Rinsing activated carbon

Lindat

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Hi All. I have been rinsing a new bag of activated carbon to add to by external canister filter for days. The box says rinse until the water is clear. The carbon was rinsing jet black but now when the net it sits in a the bowl of water remains clear. But when I move the bag about it runs grey. Is it clean enough to be added to the filter? I read that if it isn't rinsed enough the carbon particles can block fish gills.
 
It should stay clear when you swoosh it around. Do you have a specific reason for needing to use carbon? It needs to be replaced every 4-6 weeks and could pollute your tank if you don't. I would not recommend this unless you have a specific need to use it.
 
I don’t use carbon either. In fact, I remove it from cartridges.
 
It should stay clear when you swoosh it around. Do you have a specific reason for needing to use carbon? It needs to be replaced every 4-6 weeks and could pollute your tank if you don't. I would not recommend this unless you have a specific need to use it.

Hi Seangee
I was intending to use the carbon because it came with the filter. I am cycling a new tank (without fish) and the fish I will be putting in it like soft water. I believe carbon helps maintain soft water. I haven't tested my water parameters yet. Tank has been set up for almost a week (without carbon) and I am just about to test.
 
Hi Seangee
I was intending to use the carbon because it came with the filter. I am cycling a new tank (without fish) and the fish I will be putting in it like soft water. I believe carbon helps maintain soft water. I haven't tested my water parameters yet. Tank has been set up for almost a week (without carbon) and I am just about to test.

Carbon will not soften water, it has no effect on minerals (calcium and magnesium are the primary minerals for GH). If your test kit does not include a test for GH (this is usually a separate test, though some strips have it) you may be able to ascertain the GH of your tap water from your municipal water authority, check their website or call them. You/we need to know the number and their unit of measurement (mg/l, ppm, degrees, whatever). Softening hard water is possible but it is involved and requires diluting the water with "pure" water such as Reverse Osmosis, distilled, or sometimes rainwater (if otherwise safe to use). This can get expensive, and it means having to prepare the water to use at water changes. It is much easier to select fish suited to the parameters of your water. But let's see what they are before worrying about this.

Carbon will remove organics and certain substances (medications for example). It does this by adsorbing (note, adsorb, not absorb) the substance, but this only works up to the point where the carbon is saturated and no further. There is no way to "refresh" carbon, so once it is saturated it will no longer do anything. It will obviously be a bed for bacteria like any filter media is, but nothing more. I agree with other members that it is generally not worth using except when removing medications or similar.

As for rinsing the carbon initially, I would only give it a good swish in a bucket of tap water, then use it. The residue generally does not come off in the filter, but even it it does it is harmless to fish.
 
Remembering back to the 60's, activated carbon and filter floss were the 'media of the day'. In time it has fallen to disfavor by most hobbyists, especially in planted tanks where the carbon adsorbs nutrients (aka pollution) that could be used by the plants. It is true that it has a short use life of just a few weeks...but it is an excellent 'chemical' filtration media, and is used in most kitchen sink filters.
As Byron points out, a thorough rinse in tap water to remove dust like particles is fine.
I tend to agree that due to the cost and the relatively short use life with no means of regeneration, it's not all that practical in the aquarium. The exception, as posted above, is in removing medications and/or special cases where water remediation is necessary.
Your best measure in maintaining high water quality is routine periodic partial water changes. So don't buy activated carbon but invest in ways to make water changes faster/easier.
 
Remembering back to the 60's, activated carbon and filter floss were the 'media of the day'. In time it has fallen to disfavor by most hobbyists, especially in planted tanks where the carbon adsorbs nutrients (aka pollution) that could be used by the plants. It is true that it has a short use life of just a few weeks...but it is an excellent 'chemical' filtration media, and is used in most kitchen sink filters.
As Byron points out, a thorough rinse in tap water to remove dust like particles is fine.
I tend to agree that due to the cost and the relatively short use life with no means of regeneration, it's not all that practical in the aquarium. The exception, as posted above, is in removing medications and/or special cases where water remediation is necessary.
Your best measure in maintaining high water quality is routine periodic partial water changes. So don't buy activated carbon but invest in ways to make water changes faster/easier.

Thanks Abbey'sDad. I'm about to buy a 'Python' to help quicken up water changes. Especially as my new tank is tall.
 
Carbon will not soften water, it has no effect on minerals (calcium and magnesium are the primary minerals for GH). If your test kit does not include a test for GH (this is usually a separate test, though some strips have it) you may be able to ascertain the GH of your tap water from your municipal water authority, check their website or call them. You/we need to know the number and their unit of measurement (mg/l, ppm, degrees, whatever). Softening hard water is possible but it is involved and requires diluting the water with "pure" water such as Reverse Osmosis, distilled, or sometimes rainwater (if otherwise safe to use). This can get expensive, and it means having to prepare the water to use at water changes. It is much easier to select fish suited to the parameters of your water. But let's see what they are before worrying about this.

Carbon will remove organics and certain substances (medications for example). It does this by adsorbing (note, adsorb, not absorb) the substance, but this only works up to the point where the carbon is saturated and no further. There is no way to "refresh" carbon, so once it is saturated it will no longer do anything. It will obviously be a bed for bacteria like any filter media is, but nothing more. I agree with other members that it is generally not worth using except when removing medications or similar.

As for rinsing the carbon initially, I would only give it a good swish in a bucket of tap water, then use it. The residue generally does not come off in the filter, but even it it does it is harmless to fish.
Thank you for the advice.
 
Think long and hard before you purchase the python, especially if you need one with a 50 foot hose. I too thought this would speed up my water changes, instead it became a massive pain in the neck. Also always have somebody helping you. One end connects to your kitchen water facet - don't even try a bathroom waterfaucet. If you have a deep laundry tub sink that would be best. This is because to suction the water you have to turn up your water pressure about as high as it will go (especially if you want suction for a 50 ft hose. I was once suctioning away not realizing that 50 feet away in my kitchen, the drain was too slow to empty both the water I was suctioning as well as the full pressure of water you have to run to get enough suction. The sink pipe is old and probably needs replaced or perhaps got plugged but I ended up with water all over my kitchen floor. This is why a second person is needed at least to check on things.

Next problem, so you suction and some curious fish try to get in the hose - the hose opening is plenty big to allow it. Luckily I've always pulled it away before they've swam or been suctioned in. you are going to have to quickly turn off the pressure on the hose and dump the fish out.

Finally - again this is really a 50 ft hose problem - getting rid of all the water in the hose can be either comical or frustrating depending on your attitude. I first pull the hose out of the tank and run the suction mode on the Python - this, you would think, would suction all the leftover water in the hose and it mostly does except for some little pockets of water up and down the hose. So you spend time unfolding and refolding the hose to try to consolidate all those pockets of water so you can suction them out. It don't come easy the first few times you do it - in fact it took well over an hour. But I've got it down to about 1/2 hour now.

Currently I use a gravel suction hose that dumps the water into a bucket. It has a screen on it so no curious fish can get in, but that also means debris can quickly clog it. Once the bucket is filled, I dump it in the toilet. Then start again filling the bucket. I usually remove 5-6 buckets x3 gallon bucket on my 29 gallon tanks. And the rest leaves enough for the fish to breath. Like the python you want to turn off your filter and heater before starting but I leave the air stones on. Once I've removed the water by bucket, I put a capful of prime in and fill up the bucket in my bathtub. The slowly pour it into the tank. It takes me quite a while because I can't lift all 3 gallons and have to use a can to take out the water manually until it's down to about 1 1/2 gallon (my best friend can just lift the entire bucket and pour it in - I don't know how she got so strong). (I'm sure there are people that can do this with a 5 gallon bucket which would really speed things up) This takes me about 1/2 the time of using the python UNLESS I'm doing all four tanks the same day - then you can leave the python connected and turn it to siphon or add water as you get to each aquarium - then It probably would be worth setting it up. Just make sure you have somebody keeping an eye on it (and NOT your 8 yr old - they will forget to check it after about 3 minutes.)
 
My python only has a 25’ hose and it is plenty to go from my kitchen to my den and also my patio for my pond. I can imagine a 50’ being a real pain. I have sucked up a fish before but if you pull the tube out if the water then the water falls back in the tank and the fish goes home. Lol.
 
just once I did have the "stopped up sink" problem and it caused a mini-flood. Now I make sure to run the kitchen disposal and run the water to be sure it drains quickly. Haven't had a problem since then. In the basement, I have a large utility sink with deep basin. And the faucet has outside threads which the python will hook directly too. Faucet has loads of water pressure for fast syphoning of the 2 basement tanks. I can do wc on the 29 gallon and the 35 gallon hex in about 20 minutes total, including wiping the lid down and repriming the filters. The 10 gallon and 5 gallon tanks are upstairs and i hook the python to the kitchen sink. I can do both tanks in about 10 minutes.

I find the Python makes thinks go much quicker and easier than doing a bucket brigade. I have 35 feet of hose attached to the python. To drain the hose, I leave the suction mode on and coil the hose gradually and watch that the water is not collecting in the rolled up portion. Works great for me and my tanks.

You might give the python another try. It is much more convenient than the bucket method especially if you are handicapped. I have a chronic back issue and having to use buckets would be near impossible for me. If you have excess hose length, you might shorten the hose by undoing the mid connection, cutting the hose, and reattach the fittings.
 
I have never had a problem with my python. When I'm done I suction all water that I can out and simply hold the hose up and coil around my arm as I walk to the kitchen sink to fully empty.
 
I have never had a problem with my python. When I'm done I suction all water that I can out and simply hold the hose up and coil around my arm as I walk to the kitchen sink to fully empty.

This is exactly my method too.
 
Think long and hard before you purchase the python, especially if you need one with a 50 foot hose. I too thought this would speed up my water changes, instead it became a massive pain in the neck. Also always have somebody helping you. One end connects to your kitchen water facet - don't even try a bathroom waterfaucet. If you have a deep laundry tub sink that would be best. This is because to suction the water you have to turn up your water pressure about as high as it will go (especially if you want suction for a 50 ft hose. I was once suctioning away not realizing that 50 feet away in my kitchen, the drain was too slow to empty both the water I was suctioning as well as the full pressure of water you have to run to get enough suction. The sink pipe is old and probably needs replaced or perhaps got plugged but I ended up with water all over my kitchen floor. This is why a second person is needed at least to check on things.

Next problem, so you suction and some curious fish try to get in the hose - the hose opening is plenty big to allow it. Luckily I've always pulled it away before they've swam or been suctioned in. you are going to have to quickly turn off the pressure on the hose and dump the fish out.

Finally - again this is really a 50 ft hose problem - getting rid of all the water in the hose can be either comical or frustrating depending on your attitude. I first pull the hose out of the tank and run the suction mode on the Python - this, you would think, would suction all the leftover water in the hose and it mostly does except for some little pockets of water up and down the hose. So you spend time unfolding and refolding the hose to try to consolidate all those pockets of water so you can suction them out. It don't come easy the first few times you do it - in fact it took well over an hour. But I've got it down to about 1/2 hour now.

Currently I use a gravel suction hose that dumps the water into a bucket. It has a screen on it so no curious fish can get in, but that also means debris can quickly clog it. Once the bucket is filled, I dump it in the toilet. Then start again filling the bucket. I usually remove 5-6 buckets x3 gallon bucket on my 29 gallon tanks. And the rest leaves enough for the fish to breath. Like the python you want to turn off your filter and heater before starting but I leave the air stones on. Once I've removed the water by bucket, I put a capful of prime in and fill up the bucket in my bathtub. The slowly pour it into the tank. It takes me quite a while because I can't lift all 3 gallons and have to use a can to take out the water manually until it's down to about 1 1/2 gallon (my best friend can just lift the entire bucket and pour it in - I don't know how she got so strong). (I'm sure there are people that can do this with a 5 gallon bucket which would really speed things up) This takes me about 1/2 the time of using the python UNLESS I'm doing all four tanks the same day - then you can leave the python connected and turn it to siphon or add water as you get to each aquarium - then It probably would be worth setting it up. Just make sure you have somebody keeping an eye on it (and NOT your 8 yr old - they will forget to check it after about 3 minutes.)

Thanks for the advice Jan. I especially liked the tip about the 8 year old!
 

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