Quick Question

The December FOTM Contest Poll is open!
FishForums.net Fish of the Month
🏆 Click to vote! 🏆

jag51186

Fishaholic
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
400
Reaction score
48
Location
US
I think I'm finally going to get the motivation up, and set up my quarantine on Thursday. I'm planning on having a permanent quarantine that's basically just going to have plants growing in it and I'll probably make it an ongoing aquascape project or something...But anyway...

All the plants in my main tank are big enough that they need trimmed, or could at least handle a good trim. I plan on putting the trimmings from the stem plants in my quarantine to get things going.

My question is, I know all the stem plants can just be planted directly, but if I wanted to put in some water sprite, I would need to get into the substrate and break off the roots and everything correct??

Also, I know most people don't keep permanent quarantine tanks running, and that some medications/treatments can be hard on plants. But I'll probably have a fairly regular supply from the show tank trimmings.
 
My question is, I know all the stem plants can just be planted directly, but if I wanted to put in some water sprite, I would need to get into the substrate and break off the roots and everything correct??
 
 
I'm not understanding this...perhaps you could elucidate?
 
Also, I know most people don't keep permanent quarantine tanks running, and that some medications/treatments can be hard on plants. But I'll probably have a fairly regular supply from the show tank trimmings.
 
 
As I think you know, I do keep a 20g QT tank permanently running, with plants obviously.  I planted it with culls/spares/adventitious plants from the main tanks.  I have only once or twice had to use medications in the QT tank, and following these it is usually best to discard the plants anyway, as most any treatment will affect plants detrimentally to some degree, plus you may want to be certain you get rid of the disease problem.
 
In spite of the possible issues, I do believe this is the best method for quarantining new fish.  They go into an established tank that is biologically stable, and this allows them to settle in much easier, reducing stress and thus in effect reducing the possibility of most disease right off the bat.
 
Byron.
 
Sorry, I got too wordy lol. If I wanted to transfer water sprite from my main tank to my QT, I can't just trim it off and plant it can I?? I need to actually get some roots??
 
Water sprite should root from any part of the plant; it doesn't have to have roots to start with.
 
Now I am getting confused...but I think we may be thinking of different plants.
 
Water Sprite to me refers to a species of Ceratopteris, and is sometimes called India Fern.  There are three species that may be seen in the hobby, though one of these rarely is.  Ceratopteris cornuta is best floating, but it can be rooted in the substrate but needs very good light if it is.  The other species is C. thalictroides which does better when rooted in the substrate but it will also float.  The leaves are different to distinguish the species.  Adventitious plants will rapidly form on alternate leaves of C. cornuta, and while this also occurs with C. thalictroides it is very much slower.
 
Wisteria is the common name of Hygrophila difformis, a stem plant that grows rapidly and can be rooted in the substrate or allowed to float.  This plant will develop roots and leaves from every node along the stem.
 
I have often seen these two plants referred to by the opposite common name on forums, and I think that may be happening here.  I've had C. cornuta for many years, but roots have never appeared from the leaves (except for the adventitious plants obviously) when I have broken them off.
 
To your initial question jag51186, you would have to pull up the plant (assuming your Water Sprite is planted in the substrate) and move the entire plant.  Or you could carefully pull off some adventitious plants if there are any, and float/plant those.  
 
Byron.
 
I prefer to run a small biofarm to keep cycled filter in/on so I can set up a tank and make it nitrogen safe right away.
 
There are basically 2 approaches one can take to Q (and Hospital) tanks. Once is to have a permanently set up tank for this or set one up as needed. I prefer the latter approcah for a few reasons.
 
First, the purpose of a Q tank is to catch amy potential problems in it rather than have them occur in the main tank. When they do, we respond by treating the fish appropriately or at least as well as we can. Diagnosing many fish ailments is not easy. Often we are giving it out best guess because we are not really certain what the problem might be. So when we have problems, we may or may not know what the cause is and we may or may not treat it successfully. The problems are when we fail in this effort and lose the fish.
 
In such cases it matter whether one's tank is intended to be going all the time or its a temporary tank. If one has a fully functional tank where the fish have all died and we do not know why, how can we know what is needed to insure the tank is safe once again? So the only option is to sterilize or destroy much of what is in the tank. We can bleach rocks, the hardware and even many plants. But we can not save the good bacteria. So we must throw out the media, many of the plants and perhaps any wood as well.
 
On the other hand if one has a tank with rocks, fake plants and a cycled sponge filter, when faced with the situation above, all we might lose is the cycled sponge.We can sterilize everything else involved and safely reuse it down the road. This approach is even more important in a hospital tank. Fish going into a Q tank may or may not have issues, but fish going into and H tank we know are sick in some way.
 
There is one other consideration here as well. Some of the cures we may have to employ can kill off the bacteria we need. When this is the case, we will be trashing the bio-filter. So for my part I never bother with cycling considerations in an H tank. I rely on water changes done every day or every other day at most. This method is not normally useful for Q tanks since, in my case, Q lasts between 1 and 3 months depending on the fish and from where it came. And these time periods assume I have no issues. Any treatment  wfor anything resets the timer to 0 once the fish have been "cured".
 
What approach people use depends on their specific situation. The most important consideration in how you deal with either a Q or an H tank is what you do when the fish do not make it and you are not 100% certain of why they died. It is a lot easier for hobbyists like Byron or myself who have a fair number of established tanks and usually a few empty spares as well to manage using a Q tank. This gives us a lot of options. For people with one or two tanks, the choices are not the same.
 
No matter what system one develops for doing Q, the most important consideration is to be quarantining in the first place, Until you have wiped out a tank full of fish you have had for some time, you will not appreciate the benefits of and need for quarantining new fish. I have a number of fish now that i have had for over 10 years, I know I would be miserable if I lost any of them because I failed to Q new fish going in with them.
 
Thanks for all the info. I have an old twenty gallon long tank that I am leak testing to be used for quarantine. How long do you leave it filled before you are satisfied?? It's been sitting full for 24 hours now.

Also to Byron this is the plant I was referring to...

dqn0gy.jpg


2iw1xky.jpg
 
I believe that is Ceratopteris thalictroides.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top