All you do is establish a "startpoint" hour, typically morning or evening when you are home to do it and which then would also find you at home for testing at the "midpoint" 12 hours hence. Say you added your 5ppm ammonia at 8am. Then at 8pm you'd measure ammonia, nitrite(NO2) and pH and record the results (along with the date and time) in your log. Then, the next morning around 8am, you measure again. Only if ammonia went all the way down to zero at this "24hour" test (or at your previous "12hour" test) would you recharge ammonia to 5ppm. You only ever recharge ammonia at the 24hour mark, never at 12, and only if you reached zero.
In the early days of fishless cycling its common to go days without adding ammonia, even a whole 2 weeks after the very first add of ammonia sometimes. But before too long it'll start dropping to zero within 24 hours. Then gradually the drop time will get closer to 12 hours.
Meanwhile, you'll start to see a few nitrites(NO2) at some point, but usually just smaller amounts. At some point, the nitrites(NO2) reading will "spike" as we say, which means its just the highest reading the liquid test can give you. After that, you'll be in this "nitrite spike" phase for many days usually, but then one day that too will drop within 24 hours and then will start dropping faster.
One thing to watch out for is that pH doesn't drop too low. pH of 6.2 will stall the process, so you'll need to alert members if that looks like its coming.
The goal is to someday (meanwhile your kids will be progressing in school years,

, sorry, couldn't help it) have both ammonia and nitrite drop from the 5ppm ammonia to both being zero at the 12 hour testing point. Once that happens, you "qualify" and can start your qualification week! If it keeps dropping to double-zero like that then you can do the big water change and get your initial fish stocking, Yea!
~~waterdrop~~
