Parasitic Worm Infection (i Am Desperate)

newfishaddict

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In my 55g my rainbows, and in my 29g my angel, shows signs (thin red filaments , the worm, coming out of their anus) of Camallanus parasitic worm infection. I have read an article that says to use “levamisole hydrochloride”. I spoke to a animal pharmacist today that said it was no longer made, and perhaps I could find it on the internet….This will not be easy to get quickly...

A few weeks back one rainbow fish died and had short thin red worm(s) comming out of its anus.
Yesterday I saw these red worms comming out of my angelfish that is a different tank, now I am very concerned.

At my local fish store they sold me 100% metronidazole powder and told me to feed it to them in food….Should I use the metronidazole in food?
If yes, should I feed all fish in the tanks infected or just ones with visible signs.

From what I have read (http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/CamallanusTreatment/) on this parasite, metronidazole in food will not treat the tank itself for this parasite….Is this parasite so serious that I need to treat the whole tank(s)?

Please, anyone who can help with treatment suggestions?
 
You can buy it online, if you feed the fish with it in there food, I would treat them all, good luck.
http://www.loaches.com/faq_parasites.html

Not the writer of this information below.
WEIGHT LOSS: INFECTIVE CAUSES
EXPLANATION

Flagellates
Unicellular parasites with one or more "filaments" (flagella). Often associated with whitish and stringy feces.

Tapeworms (Cestodes)
Large intestinal worms, in most cases segmented

Nematodes (roundworms, pinworms, threadworms)
Round worms (in cross-section) ranging from microscopic size to several millimeters long. Capillaria is one of them.

Other intestinal infections
Bacteria (including fish tuberculosis), viruses, other parasites

Skin and Gill parasites (Flukes, Ciliates, Dinoflagellates)
The fish stops eating in the late stages of the disease and the parasites rob nutrients from the fish




Several of these organisms have complex life-cycles which include forms such as eggs or cysts which are not easily attacked by many drugs.

Even if the adults are killed by a first antibiotic treatment, the surviving resistant forms may mature and continue the infective process. This is a factor which can easily lead to improper use of some medications, which in some cases must be given in repeated cycles in order to definitely interrupt the life-cycle of the pathogen.



Several different types of pathogen may be simultaneously present in a diseased fish, and in the absence of accurate laboratory diagnostic criteria, it is preferable to administer carefully chosen drugs that cover both flukes and tapeworms, possibly nematodes also.



Because of this multiplicity of possible causes, a multiplicity of possible solutions obviously exists! What follows is a type of approach that has been used successfully by the Author in case one or more fish in a tank manifest weight loss and/or abnormal feces:



1) EXCLUDE NON-INFECTIVE CAUSES: in case of weight loss alone or with other aspecific symptoms such as color changes, the compatibility of the affected fish with its tankmates should be carefully re-evaluated. In addition, several critical water parameters should be checked immediately (temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates). Even in old and established tanks some unpredictable and undetected event (malfunctioning of a heater or of a filter, unnotified change by the water company of the tapwater chemical parameters, etc.) may occur.

If any abnormality is found, it should be corrected and a period of observation of several days should follow. If no cause of abnormality is found, then:



2) HYPOTHESIZE AN INFECTIVE CAUSE: in this case, the likelihood of generalized infestation of all the fish in the tank is very high, even if only one shows some symptoms. It will therefore be necessary to treat the entire community tank. Severely weakened fish may be moved to a hospital tank for rest and protection, but this is not strictly necessary and may in fact be more stressful to the fish than simply leaving them alone.

Because of the possibility of involvement of different types of pathogens, a broad-spectrum and well tolerated treatment should be chosen in order to break quickly and efficiently the life cycles of the potential pathogens. The goal is to prevent infections of new fishes as well as re-infection of the one originally sick. A simple and generally very effective scheme of treatment is the following:



a) Treat first for flagellate infestation using:



metronidazole, see treatment scheme at the end of this paper. A week later:




B) Treat then for other common intestinal parasites not covered by metronidazole:



Various options exist (choose one only).



Fluke-Tabsä . See treatment scheme at the end of this paper. In the direct experience of the Author, this is one of the most practical and simple choices for occasional use, especially since it is a product commonly available in the US. The following two alternative solutions may however be preferable, because the unknown dosage of the individual components of this product does not allow the user to adjust the quantity given, and properly manage possible toxicity problems.


Flubendazole. See treatment scheme at the end of this paper. This is the treatment preferred by the Author.


Praziquantel (Droncitä ) is a compound available in the US only with a prescription from a veterinarian. See treatment scheme at the end of this paper.


The above-mentioned treatment proposals do not cover the situations when the Discus quits eating because of skin infestations with ciliates or flagellates like Oodinium. If the previous two steps of treatment have failed to produce a response, a temperature increase may be attempted in order to eliminate certain possible protozoan infections of the skin and gills, which sometimes may cause weight loss without any typical skin lesions. See the section on lesions of the skin for more information.



Some Discus owners attempt force-feeding with needless syringes fishes that have quit eating. This procedure is highly stressing for the fish, often ineffective since most of the food ends up being expelled through the gills, clogging them, and most of all does nothing on the primary cause of the lack of appetite. In general, it is to be avoided.
 
I just wanted to add in a side note that with this medicine you need to keep your pH below 7.0 or it will be useless.
I have read the entire thread that the previous member suggested, I didnt see anywhere to buy it...The thread is from 1999.

Yes, thanks I will try my ph is from 7.1 to 6.9 usually.....I hope 7.1 will be ok...This is assuming I can find the drug ....

You can buy it online, if you feed the fish with it in there food, I would treat them all, good luck.
http://www.loaches.com/faq_parasites.html

Not the writer of this information below.
WEIGHT LOSS: INFECTIVE CAUSES
EXPLANATION

Flagellates
Unicellular parasites with one or more "filaments" (flagella). Often associated with whitish and stringy feces.

Tapeworms (Cestodes)
Large intestinal worms, in most cases segmented

Nematodes (roundworms, pinworms, threadworms)
Round worms (in cross-section) ranging from microscopic size to several millimeters long. Capillaria is one of them.

Other intestinal infections
Bacteria (including fish tuberculosis), viruses, other parasites

Skin and Gill parasites (Flukes, Ciliates, Dinoflagellates)
The fish stops eating in the late stages of the disease and the parasites rob nutrients from the fish




Several of these organisms have complex life-cycles which include forms such as eggs or cysts which are not easily attacked by many drugs.

Even if the adults are killed by a first antibiotic treatment, the surviving resistant forms may mature and continue the infective process. This is a factor which can easily lead to improper use of some medications, which in some cases must be given in repeated cycles in order to definitely interrupt the life-cycle of the pathogen.



Several different types of pathogen may be simultaneously present in a diseased fish, and in the absence of accurate laboratory diagnostic criteria, it is preferable to administer carefully chosen drugs that cover both flukes and tapeworms, possibly nematodes also.



Because of this multiplicity of possible causes, a multiplicity of possible solutions obviously exists! What follows is a type of approach that has been used successfully by the Author in case one or more fish in a tank manifest weight loss and/or abnormal feces:



1) EXCLUDE NON-INFECTIVE CAUSES: in case of weight loss alone or with other aspecific symptoms such as color changes, the compatibility of the affected fish with its tankmates should be carefully re-evaluated. In addition, several critical water parameters should be checked immediately (temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates). Even in old and established tanks some unpredictable and undetected event (malfunctioning of a heater or of a filter, unnotified change by the water company of the tapwater chemical parameters, etc.) may occur.

If any abnormality is found, it should be corrected and a period of observation of several days should follow. If no cause of abnormality is found, then:



2) HYPOTHESIZE AN INFECTIVE CAUSE: in this case, the likelihood of generalized infestation of all the fish in the tank is very high, even if only one shows some symptoms. It will therefore be necessary to treat the entire community tank. Severely weakened fish may be moved to a hospital tank for rest and protection, but this is not strictly necessary and may in fact be more stressful to the fish than simply leaving them alone.

Because of the possibility of involvement of different types of pathogens, a broad-spectrum and well tolerated treatment should be chosen in order to break quickly and efficiently the life cycles of the potential pathogens. The goal is to prevent infections of new fishes as well as re-infection of the one originally sick. A simple and generally very effective scheme of treatment is the following:



a) Treat first for flagellate infestation using:



metronidazole, see treatment scheme at the end of this paper. A week later:




B) Treat then for other common intestinal parasites not covered by metronidazole:



Various options exist (choose one only).



Fluke-Tabsä . See treatment scheme at the end of this paper. In the direct experience of the Author, this is one of the most practical and simple choices for occasional use, especially since it is a product commonly available in the US. The following two alternative solutions may however be preferable, because the unknown dosage of the individual components of this product does not allow the user to adjust the quantity given, and properly manage possible toxicity problems.


Flubendazole. See treatment scheme at the end of this paper. This is the treatment preferred by the Author.


Praziquantel (Droncitä ) is a compound available in the US only with a prescription from a veterinarian. See treatment scheme at the end of this paper.


The above-mentioned treatment proposals do not cover the situations when the Discus quits eating because of skin infestations with ciliates or flagellates like Oodinium. If the previous two steps of treatment have failed to produce a response, a temperature increase may be attempted in order to eliminate certain possible protozoan infections of the skin and gills, which sometimes may cause weight loss without any typical skin lesions. See the section on lesions of the skin for more information.



Some Discus owners attempt force-feeding with needless syringes fishes that have quit eating. This procedure is highly stressing for the fish, often ineffective since most of the food ends up being expelled through the gills, clogging them, and most of all does nothing on the primary cause of the lack of appetite. In general, it is to be avoided.
Your quoted material suggests to me that I am not certain what pathogen has infected my fish, I am certain it is camallanus. Can you help me find where I can get levamisole?
 
Its in the link wilder gave, several tiems actually.

make sure your pH is about 6.6. If the pH is above 7 the drug is made unusable.
The important thing to remember is that the drug is only active at a pH lower than 7. I have used it at 6.6 with good results.
Its just a finer point of the med that tends to get missed.
 
Thanks Wilder,
The article you linked to suggested using the injectable form. If I use this to treat the tank water I am concerned about what the 18% solution is suspended in.... The manufacturer does not say, do you know what it would be? My understanding is it would likely be an oil or water based suspension.....Im not sure if either would be a concern in my tank...
 
Sadly don't no, never been able to get hold of the med, i think it would be water.
 
Its in the link wilder gave, several tiems actually.

make sure your pH is about 6.6. If the pH is above 7 the drug is made unusable.
The important thing to remember is that the drug is only active at a pH lower than 7. I have used it at 6.6 with good results.
Its just a finer point of the med that tends to get missed.
Yes thanks, I have read the article many times now. However, I know that a drugs activity does not just disappear at EXACTLY pH 7.0; there would be some kind of drop off, that might be fast or slow... I was hoping someone here might know the exact details. Because, I just realized when I do water changes of 30% my ph goes from 7.0 to 7.4, so if I need to do the HUGE water changes that this levamisole treatment suggests, and multiple doses, I will render the medication ineffective....(and stress my fish)

I am wondering about using the metronidaizole now....I have it in my hands....My angelfish is very "personable", I can easily feed just "her" the metronidiazole in food, I really need to try to save her she is so gorgeous!

hmmm....
Thanks for all you help so far!
 
I think i would leave the injectable stuff alone to complicated, plus you have to know the body weight of the fish.

I will get ttnjfttt for you she good on this type of stuff.
 
I think i would leave the injectable stuff alone to complicated, plus you have to know the body weight of the fish.

I will get ttnjfttt for you she good on this type of stuff.
Thanks so much!

With the injectable stuff, the idea was to use it in the tank water I THINK, not inject the fish...The injectable is just already dissolved...
 
I will try and find it in power form as it easier to use.
 
I will try and find it in power form as it easier to use.
The link you gave has a powder and liquid form, I can get the powder. I am concerned that this powder is only 8% active ingredient(just concerned what the other 92% is); I guess if I am doing water changes in 36 hrs it is not too serious of a concern...
 
Levamisole Phosphate is a sterile solution recommended for the treatment of cattle infected with the following parasites. Each mL of solution contains levamisole phosphate equivalent to 136.5 mg of levamisole hydrochloride.

According to http://www.loaches.com/faq_parasites.html you need to treat with Use 800mg per 10US gallons. So 80 mg per gallon. You have a 29 gallon tank, so you need 2320 mg. Since each ml has 136.5 mg in it, you will need to add 17 ml.

EDIT: A teaspoon has 5 ml in it, so you need a little under 3.5 teaspoons.
 
Dont want to jump in with something that might cost a lot of money, but a vet would be your best option for dealing with meds relating to internal worms.
Just a thought. :)
 

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