Set Up Tank, New Fish, Questions, Pics.

GTATransAm

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Hi guys! So I am 17 years old, and I do really enjoy watching and taking care of tropical fish. I've had this 10 gallon tank for a little over 3 years now. I had a male and a female angel fish in there that I managed to keep healthy for about 2 years until I gave them away because I moved across the country. So anyways, Yesterday I had the itch to set up my tank again. I took everything outside and spent about 2 hours cleaning EVERYTHING. Took out all the rocks cleaned all of the algae out of the tank, then cleaned the rocks by using a pasta strainer and a hose, cleaning a little at a time to make sure I got all bad stuff out of them. Took apart my filter and cleaned all the algae off the gears and everything. Put in a new filter, rinsed off all of my plants and decorative rocks. I got everything looking almost brand new and running good. So I filled it up with water which I used Prime to treat before adding to the tank. Everything was good. I left everything running So I could get the heater adjusted to keep the tank at about 78 degrees. I noticed before I went to bed that the water was getting a little bit cloudy so I added a teaspoon of Jungle no more algae liquid. I did get 5 new fish today, 2 dwarf gouramis, a wagtail platy, and two sunset platys. The fish look to be pretty happy in the tank, no fighting, they all are active, and they all are eating good. I use Tetra color tropical flakes to feed them. The only thing I am just a little bit worried about is the very slight cloudiness of the water. Anything I can do for that? Like I said the fish seem to be happy, and are eating good. Any tips for keeping these species of fish? Getting rid of the cloudiness? thanks!

I took some pictures of my tank, what do you guys think?

100_0496.jpg


100_0498.jpg
 
looks nice, I do think your good on stocking, but maybe add like 3 corydoras catfish? but otherwise, you should be fully stocked. The choice of stocking is great to, mollies and gouramis. nice orange flare. :good:

As for the water, I would Use some stuff called accu-clear. I put some in yesterday around noon, and now my 10 gallon looks great. Just put about 30 drops in, and the next day your tank should look great. :)

Welcome to the forums! :D
 
Well, I wouldn't add any more chemicals to your tank. Any time you set up a new tank with all brand new water, the tank will get cloudy. This is normal. The tank water needs to cycle through for about 24 hours before you add any fish. The tank will clear up after about 48 hours or so. The only way to avoid this is if you use 50% new water and 50% used water from another tank. In your case that would be, 5 Gallons new & 5 Gallons used. You should also dip your new filters in the used water before putting them into the filter. This puts vital bacteria on the filter that helps to stabilize your tank.
 
:hi: to TFF!

I am sorry to say that you are in what is called a "fish-in" cycle. This type of cycling is not the best way to go about setting up a new tank, but people do not know better. At first the tank seems just fine, then fish will begin to act weird, and start to die off, at this time the person will try to seek further advice via a forum like this. Here they will learn about the different methods about cycling a tank, at which point it is too late. The preferred method of cycling a tank is to do a "fishless" cycle, where you cycle a tank without fish, but instead use pure ammonia, which you can find at your local hardware store, to mimic ammonia produced from fish so the beneficial bacteria can then begin to colonize.

However, you are in a fish-in cycle, and if I were you I would return the fish to your local fish store (LFS) and perform a fishless cycle. If however you choose not to return the fish and keep doing what you are doing, you will be in for a lot of large daily water changes for about a month at least, that is if you want your fish to survive.

What happens is, ammonia is produced form your fish. Mainly ammonia is produced from when fish breathe and from fish waste and rotting fish food and other debris in the tank. What ever the case may be, whenever there are fish in a tank there is going to be an ammonia source. Ammonia is toxic to fish and can kill them if the ammonia gets over a level of .25 ppm (parts per million) The main way to get ammonia back down to 0 ppm is through a special bacteria called Autotrophic bacteria that eat ammonia. When these bacteria eat ammonia, the ammonia turns into nitrite. Nitrite is toxic to fish and can kill them if the nitrite gets over a level of .25 ppm. So, another type of bacteria begin to colonize that eat nitrite. When nitrite is processed by this second type of bacteria, it turns into nitrAte. Nitrate is safe to fish in levels to around 50 ppm. There is no type of bacteria that eat nitrate, so they only way to remove nitrate is by weekly water changes.

Now, it takes time to colonize enough bacteria to constantly keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 ppm. About 4-6 weeks on average. This process of colonizing these bacteria is called "cycling a tank."

One thing you need to perform a cycle properly, is a good LIQUID test kit, NOT a strip test kit. The API freshwater master test kit is a good LIQUID test kit that will test fore ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

Read here about cycling a tank:
(What is cycling) http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=175355
(Understanding the cycling (Nitrogen) process) http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=271928&hl=
(Fish-in cycling) http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306
(fishless cycling) http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861

Other than that, the only thing you really ever need to add to your water is a good water conditioner, to condition the water by removing chlorine and other harmful elements and metals. I would NOT use any chemical/product that claims to "remove this or that, or clears your tank instantly."

The white cloudy water is called a Bacterial Bloom. This happens in newly set-up tanks where the water because safe for bacteria to live, because of the water conditioner, and the bacteria (heterotrophic) instantly go to work on the organics in the water. So, the white cloudy water is actually millions of bacteria feeding on organics in the water. This is quite common and harmless in new tanks, don't worry about is as it will clear in a couple days, WITHOUT adding any chemical to the tank. These certain bacteria are so big, that you can not only see them with your naked eye, but they are so big that they cannot attach themselves to surfaces in your tank, so they are free-swimming within your water column. These bacteria will soon die off and your water will become clear. Also, these are not the kinds of bacteria you want in your tank, and the right bacteria will begin to colonize in your filter.

-FHM
 
Well, I wouldn't add any more chemicals to your tank. Any time you set up a new tank with all brand new water, the tank will get cloudy. This is normal. The tank water needs to cycle through for about 24 hours before you add any fish. The tank will clear up after about 48 hours or so. The only way to avoid this is if you use 50% new water and 50% used water from another tank. In your case that would be, 5 Gallons new & 5 Gallons used. You should also dip your new filters in the used water before putting them into the filter. This puts vital bacteria on the filter that helps to stabilize your tank.

Adding water from another tank to a new tank is going to have little to no effect. The beneficial bacteria colonize in the filter, not in the water.

Instead, add some filter media from a mature tank, into your new filter. This is where the bacteria are colonized, on the filter media. This will give your cycle a kick start.

-FHM
 
Apparently nitrate up to ~800ppm has no effect on most species of fish. Also, while there might not be a bacteria that eats nitrate, plants can make use of it.

OP's tank set up looks nice.
 
:hi: to TFF!

I am sorry to say that you are in what is called a "fish-in" cycle. This type of cycling is not the best way to go about setting up a new tank, but people do not know better. At first the tank seems just fine, then fish will begin to act weird, and start to die off, at this time the person will try to seek further advice via a forum like this. Here they will learn about the different methods about cycling a tank, at which point it is too late. The preferred method of cycling a tank is to do a "fishless" cycle, where you cycle a tank without fish, but instead use pure ammonia, which you can find at your local hardware store, to mimic ammonia produced from fish so the beneficial bacteria can then begin to colonize.

However, you are in a fish-in cycle, and if I were you I would return the fish to your local fish store (LFS) and perform a fishless cycle. If however you choose not to return the fish and keep doing what you are doing, you will be in for a lot of large daily water changes for about a month at least, that is if you want your fish to survive.

What happens is, ammonia is produced form your fish. Mainly ammonia is produced from when fish breathe and from fish waste and rotting fish food and other debris in the tank. What ever the case may be, whenever there are fish in a tank there is going to be an ammonia source. Ammonia is toxic to fish and can kill them if the ammonia gets over a level of .25 ppm (parts per million) The main way to get ammonia back down to 0 ppm is through a special bacteria called Autotrophic bacteria that eat ammonia. When these bacteria eat ammonia, the ammonia turns into nitrite. Nitrite is toxic to fish and can kill them if the nitrite gets over a level of .25 ppm. So, another type of bacteria begin to colonize that eat nitrite. When nitrite is processed by this second type of bacteria, it turns into nitrAte. Nitrate is safe to fish in levels to around 50 ppm. There is no type of bacteria that eat nitrate, so they only way to remove nitrate is by weekly water changes.

Now, it takes time to colonize enough bacteria to constantly keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 ppm. About 4-6 weeks on average. This process of colonizing these bacteria is called "cycling a tank."

One thing you need to perform a cycle properly, is a good LIQUID test kit, NOT a strip test kit. The API freshwater master test kit is a good LIQUID test kit that will test fore ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

Read here about cycling a tank:
(What is cycling) http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=175355
(Understanding the cycling (Nitrogen) process) http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=271928&hl=
(Fish-in cycling) http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306
(fishless cycling) http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861

Other than that, the only thing you really ever need to add to your water is a good water conditioner, to condition the water by removing chlorine and other harmful elements and metals. I would NOT use any chemical/product that claims to "remove this or that, or clears your tank instantly."

The white cloudy water is called a Bacterial Bloom. This happens in newly set-up tanks where the water because safe for bacteria to live, because of the water conditioner, and the bacteria (heterotrophic) instantly go to work on the organics in the water. So, the white cloudy water is actually millions of bacteria feeding on organics in the water. This is quite common and harmless in new tanks, don't worry about is as it will clear in a couple days, WITHOUT adding any chemical to the tank. These certain bacteria are so big, that you can not only see them with your naked eye, but they are so big that they cannot attach themselves to surfaces in your tank, so they are free-swimming within your water column. These bacteria will soon die off and your water will become clear. Also, these are not the kinds of bacteria you want in your tank, and the right bacteria will begin to colonize in your filter.

-FHM

:good:

FHM is absolutely right. you will need to get a liquid test kit, and be prepared to do daily (at least) WC until your tank is cycled.
 
Apparently nitrate up to ~800ppm has no effect on most species of fish. Also, while there might not be a bacteria that eats nitrate, plants can make use of it.

OP's tank set up looks nice.
Yes, you are right! Test have proven what you have said to be correct. It is just my opinion really, I don't think nitrate in a tank should get that high, and should not get that high when a tank is properly maintained; weekly water changes of around 20% at the least would keep the nitrate level at bay. In reality, nitrate in your tank should not exceed 20 ppm higher than your tap waters nitrate.

In a fresh water tank, there is no bacteria that can utilizes nitrate, so water changes are a must. And yes, plants use nitrate as an extra source of nutrients. However, in a salt water tank, there are bacteria, or whatever they are, that can utilize nitrate, and it turns it into nitrogen and it gases off. However, this is besides the point.

-FHM
 
Thanks for the replys guys, looks like I have to watch the tank very close for the next month. I was going to ask too, my tank has one of those bio filters in it besides the regular cartrage filter. I was wondering since this thing is not supposed to be changed, and it has been in the tank for more than two years will it still have the nessesarry bacteria on it after sitting for about 4 months? Also before I got to the store yesterday and bought the fish, the tank was running on a filter that was in my mature tank before I moved. For now, I am going to plan on changing about 50% of the water every 2 days. When I woke up this morning the water was a little bit more clear as well. Thanks guys.
 
Thanks for the replys guys, looks like I have to watch the tank very close for the next month. I was going to ask too, my tank has one of those bio filters in it besides the regular cartrage filter. I was wondering since this thing is not supposed to be changed, and it has been in the tank for more than two years will it still have the nessesarry bacteria on it after sitting for about 4 months? Also before I got to the store yesterday and bought the fish, the tank was running on a filter that was in my mature tank before I moved. For now, I am going to plan on changing about 50% of the water every 2 days. When I woke up this morning the water was a little bit more clear as well. Thanks guys.
4 months is too long for the bacteria to survive. That is good that you put put a filter in the tank that was on a mature tank before hand. But, if you cleaned this filer with tap water, like you stated in your first post, than the bacteria are probably wiped out.

Also, you always clean your media, never throw it away unless it is falling apart. When you clean your filter media, you do so in tank water. So, get a bucket of tank water and wash out your filter in there. However I would not suggest you wash your filter until your cycle has finish.

You really need to get a good liquid test kit, as a test kit is a must for any fish keeper. We need to know what your water stats are, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH to give you further detailed advice on what you need to do.

-FHM
 
the bacteria in your filter will only last a few hours at most and this is only if it is kept in tank water, I'm afraid to say that your going to have to follow the steps FHM has given you (listen to him he is very clever lol) read the article on fish in and fishless cycling if u keep your fish in then it must be EVERY day and you MUST condition the water before it goes in the tank or you risk killing your hard worked for filter bacteria. do this, get a water tester kit, I got mine off ebay, and test your water each day any once both ammonia and nitrIte stay at 0 you can change to weekly water changes of 20% but carry on testing each day just to make sure your levels are stayong low :)

I do agree and think your tank looks great! really nicely set up IMO :good:

edit: beat me to it! lol
 
Ok, I will look into getting liquid test kit today. How much do these test kits usually cost? I will look at the articles too. Thanks guys!
 
think mine was about £20 of ebay look for API master test kit I think it is, might seem a lot but better than having all your fish die!
 
Make sure the test kit is a LIQUID test kit! Look at the API freshwater master test kit. Other LIQUID test kits are Nutrafin and Salifert. But I think the API test kit is the best bang for your buck!

Mine was $28.00 (US dollars). So they are not that expensive at all and will last over a year!

Once you get the test kit and post the results, we will then be able to further give you advice about what to do!

-FHM
 
I got the API freshwater master kit today. $33, it was not cheap lol. Here are my levels as of about 20 mins ago.

Ammonia was at 1 ppm
pH was at 8.2
nitrite was 0
nitrate was at 5ppm

Suggestions? from what I read in the book, the pH is too high? What should I do?
 

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