Planted Aquaria Advice

rickster32

Mostly New Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
GB
Hi all,
Might be looking to change my tank to a planted setup, its an established tank (1.5 yrs) with a sand substrate.  I have looked around the web for how to go about it etc, but would like some advice from here if possible.  My tank is 4x2x2 approx 400 ltrs,  What I need to know is what substrate will I need under the sand, and how much, I am planning to take out fish etc to do it as I feel that's the easier route.  I am not planning on using a Co2 setup either, so will I need to add ferts etc?  All advice and tips would be most help.
 
Thanks
 
First, your sand substrate is fine on its own.  And given it has over a year's worth of organics (no matter how you may "clean" it, organics will still accumulate), it is excellent for plants and gives you the advantage most of us who set up tanks with new sand do not have.  Just be careful how you plant, if you intend substrate-rooted plants.  This could make quite a mess.  What I do in such cases is clean the area I intend to plant first, meaning the exact are that will be disturbed for a plant's root system.  Siphon out some of the sand in that exact spot, and use it to fill in when the plant is in.
 
With this in mind, you could leave the fish.  This rather depends upon the fish and how much planting.  If you have chunks of wood or rock that will move, the sand under these should be cleaned or you can have a real mess.  And if this is extensive, moving the fish to a temporary tank may be better.  I've done both.  Given the stress of netting fish, and this twice, unless it will be a major upheaval they are probably best left where they are, if you can work in one area at a time.  I have found them very inquisitive, and when I sit down to have a look at the area I've re-planted, most of the fish are already there checking it out.  Looking for "food" primarily, but still it is nice to see.
 
As for fertilzers, this depends upon the plants, and they depend upon the lighting.  Different species of plants have different light requirements, which in turn affects nutrient requirements to balance.  We can go into this more when we have a better idea of the lighting.  Substrate tabs, like Seachem's Flourish Tabs, can be sufficient for larger plants like swords.  Upper plants, like floating and those not rooted in the substrate obviously will not benefit from fertilizers in the substrate, but it is sometimes amazing how many nutrients occur naturally without needing supplementation.  This is where your CO2 will come from too, the breakdown of organics in the substrate.  Another advantage with an older substrate.
 
As you are not planning on diffused CO2, you are looking at what we term a low-tech or natural planted tank.  I've had these for over 20 years.  Your lighting is the critical component, and if pants suited to the lighting are selected, and then nutrients supplemented if necessary, you are off to a roaring start.  The GH of the source water is also worth knowing, as this is a major source of the "hard" minerals.
 
Byron.
 
As to fertilizers as byron said it will depend on the plants and lighting.  however it will also depend on the water and what is in it.  hard and soft water have different mineral compositions.  If your water is very soft, distilled, or RO water it will not have enough of the right mineral sin it to support plant growth.  Hard water will have more minerals but it may not have enough of the ones critical to plants.  Some people will be lucky and have tap water perfect for growing plants.  However most have water that is too soft, too hard, high or low KH, high or low PH, have high Nitrate, or even high phosphates.  Others may be missing a critical micro nutrient that will prevent any plant growth or cause plants to grow very slowly.  
 
The best thing you can do is to find out what is in your tap water now.  Gh (hardness), KH (alkalinity) tests are readily available in addition to the regular PH, and nitrogen tests.  However tests for the other 10 or so critical minerals are hard to find, expensive, or simply not available.  You can however go to your local water utility web page and look up its water quality report.  These are typically very detailed.  If you provide a link to it that would help give use a better idea as to what your water is like.
 
Hi,
Thanks for all the advice so far, I have managed to get a copy of water quality as follows:
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20160912-155805.png
    Screenshot_20160912-155805.png
    65.3 KB · Views: 140
 
 
Hi,
Thanks for all the advice so far, I have managed to get a copy of water quality as follows:


Attached Thumbnails
Well I cannot tell you much.  water has about 40 ppm nitrate(ideal is 20ppm or less). PH is 7.3 which is OK. There appears to be quite a bit of sodium in the water. The conductivity reading can be used to estimate TDS and it looks like it might be hard water. . Ideally we would have a GH or KH number but we don't. There is nothing listed for calcium or magnesium   or potassium.  
 
Test your water for nitrates.  If it is high you will need to lower the nitrate by using a filter or by switching to distilled or RO water.  If you use RO or distilled water you will need to fertilize.   It might be hard water.  But you would need to find a better report or test your water for GH.  
 

Most reactions

Back
Top