Pretty sure this is fin rot

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Tacocat

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Hi there, I've noticed that the top of my betta's dorsal fin has been looking a little spiky and tattered lately, and upon closer inspection it appears to be fin rot, but I've never had this problem before so I would like to confirm with people who actually know what they're doing. None of the other fish nor his other fins have fin rot, and everyone else seems fine. I doubt that it's a water quality issue as I did a water change 2 days ago, but I noticed this a week ago and yesterday it seemed to have gotten slightly worse, so I would like to fix it as soon as possible.

I'm supposed to put 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons right? I do have a single tetra(parents not wanting to return fish), and I read that they react worse to overdose of salt, so I would like to reconfirm.
 

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Relax, keep the water changes regular and enjoy. I don't see any disease there - just a raggedy fin.
 
It looks to me like its been nipped and shredded, more than fin rot. What is the tank size, tank mates, and water parameters?
 
It looks to me like its been nipped and shredded, more than fin rot. What is the tank size, tank mates, and water parameters?
Oh, yeah that makes more sense then. Time to remove some fish ig, if I can.

edit: tank size: 5 gal
mates: 3 rasboras and a tetra, which I have been trying to return but parents see this as wasting money.
params: haven't tested yet
 
Oh, yeah that makes more sense then. Time to remove some fish ig, if I can.

edit: tank size: 5 gal
mates: 3 rasboras and a tetra, which I have been trying to return but parents see this as wasting money.
params: haven't tested yet
tetra is probably nipping since it is not in a school
sharp deco?
 
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.

If there's no improvement after a week or water changes or it gets worse during that time, add some salt, (see directions below).

----------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no l
onger than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 
tetra is probably nipping since it is not in a school
sharp deco?
No, all real plants, and the rocks are low but somehow he sometimes wedges himself between the rocks and the glass.
 
For reference this is the tank
IMG-3190.jpg
 
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.

If there's no improvement after a week or water changes or it gets worse during that time, add some salt, (see directions below).

----------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no l
onger than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
I can't do the water changes as I don't have the time to do this, but I will add salt if I can find any.
 
Even if you could do the 75% water changes two days a week in would make such a difference, if this really is fin rot. I think it is the tetra or rasboras being nippy.
 
Even if you could do the 75% water changes two days a week in would make such a difference, if this really is fin rot. I think it is the tetra or rasboras being nippy.
I will do a larger water change this week though, just in case.
 

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