Setting Up My New Tank

byebend

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Hi all,
I have been reading here for what seems like forever - and have finally plucked up the courage to set up my own tank.
I have purchased a Trigon 350 corner tank along with an Eheim 2217 external filter, and a V2 skim 600 protein skimmer. I have removed the built in filter from the Trigon hoping to rely on live rock and the Eheim.
But despite all the months of reading I still have some questions:
1. Is using the Eheim 2217 the right decision, and if so what filter media should I use?
2. I still have the standard lid fitted and would like to keep it this way (I have viewed stacks of pictures on this site with people who have done the same) but I am concerned about condensation affecting the lighting as the light sit very close to the top water mark.
3. Due to finances I would like to start the tank with some base rock and some live rock. Is this still ok? If so what kind of % base could I use? Would 50/50 be ok to save a bit of money. I am in no rush so could let the tank mature slowly.
Any advise would be gratefully received - please help!!!!
 
hi
how many us gallons?


(also when looking at convos refresh page for updates :D )
 
same as mine :)

have u thought of adding a uv streliser
 
Hi all,
I have been reading here for what seems like forever - and have finally plucked up the courage to set up my own tank.
I have purchased a Trigon 350 corner tank along with an Eheim 2217 external filter, and a V2 skim 600 protein skimmer. I have removed the built in filter from the Trigon hoping to rely on live rock and the Eheim.
But despite all the months of reading I still have some questions:
1. Is using the Eheim 2217 the right decision, and if so what filter media should I use?
2. I still have the standard lid fitted and would like to keep it this way (I have viewed stacks of pictures on this site with people who have done the same) but I am concerned about condensation affecting the lighting as the light sit very close to the top water mark.
3. Due to finances I would like to start the tank with some base rock and some live rock. Is this still ok? If so what kind of % base could I use? Would 50/50 be ok to save a bit of money. I am in no rush so could let the tank mature slowly.
Any advise would be gratefully received - please help!!!!

1. LR will do all your filtering, at least 1 kg per 10 litres, 1.5kgs per 10 litres better. Use the Eheim to house rowaphos and activated carbon only, no ther filter media. Run rowaphos from day 1 to prevent algae before it starts.
2. Standard lid is fine. Juwel lighting units are IP67 watertight connections. You will need to upgrade the lighting if you want to keep corals though.
3. 50/50 would be fine to seed the base rock. Make sure you buy the necessary test kits and monitor the levels.

Hope this helps,
 
Hi all,
I have been reading here for what seems like forever - and have finally plucked up the courage to set up my own tank.
I have purchased a Trigon 350 corner tank along with an Eheim 2217 external filter, and a V2 skim 600 protein skimmer. I have removed the built in filter from the Trigon hoping to rely on live rock and the Eheim.
But despite all the months of reading I still have some questions:
1. Is using the Eheim 2217 the right decision, and if so what filter media should I use?
2. I still have the standard lid fitted and would like to keep it this way (I have viewed stacks of pictures on this site with people who have done the same) but I am concerned about condensation affecting the lighting as the light sit very close to the top water mark.
3. Due to finances I would like to start the tank with some base rock and some live rock. Is this still ok? If so what kind of % base could I use? Would 50/50 be ok to save a bit of money. I am in no rush so could let the tank mature slowly.
Any advise would be gratefully received - please help!!!!

1. LR will do all your filtering, at least 1 kg per 10 litres, 1.5kgs per 10 litres better. Use the Eheim to house rowaphos and activated carbon only, no ther filter media. Run rowaphos from day 1 to prevent algae before it starts.
2. Standard lid is fine. Juwel lighting units are IP67 watertight connections. You will need to upgrade the lighting if you want to keep corals though.
3. 50/50 would be fine to seed the base rock. Make sure you buy the necessary test kits and monitor the levels.

Hope this helps,

Many thanks for your response.
I have read so many different things that I just needed some straight answers from someone and confirmation my first few purchases will work ok together.
I do plan to keep corals in the future but wanted to start small then upgrade as the money comes in. When you say upgrade the lighting - does this mean different tubes in my current set up or a completely new light set up.
I am not certain exactly what test kits I need at this stage as I have been concentrating on buying the more expensive ahrdware items 1st. Now I have done that I am kinda a bit stumped hence this thread.
Also my LFS has given me a quote for water but am thinking it may be cheaper to get a RO unit - any views.
Many thanks again
 
Hi all,
I have been reading here for what seems like forever - and have finally plucked up the courage to set up my own tank.
I have purchased a Trigon 350 corner tank along with an Eheim 2217 external filter, and a V2 skim 600 protein skimmer. I have removed the built in filter from the Trigon hoping to rely on live rock and the Eheim.
But despite all the months of reading I still have some questions:
1. Is using the Eheim 2217 the right decision, and if so what filter media should I use?
2. I still have the standard lid fitted and would like to keep it this way (I have viewed stacks of pictures on this site with people who have done the same) but I am concerned about condensation affecting the lighting as the light sit very close to the top water mark.
3. Due to finances I would like to start the tank with some base rock and some live rock. Is this still ok? If so what kind of % base could I use? Would 50/50 be ok to save a bit of money. I am in no rush so could let the tank mature slowly.
Any advise would be gratefully received - please help!!!!

1. LR will do all your filtering, at least 1 kg per 10 litres, 1.5kgs per 10 litres better. Use the Eheim to house rowaphos and activated carbon only, no ther filter media. Run rowaphos from day 1 to prevent algae before it starts.
2. Standard lid is fine. Juwel lighting units are IP67 watertight connections. You will need to upgrade the lighting if you want to keep corals though.
3. 50/50 would be fine to seed the base rock. Make sure you buy the necessary test kits and monitor the levels.

Hope this helps,

Many thanks for your response.
I have read so many different things that I just needed some straight answers from someone and confirmation my first few purchases will work ok together.
I do plan to keep corals in the future but wanted to start small then upgrade as the money comes in. When you say upgrade the lighting - does this mean different tubes in my current set up or a completely new light set up.
I am not certain exactly what test kits I need at this stage as I have been concentrating on buying the more expensive ahrdware items 1st. Now I have done that I am kinda a bit stumped hence this thread.
Also my LFS has given me a quote for water but am thinking it may be cheaper to get a RO unit - any views.
Many thanks again

I have a Juwel Vision 180 myself and the juwel tanks come with T8 tubes x 2. I assume yours is the same?

You can just upgrade the T8's tubes to a marine white and actinic tubes to give a more oceany look, however I did this and is only good for mushrooms and some soft corals so was a waste of money really.
So I then bought an arcadia i-bar which is a direct replacement for the Juwel lighting unit. This gives you twin high output T5 lighting (I have 2 x 14k marine whites), I then screwed an additional actinic tube into the rear hood. This will allow you to keep most softies and LPS corals plus keep the standard enclosed Juwel hood (which is good as you don't get much evaporation causing the salinity to go up (as evaporation only loses water not salt)).
For sps corals you will need metal halide lighting or alot of T5 tubes..., but you will have to get rid of the hood.

To start with you will need ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, ph + a refractometer for sg is recommended. Salifert kits are very good. When you keep corals you should look at Calcium aswell as a minimum.

An RO unit is a wise investment indeed, check out www.osmotics.co.uk, you get a 10% discount as a site sponsor. Go for a RO/DI unit (reverse osmosis/de-ionising). I bought the 4 stage 50 gallon per day unit from there for around £60. Pays for itself very quickly, you'll always need fresh RO water.

Hope this helps,
 
are you planning any sort of sump for the tank? I have the same tank with tropicals in, I've thought about converting to marine but on that size tank I'd want a sump/fuge of some sort and due to the design of the cabinet it would be a nightmare to get anything in. we've decided against converting it to marine for just that reason.

the lighting on it would be no good for corals, upgrading the tubes would really only allow you to have mushrooms which isn't much really. It's a fairly deep tank too so for coral's I'd really recommend getting a Metal Halide or two for it.
 
Hi all,
I have been reading here for what seems like forever - and have finally plucked up the courage to set up my own tank.
I have purchased a Trigon 350 corner tank along with an Eheim 2217 external filter, and a V2 skim 600 protein skimmer. I have removed the built in filter from the Trigon hoping to rely on live rock and the Eheim.
But despite all the months of reading I still have some questions:
1. Is using the Eheim 2217 the right decision, and if so what filter media should I use?
2. I still have the standard lid fitted and would like to keep it this way (I have viewed stacks of pictures on this site with people who have done the same) but I am concerned about condensation affecting the lighting as the light sit very close to the top water mark.
3. Due to finances I would like to start the tank with some base rock and some live rock. Is this still ok? If so what kind of % base could I use? Would 50/50 be ok to save a bit of money. I am in no rush so could let the tank mature slowly.
Any advise would be gratefully received - please help!!!!

1. LR will do all your filtering, at least 1 kg per 10 litres, 1.5kgs per 10 litres better. Use the Eheim to house rowaphos and activated carbon only, no ther filter media. Run rowaphos from day 1 to prevent algae before it starts.
2. Standard lid is fine. Juwel lighting units are IP67 watertight connections. You will need to upgrade the lighting if you want to keep corals though.
3. 50/50 would be fine to seed the base rock. Make sure you buy the necessary test kits and monitor the levels.

Hope this helps,

Many thanks for your response.
I have read so many different things that I just needed some straight answers from someone and confirmation my first few purchases will work ok together.
I do plan to keep corals in the future but wanted to start small then upgrade as the money comes in. When you say upgrade the lighting - does this mean different tubes in my current set up or a completely new light set up.
I am not certain exactly what test kits I need at this stage as I have been concentrating on buying the more expensive ahrdware items 1st. Now I have done that I am kinda a bit stumped hence this thread.
Also my LFS has given me a quote for water but am thinking it may be cheaper to get a RO unit - any views.
Many thanks again

I have a Juwel Vision 180 myself and the juwel tanks come with T8 tubes x 2. I assume yours is the same?

You can just upgrade the T8's tubes to a marine white and actinic tubes to give a more oceany look, however I did this and is only good for mushrooms and some soft corals so was a waste of money really.
So I then bought an arcadia i-bar which is a direct replacement for the Juwel lighting unit. This gives you twin high output T5 lighting (I have 2 x 14k marine whites), I then screwed an additional actinic tube into the rear hood. This will allow you to keep most softies and LPS corals plus keep the standard enclosed Juwel hood (which is good as you don't get much evaporation causing the salinity to go up (as evaporation only loses water not salt)).
For sps corals you will need metal halide lighting or alot of T5 tubes..., but you will have to get rid of the hood.

To start with you will need ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, ph + a refractometer for sg is recommended. Salifert kits are very good. When you keep corals you should look at Calcium aswell as a minimum.

An RO unit is a wise investment indeed, check out www.osmotics.co.uk, you get a 10% discount as a site sponsor. Go for a RO/DI unit (reverse osmosis/de-ionising). I bought the 4 stage 50 gallon per day unit from there for around £60. Pays for itself very quickly, you'll always need fresh RO water.

Hope this helps,
Hi, My Trigon 350 has T8 lighting - 2 x 30w plus 2 x 15w blue moon lights. I bought the tank second hand and had assumed the blue lights came as standard but not certain. I have had the lights on but until I get water and rocks in the tank its hard to know really how powerful they are. I had not thought of adding new lights in the existing hood - to be honest I would not have thought the hood was strong enough - you have proved me wrong. Do you think I should look at doing this before setting the tank up or see how I go.
Cheers for the advise re test kits - I have been looking at lots of them but was a bit unsure which I needed for a starter tank. I have since my last post this morning just bought a refractometer - was not 100% sure if this was the best way of testing but am glad I got it now!!
I am just off now to look at osmotics.co.uk. I had heard lots of people saying that RO units were not worth having so am more motivated now you have said they pay for themselves quickly - on a bit of a tight budget to say the least!!
Many thanks again for your help - any other snippets of info always appreciated.
 
are you planning any sort of sump for the tank? I have the same tank with tropicals in, I've thought about converting to marine but on that size tank I'd want a sump/fuge of some sort and due to the design of the cabinet it would be a nightmare to get anything in. we've decided against converting it to marine for just that reason.

the lighting on it would be no good for corals, upgrading the tubes would really only allow you to have mushrooms which isn't much really. It's a fairly deep tank too so for coral's I'd really recommend getting a Metal Halide or two for it.

I had decided against a sump for the very reason you have stated. I have heard of a couple of people taking out the centre support to allow space but I just can't believe this is a safe thing to do. I know sumps are the best way forward but due to space restrictions I really had no choice but to get the trigon corner tank.
In all honesty i had never even heard of a sump when I first bought this tank - I am still on a steep steep learning curve.

I have looked at a few metal halides but I really can not afford them at the moment(plus was not sure if I needed them) - really thinking about getting to the stage of getting water and rocks in the tank then taking each step forward when I can afford it!
 
Hi all,
I have been reading here for what seems like forever - and have finally plucked up the courage to set up my own tank.
I have purchased a Trigon 350 corner tank along with an Eheim 2217 external filter, and a V2 skim 600 protein skimmer. I have removed the built in filter from the Trigon hoping to rely on live rock and the Eheim.
But despite all the months of reading I still have some questions:
1. Is using the Eheim 2217 the right decision, and if so what filter media should I use?
2. I still have the standard lid fitted and would like to keep it this way (I have viewed stacks of pictures on this site with people who have done the same) but I am concerned about condensation affecting the lighting as the light sit very close to the top water mark.
3. Due to finances I would like to start the tank with some base rock and some live rock. Is this still ok? If so what kind of % base could I use? Would 50/50 be ok to save a bit of money. I am in no rush so could let the tank mature slowly.
Any advise would be gratefully received - please help!!!!

1. LR will do all your filtering, at least 1 kg per 10 litres, 1.5kgs per 10 litres better. Use the Eheim to house rowaphos and activated carbon only, no ther filter media. Run rowaphos from day 1 to prevent algae before it starts.
2. Standard lid is fine. Juwel lighting units are IP67 watertight connections. You will need to upgrade the lighting if you want to keep corals though.
3. 50/50 would be fine to seed the base rock. Make sure you buy the necessary test kits and monitor the levels.

Hope this helps,

Many thanks for your response.
I have read so many different things that I just needed some straight answers from someone and confirmation my first few purchases will work ok together.
I do plan to keep corals in the future but wanted to start small then upgrade as the money comes in. When you say upgrade the lighting - does this mean different tubes in my current set up or a completely new light set up.
I am not certain exactly what test kits I need at this stage as I have been concentrating on buying the more expensive ahrdware items 1st. Now I have done that I am kinda a bit stumped hence this thread.
Also my LFS has given me a quote for water but am thinking it may be cheaper to get a RO unit - any views.
Many thanks again

I have a Juwel Vision 180 myself and the juwel tanks come with T8 tubes x 2. I assume yours is the same?

You can just upgrade the T8's tubes to a marine white and actinic tubes to give a more oceany look, however I did this and is only good for mushrooms and some soft corals so was a waste of money really.
So I then bought an arcadia i-bar which is a direct replacement for the Juwel lighting unit. This gives you twin high output T5 lighting (I have 2 x 14k marine whites), I then screwed an additional actinic tube into the rear hood. This will allow you to keep most softies and LPS corals plus keep the standard enclosed Juwel hood (which is good as you don't get much evaporation causing the salinity to go up (as evaporation only loses water not salt)).
For sps corals you will need metal halide lighting or alot of T5 tubes..., but you will have to get rid of the hood.

To start with you will need ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, ph + a refractometer for sg is recommended. Salifert kits are very good. When you keep corals you should look at Calcium aswell as a minimum.

An RO unit is a wise investment indeed, check out www.osmotics.co.uk, you get a 10% discount as a site sponsor. Go for a RO/DI unit (reverse osmosis/de-ionising). I bought the 4 stage 50 gallon per day unit from there for around £60. Pays for itself very quickly, you'll always need fresh RO water.

Hope this helps,
Hi, My Trigon 350 has T8 lighting - 2 x 30w plus 2 x 15w blue moon lights. I bought the tank second hand and had assumed the blue lights came as standard but not certain. I have had the lights on but until I get water and rocks in the tank its hard to know really how powerful they are. I had not thought of adding new lights in the existing hood - to be honest I would not have thought the hood was strong enough - you have proved me wrong. Do you think I should look at doing this before setting the tank up or see how I go.
Cheers for the advise re test kits - I have been looking at lots of them but was a bit unsure which I needed for a starter tank. I have since my last post this morning just bought a refractometer - was not 100% sure if this was the best way of testing but am glad I got it now!!
I am just off now to look at osmotics.co.uk. I had heard lots of people saying that RO units were not worth having so am more motivated now you have said they pay for themselves quickly - on a bit of a tight budget to say the least!!
Many thanks again for your help - any other snippets of info always appreciated.

T8 lighting is only good for mushies and some soft corals. Very limiting if you're going the coral route, you don't need to upgrade the lighting until you actually get some corals, which should be a few months away anyway. Best to wait a month or so before getting corals anyway.
 
I had decided against a sump for the very reason you have stated. I have heard of a couple of people taking out the centre support to allow space but I just can't believe this is a safe thing to do. I know sumps are the best way forward but due to space restrictions I really had no choice but to get the trigon corner tank.
In all honesty i had never even heard of a sump when I first bought this tank - I am still on a steep steep learning curve.

I have looked at a few metal halides but I really can not afford them at the moment(plus was not sure if I needed them) - really thinking about getting to the stage of getting water and rocks in the tank then taking each step forward when I can afford it!

yup same here, i wouldn't take the centre support out. i also bought the 350 due to living room space restrictions and in a way i wish i hadn't, it's an awkward bugger of a tank (although i should add this is mostly because it's not really suitable for the large cichlid i have in it, it gives enough room and he is quite content but the shape means I can't add any more fish with him and maintenance is hard)

yeah absolutely it's perfectly accepted and legitamate to go for a basic FOWLR set up and save up to go reef at a later date, gives the tank a chance to get fully established before you add delicate corals
 
Hi all,
I have been reading here for what seems like forever - and have finally plucked up the courage to set up my own tank.
I have purchased a Trigon 350 corner tank along with an Eheim 2217 external filter, and a V2 skim 600 protein skimmer. I have removed the built in filter from the Trigon hoping to rely on live rock and the Eheim.
But despite all the months of reading I still have some questions:
1. Is using the Eheim 2217 the right decision, and if so what filter media should I use?
2. I still have the standard lid fitted and would like to keep it this way (I have viewed stacks of pictures on this site with people who have done the same) but I am concerned about condensation affecting the lighting as the light sit very close to the top water mark.
3. Due to finances I would like to start the tank with some base rock and some live rock. Is this still ok? If so what kind of % base could I use? Would 50/50 be ok to save a bit of money. I am in no rush so could let the tank mature slowly.
Any advise would be gratefully received - please help!!!!

1. LR will do all your filtering, at least 1 kg per 10 litres, 1.5kgs per 10 litres better. Use the Eheim to house rowaphos and activated carbon only, no ther filter media. Run rowaphos from day 1 to prevent algae before it starts.
2. Standard lid is fine. Juwel lighting units are IP67 watertight connections. You will need to upgrade the lighting if you want to keep corals though.
3. 50/50 would be fine to seed the base rock. Make sure you buy the necessary test kits and monitor the levels.

Hope this helps,

Many thanks for your response.
I have read so many different things that I just needed some straight answers from someone and confirmation my first few purchases will work ok together.
I do plan to keep corals in the future but wanted to start small then upgrade as the money comes in. When you say upgrade the lighting - does this mean different tubes in my current set up or a completely new light set up.
I am not certain exactly what test kits I need at this stage as I have been concentrating on buying the more expensive ahrdware items 1st. Now I have done that I am kinda a bit stumped hence this thread.
Also my LFS has given me a quote for water but am thinking it may be cheaper to get a RO unit - any views.
Many thanks again

I have a Juwel Vision 180 myself and the juwel tanks come with T8 tubes x 2. I assume yours is the same?

You can just upgrade the T8's tubes to a marine white and actinic tubes to give a more oceany look, however I did this and is only good for mushrooms and some soft corals so was a waste of money really.
So I then bought an arcadia i-bar which is a direct replacement for the Juwel lighting unit. This gives you twin high output T5 lighting (I have 2 x 14k marine whites), I then screwed an additional actinic tube into the rear hood. This will allow you to keep most softies and LPS corals plus keep the standard enclosed Juwel hood (which is good as you don't get much evaporation causing the salinity to go up (as evaporation only loses water not salt)).
For sps corals you will need metal halide lighting or alot of T5 tubes..., but you will have to get rid of the hood.

To start with you will need ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, ph + a refractometer for sg is recommended. Salifert kits are very good. When you keep corals you should look at Calcium aswell as a minimum.

An RO unit is a wise investment indeed, check out www.osmotics.co.uk, you get a 10% discount as a site sponsor. Go for a RO/DI unit (reverse osmosis/de-ionising). I bought the 4 stage 50 gallon per day unit from there for around £60. Pays for itself very quickly, you'll always need fresh RO water.

Hope this helps,
Hi, My Trigon 350 has T8 lighting - 2 x 30w plus 2 x 15w blue moon lights. I bought the tank second hand and had assumed the blue lights came as standard but not certain. I have had the lights on but until I get water and rocks in the tank its hard to know really how powerful they are. I had not thought of adding new lights in the existing hood - to be honest I would not have thought the hood was strong enough - you have proved me wrong. Do you think I should look at doing this before setting the tank up or see how I go.
Cheers for the advise re test kits - I have been looking at lots of them but was a bit unsure which I needed for a starter tank. I have since my last post this morning just bought a refractometer - was not 100% sure if this was the best way of testing but am glad I got it now!!
I am just off now to look at osmotics.co.uk. I had heard lots of people saying that RO units were not worth having so am more motivated now you have said they pay for themselves quickly - on a bit of a tight budget to say the least!!
Many thanks again for your help - any other snippets of info always appreciated.

T8 lighting is only good for mushies and some soft corals. Very limiting if you're going the coral route, you don't need to upgrade the lighting until you actually get some corals, which should be a few months away anyway. Best to wait a month or so before getting corals anyway.
I now have my head full of RO units but I really can see the advantages.
It may sound a bit of a dumb question but where do I fit these units? I have an outside tap, could I just fit it there and have it drain into a large container. I have such a tiny under sink cupboard I cant imagine how I could have the storage there.
 
you can plumb them in anywhere that your water pipes run i think, you need access to the water coming into the house and to a drain for the waste. ours live sunder the understairs cupboard and is plumbed in. however before we plumbed it in we had it on a hose type attachment and plugged and unplugged it as we needed it so it just lived in the cupboard under the tank.
 

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