Ph - Fishless Cycle Vs Tank Maintenance

[CrustyOnEastCoast]

So, my tap water has 1.5 or higher ppm of Ammonia. Maybe with a mature biological filter my aquarium will be able to break that down quickly if I do very small water changes. But my equipment is cheap, my tank is small (5 gallon), and, more importantly, so many times on this forum and elsewhere I see people get into emergencies (unexpected ammonia, or nitrite spikes). The recommendation ... immediate, large water changes. An emergency measure I just won't be able to do with my water supply. Just having a different, backup water supply is not good either, since the Ph level values will probably vary too much for me to add the backup supply water in ... leaving me stuck in an emergency (my tap water is ph 8.0, moderately hard to hard).

So, that is the backdrop for why I am considering using RO water and adding minerals to it. (My tank is only 5 gallons so it won't be too expensive. I can buy it for 50 cents/gallon.

I see it said everywhere, keep your Ph high for your fishless cycle. Well, when I maintain my tank, my water is likely to be more like 7.0 - 7.4 ph and much softer (which is good from the standpoint that the ammonia will be much less toxic).

So, how do people with aquariums with 7.0ph maintain a good biological filter if you aren't allowed to do a fishless cycle with a ph of less than 7.4?

 

[Gvilleguy]

The only reason we say to bump up the pH during a fish less cycle is because the bacteria that we grow in the filter reproduce more quickly in higher pH. It just speeds up the process. The bacteria still process ammonia and nitrites even at a pH of 6.0, which is what I have. They just do it much more slowly. Is this what you were asking?

I have 0.25 ammonia in my tap water, but nothing like you are dealing with. It certainly makes it an issue for you if something goes wrong with your media. You might have a good idea to go with the alternate source.

 

[CrustyOnEastCoast]

Gvilleguy, yes, that is what I was asking.

Thanks!

(Wow, at a ph of 6, I guess you'll never have free ammonia in your tank. Ammonium, maybe, but not ammonia).

 

[Aqua Tom]

Gvilleguy, yes, that is what I was asking.

Thanks!

(Wow, at a ph of 6, I guess you'll never have free ammonia in your tank. Ammonium, maybe, but not ammonia).

This is one for Waterdrop methinks

 

[CrustyOnEastCoast]

waterdrop once told me that as long as I make very small water changes and my tank is fully cycled, I should be okay with the tap water, even with ammonia 1.5 to 20ppm.

I am working on a fishless cycle, but I am a total newbie, and I am likely to mess something up down the road, like overfeed, wash my filter cartridge too aggressively or whatever, and need an emergency water change with clean water.

Just nervous .. small aquarium .. the kids have already seen the fish die once. Maybe I'll get a betta .. I don't want to abuse the fish .. but maybe that is my best chance for success.

 

[jonathand]

A lot of people on here recommend Seachem Prime water conditioner.

It can detoxify ammonia and be dosed higher in emergency situations, so might be worth looking at in your situation.

http/www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html

 

[CrustyOnEastCoast]

jonathand, I agree that would be the best conditioner for me to use.

But, if I understand things correctly .. "detoxifying ammonia" means "changing the ammonia to ammonium for about 24 hours". So, my tap water still results in an increased bio load on my system. The addition of the ammonia, while temporarily rendered "safe" by seachem prime still must be consumed by my bacteria populations of nitrosomonas, and nitrobacter (or whatever they are called) in 24 hours .. and those bacteria will already be busy handling my existing load of fish ... and they don't multiply quickly.

Regardless of the water I use, I'll probably keep some Seachem Prime on hand.