkGabb

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hi guys so here is my basic tank stats
PH: 6.5 static for the last week, no changes
gH 30
kH 0-10
temp varies between 24-25.5 depending on weather
 
currently 6 neon tetras in it wiht some ivy...of a kind i dont remember the name....any tips on what i should add either object or fish wise?
im aware that my tanks levels look odd...but ive tested many times and had the LFS check as well and i can confirm they are correct....
the only thing i can put it down to is the tanks the water came from
 
 
 
 
Where did the water come from?  
 
How big is the tank?  (This will help in giving some stocking advice.)
 
appologies   i completely forgot that part....
100L   dimensions are
[SIZE=12pt]Tank is 620 wide X 310 depth x 440 high[/SIZE] (all measurments in mm)
 
the water is simply out of my tank at home...i dont live close enough to a town to get mains water so we rely on rainwater tanks for all uses. (great not having clorinated water)
but ive already noticed there are some interesting properties to it, such as cycling in a couple of days....
i presume that as its a 50-60 year old concrete tank that it has probably got its own awesome ecosystem going on right inside it...
 
i know i frequently get frogs in it on and off...
 
 
So, it would seem that the gH is a result of dissolved solids from the concrete tank, that makes so much more sense.  
 
 
You are pretty clear for just about any fish based on the water.  South American species (like the neons) would be a good place to start in your search.  A 100L tank isn't that big, but its also not that small.  You could mix in another shoaling specie, maybe a few corydoras...  or a Bolivian Ram, if you are looking for something a bit more 'exotic' a pair or even a trio (1M:2F) of apistogrammas could also work.
 
 
Lots of options.
 
thanks for the tips...yeah i was discussing it with the guy at the shop and he was confused about it too....
 
from what i understand having such a low hardness should make my pH volatile, but it seems rock solid and hasnt moved and inch either though cycling, planting or fish....
 
The kH is what holds the pH constant as it is what buffers the water.  
 
excelent , i shall be heading to the LFS this weekend so shall have a look around....
i think i will bulk out the neons to start with maybe bring them up to a dozen. from what i read that should protect them if i end up withsomething a little more agressive...
 
6 neon tetras
1 Siamese algee eater
1 Platty
4 male guppies
 
so im noticing an issue between the guppies and the platty, the guppies are hassling the platty for a few hours a day.....
should i maybe get a few more to stop the guppies?
 
looking to see what i should get next......
planning on keeping it fairly colourfull
 
anyone got a interesting suggestion?
 
First, return the platy and guppies.  Livebearers require moderately hard or harder water (they need the calcium and other hard minerals) with a basic pH (= above 7).  While guppies can "manage" in soft water, the others like platy (and mollies, swordtails) cannot.
 
Second, I would return the Siamese Algae Eater.  At six inches, this fish gets too large for this tank...it will be 1/4 the tank length; and that affects the bioload, plus this fish is not the best with small fish especially in small spaces.  It is also better in a small group, but that's another story.
 
Stay with soft water fish.  The GH at 30 which I assume is 30 ppm is very soft, near zero.  And your pH is on the acidic side (as one can expect with rainwater) so this is ideal for South American and SE Asian fish (with a few exceptions).  Other tetra, rasbora, small catfish like corys, etc.  All these fish are shoaling, requiring a group, so decide which you want and acquire a group of say 7-8 depending upon species.  I would increase the neons to 8-9.  We can discuss specifics if species are mentioned, but this is a guide.
 
Byron.
 
Byron said:
Stay with soft water fish.  The GH at 30 which I assume is 30 ppm is very soft, near zero.
 
I read the 30 gH as degrees German - which would be very hard water indeed.
So that would make it very high general hardness but low carbonate hardness, if I'm reading a-right.
 
daizeUK said:
 
Stay with soft water fish.  The GH at 30 which I assume is 30 ppm is very soft, near zero.
 
I read the 30 gH as degrees German - which would be very hard water indeed.
So that would make it very high general hardness but low carbonate hardness, if I'm reading a-right.
 
 
I suppose the only way to be sure is to find out what test kit is being used by the OP.  
 
i am using the API kit that everyone raves about
 
MarkGabb said:
i am using the API kit that everyone raves about
 
So does this mean you are adding 30 drops before the colour change from orange to green?  This would be 30 dGH. or the equivalent 537 ppm.  Which is what some comically refer to as "liquid rock," but it isn't very comical to have.
 
Another suggestion, check with your water supply folks and confirm the GH.  They should be able to tell you this, either on their website or directly.  This will simply confirm your test results.
 
Byron.
 
byron, i am unable to do so as i said im on tank water...there is no mains water available where i live.....
 
ive just retested and these are my results ATM
 
PH: 6.8
Amonia: 0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate:0
gH 16 drops
kH  4  drops
temp varies between 24-25.5
 
General Hardness has dropped a fair bit, but ive had a tonn  of rain recently possibly diluting the tanks.....
 

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