Hi Fadi and welcome to the forum.
You can get test kits from most any fish store or online (not sure where you live). I use the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals (API) kits. It seems to be the most common one on this forum. Make sure you get a master kit so you can test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. In the US the API kit sells for about $25 to $30. It isn't absolutely necessary but it also helps to have a KH test kit too.
As for the bacteria, they breakdown fish waste (ammonia). First bacteria will form that transforms ammonia (a toxin to fish, more toxic as the pH gets higher) into nitrite (another toxin to fish). Once there is nitrite, another type of bacteria will form that transforms the nitrite into nitrate (only toxic at high levels).
Optimally, you should never have ammonia or nitrite in the tank. The readings on those should always be zero. Nitrate isn't broken down by bacteria and can only be removed through water changes. As long as the nitrate level is below 60 to 80 (preferable below 40), it is ok for the fish but high nitrate levels may well lead to algae problems.
Since you already have fish, you will have to keep a check on the ammonia and nitrite levels and do water changes as needed to keep the levels down below .5 if at all possible. Sometimes this may take daily or even twwice a day water changes of 15 to 25 percent.
If you had your tank for 2 years, it most likely was cycled, you just didn't know it. The bacteria will develop as long as there is an ammonia source which fish are (they like to eat and poop). Some fish are hardier than others and can handle the higher levels of ammonia and nitrite in a cycling tank. I have never had mollies or gouramis so I'm not sure how they will do in a cycling tank. Just get a test kit and keep an eye on the ammonia and nitrite. Good luck.