Starting A Journal. No Pics For A While.

Ginge

Betta Extermination Team!!!
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Nov 8, 2005
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Location
England,Hampshire Hayling Island
Tank: 48x15x18 200L.

Filtration: Fluval 305.

Lighting: 2xT8 40W 4000k,7500K 1xT8 30W 7500K. About 2.00wpg.

CO2: JBL Proflora CO2 Set Vario 500 Profi Set 1. Will be about 30ppm.

Substrate: Sand.

Fertilisation: Now decided on EI dry ferts.

Water chemistry: Water here is naturally about 7.5ph all will be sorted with the ferts.

Maintenance: Will scrape any algea i can reach with magnet when needed. Trim plants when needed. Between 25%-40% weekly water change.

Fish: 2Angels. 12 harlequin rosoboras. 3BN plecs. 5 Corrys. 3 ottos.

Decor: Some manopi wood and a stone pile.

Plants i like so far:
Vallisneria spiralis
Amazon Swords
Java Fern
Dwarf Riccia
Hairgrass
Micro Sword
Micranthemum umbrosum
Riccia Fluitians
Anubias Nana
Dwarf Sagitaria


So hopefully ive done my research so far. Any quries or improvement ideas just say.

Thanks. Ive got my birthday on 19th of july. Also i finsih GCSE's in 6 days.YES. So work will start then providing my current setup is all gone.
 
I think you need to be careful with using bogwood to lower pH. For two reasons. Firstly there are different types of bogwood, the MOPANI one, which isn't actually from a bog but it just a tree that they cut down and sand blast. This in my experience is crap at lowering pH and I've yet to find it doing so in any of my tanks.

Secondly, the other type, the 'real' bogwood comes from a bog and to my knowledge I've only ever had one piece and this lowered my pH from 7 to around 6.4, mostly because it was somehow removing the KH from the tank. I don't know how scientific this is, but it was very definitely removing the KH, I had to buffer it back up with bicarb each night until I worked out what was going on and remove the piece of wood, since which the pH and KH has been stable.

On the basis of this I would say using true bogwood it to risky, if it really does remove KH (and I've heard a few other people say the same thing) then as soon as the KH goes the pH is going to plummet and you dont want to have to be adding bicarb each day to counteract this, what happens when you forget or have to go away?

CO2 is far better for lowering pH as it is more reliable. Either that or use RO? Or just live with it being 7.5 lots of fish are happy with that pH and so are many plants I would have thought. Peat would do but I personally have a bit of an issue with removing peat bogs for any purpose, fish or gardens or otherwise. Sorry rant over :lol:

Sam
 
i would go with java moss as with ricca you have to re-plant it quite often which you don't with java moss, just a bit of a thought for you.

:good:
 
i would go with java moss as with ricca you have to re-plant it quite often which you don't with java moss, just a bit of a thought for you.

:good:

Have thought about both but i would love some ricca for the beauty of it. Just starting this journel has me so excited.Also can i ask what PO4 is?
 
i would go with java moss as with ricca you have to re-plant it quite often which you don't with java moss, just a bit of a thought for you.

:good:

Have thought about both but i would love some ricca for the beauty of it. Just starting this journel has me so excited.Also can i ask what PO4 is?

Ive just realised its phosphate and its a nutrient that plants need. With the specs given about will i need to add it to the tank or do you not need to?
 
Adding PO4 and NO3 (nitrAte) depends on how much you already have in the water supply as you'll add it during water changes so adding mroe may not be mecessary. It also depends to a certain extent what plants you have some are more nutrient hungry than others. I would set it up and test to see if these are being used up and add more if it needs it.

BTW are you doing EI?
 
Adding PO4 and NO3 (nitrAte) depends on how much you already have in the water supply as you'll add it during water changes so adding mroe may not be mecessary. It also depends to a certain extent what plants you have some are more nutrient hungry than others. I would set it up and test to see if these are being used up and add more if it needs it.

BTW are you doing EI?

Ok thanks i think nitates are qutie high here but i will need a new test kit for phosphates then. What it EI?
 
EI = Estimative index, have a read of this you'll find in quite interesting :()
 
EI = Estimative index, have a read of this you'll find in quite interesting :()

Think i will now :D thanks alot i understand now. I got a bit stuck on how to dose but i think i got it just run it over with me quickly.

"If you wish to make a stock solution then add 15g to 500ml of water (preferably RO) and add 5ml per 100L of water - this would give you a value of 1ppm and you would dose 3 times a week when using the EI method."

Once i make up this 500ml bottle do i just use it all up till it all runs out or does it go out of date?
When i first add plants do i need to do it quickly or not? because money is an issue. I dont think ill have any fish until like august :lol: i cant afford it.

Saved:£30pays for new bulbs
Selling of current rocks and fish:Hopefully about £80 pays for all plants and ferts.
Birthday money: Pays for JBL setup and later on after im well planted some fish.

Wiht the ricca i think im going to get it first and leave it ontop of the water surface for weeks to let it grow loads. As soon as i have a decend amount then i will use Jimboos planted method for it. Then i will add all the other plants.
 
Now decided to add fish around a month or two after planting to get used to the planted tank maintanence.
I think after fish are added i will do a lighting upgrade to take me from 80w to 110w then i will have 2.2wpg. On the fluval tank i think i will add a 30w t8 bulb here.

DSC00404.jpg
 

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